cbrew

I have a question, whats the thinking behind the ball valves, I see one on the delivery line and one on the return line. but i did not see one on the suction line,. may it was just out of the picture, is this something you added for servicing purposes or anti thief? THanks,

Sorry for the delay, this is a good write up for homemade regulator including a battery temp sensor.. this is something i may have to do when i have time or when i find in the summer time that conversion is over charging the batteries http://www.amsterdamhouseboats.nl/voltage_regulator.htm

I just glanced over it also, but down on page 11 and 12 iirc has the charts that so the charge curve based on temp. I am assuming this is how the "modern" external units work also. its reading the ambient temp at the regulator not the at the battery. (if i am reading this right) anyways i have come across over control circuits that are completely adjustable with running voltages north of 26 volts. something like that, one could design a control system that will falling the "charge" parameters to the letter.. If you like i can dig them up

Hi Ed, every thing works when the truck is idling in park, its not the unit itself, it has to be in the wiring. I am just going to have to dig into. i was hoping to hear, (oh you are missing this or that) or its this or that The person i emailed back and forth with was very helpful and sent me instructions on how to take everything apart and clean it. and i picked up a bottle of pakbrake lub from my local parts slinger.. Thanks again

Hi all, I have a pakbrake on my 99 with the auto. i know it works and i have used it to ad in warm up on very cold mornings. but i can not seem to get it close while under motion. I am not sure if this is because the lockup is not engaged or is there something else that is keeping the vacuum solenoid from activating. from what i read, its controlled from the circuit that is turned on only when the throttle is at 0. since it will activate while in park at an idle and deactivate when i touch the throttle. I know that part is working, so i am wondering if there is a controller that was connected to the Power train controller that was removed by the PO. (which makes since cause it would keep the TQ locked up during actuation Thoughts?

Thanks, interesting read,. from what i read, the charge level is about where it needs to be at the given air temp. I will keep an eye on things as we move from winter, spring and into summer (which from the article, the engine bay is the last place these batteries should be) maybe by then i will be ready to replace the ECM. of course i found something that the "engineering" type may have fun with http://www.st.com/web/en/resource/technical/document/datasheet/CD00046504.pdf

Its need a little while since i posted an update. so far all is working with the conversion., I do have a question, the Voltmeter on the gauge cluster, does it ready real time voltage or its is driven from the ECM? The Reason i ask is the voltage that is displayed from my scan gauge seems to jump around from 14.1 to 14.5 voltage but the lights and gauge cluster appears to be stable. just right of the 14 volts, I am sure i am over worrying about this, but she is my daily driver. I have also been watching for signs of over charging (excessive heat in the alt, batteries etc). the alt is only every just warm to the touch after my 25 mile commute and the battery's are cool. no signs of venting I would be interested in seeing the chart for tracking battery temp vs charge rate tho... but one thing the strikes me as odd with the battery tray temp sensor is how accurate would that be. with the sensor snapped into the tray but the with the battery sitting above it often with an air gap created by the bottom of the battery and the forming of the sheet metal tray. so is the temp sensor just needing to get the ambient air temp where the battery is sitting?., Thanks again

ok Thanks, looks like i have little to worry about then,

Hey, I have a question and want to make sure i am not over thinking this, I did the conversion a few weeks ago when my regulator in the ECM decided to go crazy and cook my alternator i did the conversion that in the tech article but did come changes because it tried to overcharge (bad reference voltage sampling point) with that fixed, I am now getting 14.4 with a high of 14.5 and a low of 14.3 so here is my question and concern, from what i understand, the ecm would cut the alternator when the grids would cycle. this conversion does not allow this provision. now i do have a circuit designed that will cut the alternator when the grids are energized. currently the voltage will drop to ~12.8 volts at idle when the grids cycle but is this really an issue? I am worried about stressing the diodes and alt fuse needinglessly. what is everyone else doing? I did install a manual alternator kill switch just in case I see an overcharging event again. thanks again truck is a 99 2500

I just joined, I have a ad2 165 that i picked up a little more then a year and half ago, its been running good. the only problem i had was not a pressure drop but a pressure gain, after an email to Jarren Casstevens, he suggested backing the regulator out then all the way back in the resetting the pressure, its been stable again. Now that i just had the regulator fail in the ECM and installed the external conversion, i have to lower the pressure again, (was 13.8 volts now 14.4 volts) i raised the pressure a few pounds to 22 psi from 19 when was the company sold? i know the history between FASS (Son) and AIRDOG (Father). when did the old man sell out?