Ed's5.9

Hello to all, just wanted to post my personal experience with these ball joints. When I got them I couldn’t find much info on them so I figured I would give them a try to adjust a minor camber issue I was having. It hasn't been a positive experience for me but that doesn't mean that it wouldn’t be functional on other makes and models. To keep things straight forward and short I am just going to list Pros and Cons. Pros: Allows up to 1 degree of camber and caster adjustment Cons: In order to adjust the wheel has to be removed and ball joints have to be loosened and then re assembled to check if adjustments are correct. (very time consuming alignment process) Adjustment is made with an Allen key beneath the zero fitting which felt like a real wanky way make adjustments on a heavy duty suspension (I was concerned to really crank on it because it felt like either the Allen key or internals could snap at any moment). I now have 10k Miles on them and they are blown! Conclusion: Lesson learned, Today I will be ordering a new set of Carli Extreme upper Ball Joints to replace the Moogs

do mopar1973man.com members have any discounts towards MADS Electronics components ?

Update: I reached out to 98whitelighning, he had good words to say about Inline performance and so did the staff at Goerend. I dropped off the truck early last month and got it back a couple weeks ago and it is running great! The Goerend components work as good as everyone said they would and the guys at Inline Performance did a great job in putting it all together they where straight forward and provided great communication even though the shop was about 5hrs away from me.They will be highly recommended by me in the future.

Update: Some time has now gone by and still no issues I think I really resolved the issue this time.

Bully dog sold on ebay for $460.00 Shipped !! So I am now that much closer to my new smarty jr touch

Also I got final word from Inovative Diesel, Bullydog is only offering custom tunes on the Fords and there is no confirmation when and if they will be offering this option for dodge in the future.

Once I get the truck back from the shop I'll pull the BD out, post it on ebay with a reserve and see if it sells. It's just a shame that I paid close to $500 for the BD then another $150 for the docking module and there is a good chance that I wont get over $250 for all of it ...

I was thinking the same thing but the only thing that was stopping me before was the fact that I cant seem to find any buyers for the BD and I didn't want to spend on new gauges and on a smarty tuner. But that is now a mute point with the Smarty Touch

Ok spoke to a tech at BD and he advised that they are not building custom tunes for the 5.9 equipped trucks yet but I can still register my tuner for when they do have custom tune support. I am going to touch base with innovative diesel see if they know anything different.

Will do

Well I am on hold with BD tech support now becasue I was going to download the software to my PC as they advised on their website that it will only be free untill 4/3/15 but I coul not find an option for 5.9 Cummins. Also found out that its not actually a software that you down load they actually just register/activate your serial number to allow for custom tuning. Before getting transferred to tech support the cust svc rep did advise that Innovative diesel is the only company offering custom tunes for diesel engines.

Has EFI finally released a tuner for the 04 models ? Opinion noted for Smarty

Found a happy medium im going to go with 305/65/18 save a little money but still look presentable ..lol

Hi everyone, I was one of the uneducated consumers of a Bully Dog triple dog GT tuner, at the time I was new to diesel trucks and just purchased the name that everyone tosses around. Later I found out that for my goals the Bully Dog would just not suit my needs so I unmarried it and now just use it for it's gauges. The reason I am revisiting tuners is because I am in the process of having a transmission built and figured this would be a good time to get a tuner that better suits my mods. I just found out that BullyDog is finally accepting custom tunes and I can actually upgrade to the software that will allow my tuner to accept custom tunes for free and then go to one of their registered local tuners and purchase a custom tune (not sure what tuning prices are yet). Now, in contrast to all of that Smarty has also released their Touch screen display model tuner which has peaked my interest but I wanted to hear what everyone here has to say about all of this. Is it worth the time and money to try out the new Bully Dog Custom tune software? Even though the software is free I’m sure that dyno time and tuning fees will be in the $400-$500 range or should I just move on and go with the Smarty ($935 for the hardware with 10 pre programmed power options and future dyno tuning capabilities)?

Does anyone have some good pictures of a leveled 3rd gen with a 275/70/18 wheel and tire set up? I currently have to buy a new transmission and I also need tires, needless to say I'm on a tight budget. I'm considering downsizing from my 325/65/18's to 275/70/18 for a $250 savings. Any other advice is welcomed as well, thank you.

Mine had been doing it for about 2 years but it was temperamental because I would try to figure out the issue by checking wireing, changed the apps (which had to be changed anyways because I was getting random dead pedal) I swapped out my terminals and ground cables, replaced fuel filter and water seperator, replaced MAP sensor and who knows what else I had changed trying to get that resolved and nothing sometimes it would go away and I thought I got it and then it would come back. I even took it to a local mechanic for insight and of course I could not reproduce the issue so I looked like the crazy guy that hears non exestant issues ... My most recent attempt before replacing COV and FCA was that maybe I was randomly getting bad fuel somewhere or something was gettig clogged so I ran some diesel kleen thought it and it actually got worse and more consistent I think the diesel keen may have cleaned out something that was helping the situation lol. After swapping the parts I drove the truck all day yesterday and it never skipped a beat so hopefully it doesn't come back if it does I'll let u know, otherwise its $177 from Geno's for both and about 30-45min to swap.

Pardon the typos above,I'm responding from my phone.

That would make sense right lol .... Well here are the issues that I was having. When idling in park I was getting some what of a rhythmic pulse where about every 5-6 seconds the idle would raise for a second and then drop back to normal which wasn't that bad just a couple hundred rpm. The bigger issue was while ideling in gear whether it was D or R once in gear if I would accelerate from a stand still it would sputter, clear it self out and go, if I was at a red light while in gear the rhythmic pulse would become more exaggerated to the point that the truck would almost shut off after recouperating from the rpm spikes and then aggressevly fuel it self out of stauling. That was a bit scary because the truck actually would drop idle and then act as if some one pressed the fuel pedal to stop it from shutting off, it actually inched up on me a few times at a red light while I was lightly on the brake getting me a little closer to the car in front of me.

I went ahead and swapped out the FCA and COV, based on the issues that I was having it was probably just the FCA that was bad but I already had the COV so why not... Just in case anyone decides to do this in the future here are a few tips. To clean the area I used a nylon brush to knock off any debris/crud on the CP3 surface, hit it with compressed air, Sprayed it down with some CRC QD contact cleaner (safer than part cleaner on electrical components), hit it with air again and removed the FCA I’m really paranoid when it comes to my CP3 pump so instead of greasing the rubber seals on the new FCA I just rubbed a little diesel on the seals with my fingers and gradually tightened all 3 screws in sequence until FCA was completely flush against CP3 and then torque to spec. Then I moved to the COV only thing I can recommend here is to loosen COV and go about 3 full turns and with a nylon brush remove any crud around the threaded area, the CP3 has a slight chamfer/bevel on the surface of the COV port that seems to catch and bake crud on there that starts to come lose once you start to remove the COV, again I am paranoid when it comes to my CP3 so I do not recommend compressed air at this point just a nylon brush and maybe some good ol lung powered air to clear what the brush might leave behind. Once area is clean continue to remove COV, use caution so that you don’t knock anything into the port once the COV comes out. Keep replacement COV close by so you can minimize the exposed time of the port. Now tighten the COV, it will come to a hard stop once it’s in all the way, once it reached this point I gave it a snug and that’s it. My idle issues are now gone and got no leaks after the install.

Spoke to Todd and he explained that it is as straight as it seems, in addition he mentioned that the COV rarely fails and when it does the symptoms are that the engine will run and shut down shortly after starting it.

Sounds good, thank you!

Has anyone here had any work done by inline performance out of Bushnell, Florida ?

I will give that a try tomorrow, thanks!

Hello to all, I have been having some idle issues for a while now and it has started to get worse so I ordered the FCA (fuel control actuator) and COV. everything came in from Geno's including instructions for the FCA, but I did not receive anything regarding the COV. I have done some searching online and cant find anything on the removal/install process all I got was info and specs about the COV. The removal looks pretty straight forward but my concern is will I need any additional gaskets or seals to install the new COV and what are the torque specs for it. Hope Some one can help, thank you all for your time.

hey, when you got skills you got skills !! That really sucks though not only breaking down but doing so 600 mi from home and towing ... I'm sure it costed you twice as much to get you out of that jam than what it would have cost to go billet when you had the chance.