Austin

I am very sorry for the slow response, I am in the process of moving and have a whole lot going on. Yes, the torque converter was locking at speeds in the 45-55 range, and it still does it in that range VERY intermittently. I am chasing more then one issue, however, and can't figure out if they are related or separate. I put Vulcan's two filter system on the truck, as well as half inch lines, and every morning I am having to prime the fuel system before starting. Even when I do that, however, I pull out of the driveway and immediately get a dead pedal. I don't get white smoke from tailpipe, but instead slowly increase speed until it finally gets enough speed to want to shift, and will finally respond as normal. I get a 216 code following this. For the rest of the day, I will not have any other issues, (except for the very occasional dead pedal in the 45-55 mph range) but again, because of this issue with start up at the beginning of the day, I'm hard pressed to blame it on the alternator APPS etc. I can't find any leaks in the fuel system, and am not willing to tighten any lines tighter then they already are, as they are torqued quite tight and don't want to crush washers, etc. Not sure where to go from here. The VP44 is 9 months old, as is the raptor lift pump. The filters are just a few weeks old. I did take out the stock filter bowl altogether, the heating element wouldn't send a signal to prevent normal drive conditions because its not plugged in, would it? Any other help is always greatly appreciated.

Hey all, I have found that the deeper I delve into this site and others I learn just enough to get me into trouble, and then dig even deeper to find a fix. My question is, what problems might you suspect if you: A) let batteries die, or B) took APPS off to test, and then did not do a reset of the APPS? I ask because I have done both without resetting, and had started getting issues related to one of our favorites: Tourque converter lockup. I have done the reset now and SEEM to have solved the issue... At least for now, we will see if it comes back. As far as the alternator, I do not currently have a voltmeter in the proper range to test for AC noise. So I took alternator to get bench checked and it checked "good" with an AC ripple of .45V. I asked them to test two new alternators out of the box with similar readings in the .4V range. I read a good article here that said the tester's internal components can provide some of that effect as well so I'm not yet convinced mine is bad as I have not been able to test it as recommended here. Any and all advice/ideas are more then welcome. I come back to this site time and time again for the superb articles and experts weighing in with their two cents. Thank you all! Austin

Update: went ahead and returned that box as defective and put another one in and it seems to be doing much better so far. Also, the collar slid right on with no problems so maybe I should have taken that as a sign and returned it then and there. Thanks for everyone's help.

Excuse my ignorance, but what is a power valve?

Well I managed to get the collar on while still in the truck. I had to file down the splines slightly and then give it some love with the hammer, but it finally seated. this may be a dumb question but following the install it is easier to turn to the left then turning right. Is there an adjustment that would fix this?

yes I believe I have the right box, I didn't get an aftermarket box or anything... Everything else fit perfectly, is that alteration the only one you have to make for that box? I also filed down any imperfections I found and still no-go. I can't purchase just a collar, I'd have to get the whole column for around $150. Not sure it's worth it to go that route.

That's how I have felt about the situation! Ha. I've noticed a burr on the flat section of the collar that may be enough to catch. I'll file that down and see if I can get it on from there. If not I suppose my next move is taking it back out and perhaps returning it for another? The splines seem ok on the box side but that's just a quick inspection. My other thought is replacing the collar. Is that difficult and/or not recommended?

Yes the bolt is out, and I've given it pretty solid taps. Anything harder and I feared damaging the splines.

Hello all, I purchased a reman gearbox today and was very close to completion when I ran into a problem. The input collar that comes down from the telescoping end will not slide over the splines on the gearbox. I line the flat edge up with the corresponding side, wiggle down, and it only goes down about an 1/8 inch or so and sticks. I tried expanding the collar with a screwdriver thinking it was too tight from the previous box, but that doesn't seem to work either. I've cleaned up the splines really well and sprayed a bit of WD-40 as well with no luck. I have since stepped away for the night as the frustration began to build. Am I forgetting something simple here? when I slid the collar back off the original, it went right back with no issues, so I don't see why it would be so tight. All help is greatly appreciated!! Austin

Awesome thanks so much for the info guys. I know I can always count on this forum.

Hey guys, I've looked around for a little bit on this and haven't found too much so I was curious what exactly the advantage is of switching to a draw straw. I've looked at the Vulcan products and they seem fairly priced and easy to do, just wondering if it is worth it, or what the main purpose is to make this move. Thanks! Austin

Hey all, I apologize for the slow response, and truly appreciate the responses. I submitted this during the site upgrade, and had issues logging on for a few days, so I chased down the problem and forgot to update you all ( very sorry.) I took a deep breath, took a fresh take on the problem, and started simply with the issue. I cleaned the connections to the lift pump, and managed to get my gauge to show in the cab "properly." I don't doubt that it is beginning to fail, but for the time being it is showing good pressure there. I believe it is an intermittent problem with the gauge. (it is mechanical.) I also took my time checking voltage to the lift pump, and the 12V returns after about 30 seconds and stays there. I guess I would get nervous when I saw zero and pulled the voltmeter and shut down the truck too quickly to see that. Thank you all for your help and advice!! Austin

Hello All, I'm new to the forum, but have used this sites detailed articles quite extensively to learn more about my truck, and to troubleshoot my issues. (A quick thank you to any and all who have contributed to the site, as it is very well put together.) Having said all that, I seem to have run out of road on my own, and need to ask a question for the sake of clarity and specificity to my problem. The truck is an '01 2500 automatic with about 250,00 on the odometer. To go all the way back to my initial issue, I started getting dead pedal symptoms with a P0216 code, and fluctuating fuel pressure (sometimes 15PSI, sometimes about 7PSI depending on time of day and significant drop in pressure even on light acceleration) So decided to replace the VP44 and lift pump. I got a new one from BlueChip Diesel and replaced it this weekend along with a new Airdog FRRP-100 lift pump. I test ran the truck around the block, maybe a five minute drive and everything seemed great. I started with 15 PSI and it dropped maybe 1-2 PSI with hard acceleration. The next morning, jumped in to run errands and started at 10 PSI. I was concerned, but thought maybe it takes a minute to warm up (possibly a very dumb way to look at it, feel free to correct me.) I went about two miles to the hardware store and was very slowly losing pressure. I came out of the store, started and had 5 PSI that dropped a little more. I thought maybe I had a leak, but none were found, I jiggled wire harnesses just for good measure with no increase. I decided to re-prime the filter bowl and when I went to bump the starter, I did not hear the lift pump start at all. I unplugged the wire harness and cleaned it and seated it firmly, and got it to run again. The bowl primed and I started the truck again with 5 PSI, so I limped it the 2 miles home. I have checked voltage to the lift pump (red wire going into lift pump) and get just under 12 volts when I just bump the starter. However, when I start the truck, it starts at about 10 volts and within a few seconds there is no voltage at that wire. Is that normal? I read there is no relay to the lift pump, so that wire should stay at 12 volts the entire time, Correct? The truck does not die, it stays at about 4 PSI, so its getting power from somewhere. I will also mention that there is a bit of a wiring nightmare under the hood. The previous owner added all the gauges himself and it isn't pretty, as well as several aftermarket stereo upgrades that he roughly stripped before he sold it to me. I've already lost the EGT gauge since taking ownership, so I'm somewhat suspect of the gauge itself. It's also in a location that I haven't seen. When looking at other owners pictures of their injection pumps, I've noticed no one has the gauge setup like mine. He added a fitting to the banjo fitting of the pressure line going into the injection pump with a hose running up to a sensor. Is this a typical setup? The only thing I did not change was the filter, because the plastic cap to the bowl is stripped badly. I was able to get it off once when I first bought the truck about six months ago, and thought I didn't tighten it down very much for this reason, but am struggling mightily getting it off. I did take the line loose after the filter bowl to see if it was plugged up, and I had significant flow but that is just an eye judgement. I feel like it is enough to say it's not plugged but I could be wrong. Any and all thoughts and guidance is very much appreciated! Thank you! Austin