jordan

that would be nice if it was all it needed but the spiders pretty much destroyed themselves i found 1/4" chunks of spider gear in the bottom of the diff luckily they didn't get into the pinion gear and chew that as-well i will post a pic of the spiders when i pull the unit apart

thanks for the info Bill, i'm leaning toward the OEM style rebuild kit, seems like it'll be easier to get parts for if something wears out again and there's more info on setting up OEM style clutch sets... this is the kit i was looking at ( http://www.iwerearendsonly.com/product_details.php?id=18 ) buddy said it's $350.00 Canadian but they're out of B.C so add another $50 for shipping to Ontario... does it seem like a good price for a full rebuild kit ?

sounds easy enough, what about the "all steel" clutch sets they sell though is there any benefit? i've been doing some reading and from what i've heard steel last longer then steel/fiber and offers a little more friction to lock up a little tighter... have you ever used or heard of just steel clutches ?

hey guys been a while since i've posted anything. i've still been working on the beast and have made it to the back axle that clearly needs the power lock rebuilt (spider gears are in really ruff shape and clutches are pretty well shot) i would love to hear some idea's on how i should set this thing up i.e steel clutches or fiber/steel ? i hear some people talking about using dana 80 clutch kit or dana 70hd clutch kits instead of OEM ? as-well as clutch set up washer/clutch plate arrangement. if anyone has any experience or input it would be much appreciated!! if i had the $ i'd go for an arb but my pockets are a little light at the moment

exhaust port is 1.125" wide by 1.625" tall (1 1/8" X 1 5/8"... 28mm X 41mm) saw this post a while ago and finally got some time to pull the head, doing a head gasket... if you need anything else measured let me know now before i throw it back together

Amen to that! i miss driving her, at least it'll have that new truck feel again

finally started the old girl last week after she slept for 4 months took a video too ;) she sounds a little ruff but it was really cold and i didn't use the grids (hot wired for time being) didn't let it warm up either i got no rad at the moment and waste gate valve isn't installed yet so not much turbo whistle either

does anyone have the original cummin's report on mixing motor oil and diesel, I've heard from some people 20% which sounds like way too much and others say you can't add any at all of which is a lie. I'd really like to read the original cummin's write up on this subject

i love knowing that our 1st gens can hit those types of numbers

do you happen to know what type of MPG's Relentless70 gets with his AFC set like that with average driving conditions my mistake on the starwheel as well

not to be picky but i measure my tune by how many times i turn the fuel screw, AFC, and start wheel. we are talking about the 1st gen VE pumps here after all :P btw i got my fuel screw turned in 1.5 turns, smoke screw (afc) bottomed and start wheel cranked downward 6 or 7 turns could still use a little more fuel i'm sure

is your pump turned up or tweaked in anyway?

lol like they say "what ever floats your boat"

thank's for the awesome right up ISX that's exactly what i was hoping to find and thank you Mopar1973Man for the handy link i know i had seen it somewhere before but after an hr of looking (at other threads) i gave up. I found some interesting 2nd gen threads though lmao

so i work at a gas station just down the road from me, i always talk to my costumers that drive dodge cummins vehicles! there's one lady that come's in almost everyday day, she has a 96 2500 ext. cab needless to say it's not the happiest sounding 12 valve i've ever heard.... i asked her if she had ever had her valve lash checked ? she looked at me like i was talking about some sort of space shuttle part lmao i then found out the truck has 350,000 km on it (still a baby) but probably needs a valve adjustment! regardless she told me that i should come adjust them for her and that i should give her my # so i did. after talking with her i soon found out she doesn't really care about her valve lash ;) but it still needs to be done. now i know ISX is the 12 valve p7100 king here so i was hoping ISX or someone could tell me if the valve lash procedure is the same for the (94-98.5) as it is for the (89-93) motors, and if there was a write up done with a tool list and a "how to" adjust valve lash on a p-pumped 12 valve, i want to make sure i get it the first time!! thanks for any help in advance and hope ya guys get a kick out this, i sure did yet another reason to love a cummins 12 valve!!!! i know i shouldn't say it but i'm going to anyways cuz we all know she'd rather be cummin' then strokin'

i ended up using my stock turbo (8 blade H1C, intercooled model) and throwing a 12cm housing on it i'm still in the middle of making the wastegaste (no way in hell i'm pay $300 for something i can make) i still have the turbo it's got the big housing on it now but the compressor wheel is the 7 blade model and smaller non-intercooled copressor housing---update---got some different angles of the turbo and a couple pics of the exhaust in the making not everything is seated in place yet but it's getting close. and for those with a good eye yes that is a 2001 gmc cab and yes i do have about 150 pics of the build and if Mike doesn't mind i'd be more then happy to upload them for you guys with a write up of course

your officially my first subscriber! thank you you'll also be glad to know i got some pictures the wastegate flapper and housing still has to be made along with it's plumbing but that's where she's going to sit, unfortunately i can't do a full 7" turbo back, at least there's only 4' of flex pipe lol

so i spent the better part of today looking around town trying to find a steering u-joint to connect to my steering box (i had to cut mine to get it off). after about 45min on google i found a place called woodward steering, they sell steering adapters and u-joint's with various size configurations. I'm not sure if they're DOT approved or not ? also according to these guys a "mustang power rack" shares the same (.735" x 36) spline size. just a little FYI to save you guys some trouble who may have run into the same problem. Woodward Steering http://www.woodwardsteering.com/images/steering%20universal%20joints.pdf found another company called Borgeson they carry the original OEM parts for our 1st gen's Borgeson http://www.streetperformance.com/speedGateV2/results/?yearID=1992&makeID=40&modelID=3734&implementation=borgeson

you may want to take a look at the bosch VE pump manual it explains a lot http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=212 there's also a very nice flow chart on page 7 showing other pump compatibilities and capabilities, i for example am going to put a p7100 injection pump on my 92 once my VE pump dies.

i still have the mechanical lift pump, i was looking at the FASS fuel pump/filter setup they have. probably going to buy it once my pump starts to go, 13psi is a bit more then the factory 6psi assuming that's the factory pressure. still a little confused about weather or not that pressure increase affects the amount of fuel injected (per-injection) or if it just over works the seals ? just found this really nice link http://mebonty.monobasin.net/vepump.html it has a very interesting segment in this section near the bottom titled "Cold-Start Device - CSD (Automatic)"

o ya that does help i downloaded that file when i first joined!! that's what i've been looking threw to get my current information from. just have to look threw and find the article that explain what the pump pressure does not so much how to change it. got my homework cut out for me at least

hmmmm that doesn't sound like it'd be fun i'll have to look into this some more and find out exactly how the (low) internal pump pressure affects the (high) pressure injection side of the pump i'll try to post some good links if i can find some!

i got some new info on what i'm doing with my set up, i took my original H1C and put the 12cm housing off the extra turbo on it (i think it was actually a 4bt it came off) i'm going to make a external wastegate to bolt in between it and the manifold. the wastegate and turbo are going to feed a HX40w with what i think has a 16cm housing.... this link should get you close to where the old one was going to send you as-well seeing as how it no longer works http://www.holset.co.uk/mainsite/files/4_4_3-Reference Sheets.php i got some pictures of the setup now, just not bolted on the truck yet here they are

i'll have to take a look! thanks for pointing me in the right direction, now let's hope someone actually makes such a thing! ---- UPDATE ---- so it appears that half of all first gen owners have speedo problems lmao! i found what i think i'm looking for after digging around on the 1st gen fourm. what it looks like is that you only need need the 5v, the ground, and the signal going to the cluster there shouldn't be any need to use the PCM after a little splice and dice here's the link that explains what goes where and what the wires should be http://www.1stgen.org/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=10184 here's another handy site i found while poking around http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm#gm ratio adapter

i know what your talking about that's not the adjustment i mean though i was just reading threw the bosch pump manual (again lol) and noticed this pressure control valve and overflow restriction. basically it's saying it controls the pressure that the vain pump makes before the high pressure pump does it's thing, they called it the "internal pump pressure" page 15 in the pdf repair file explains it. i'm pretty sure i downloaded it off here (which is very helpful i must say! thank you) i have a hunch it'd be something kinda like increasing fuel inlet pressure if you had an adjustable fuel pump. i have no idea what the outcome would be if the inlet pressure was raised though:shrug: