leathermaneod

I honestly don't know if the airtex from Rock Auto is the same or not, but I would doubt it. If you don't have the original to know what voltage you need, I would guess you would just set it as close to .5v as possible and see if you have issues. You should be able to tell with your Edge wether it is throttling when it shouldn't be or not. If I were in your shoes, I think I would just go with the Timbo. Thanks for jumping in Mike! Honestly, I think if I had it to do over, I would go with the Timbo over the Wells just for simplicity sake. I do like to get away from electronics when I can. Someone on another forum, I wont mention names here, talked me into the Wells. It wasn't exactly bad advice, but had I known what I know now, I think I would do things differently and get the Timbo. If you remember Mike, you and I had a phone conversation about this. Depending how long my current Wells lasts, I may switch to the Timbo when it dies and give the Wells to you to cut open, assuming you would want it.

Thanks for the info and for their contact info! I'd kinda hate to waste his time though, because its not something I'll be doing anytime soon and, much as I'd like to, I wouldn't go through him just because of having to ship the head that far. For now I'll just try to learn what I can online

Yes, it is Wells Vehicle Electronics. If you don't have autozones, you may be able to order one online from them, although then you wouldn't have the convenience of just taking it to the store to swap out for warranty issues. Also, not sure how you are checking the voltage, but when you do, it should be at or below the voltage on the sticker on the back of the sensor.

No problem btw, how do you tag people in a post like that?

I haven't heard of any from Napa, but guys talk about the Wells version that is sold by autozone under the name Duralast. I have one. They have a lifetime warranty and are operated magneticly so there are no contacts to wear out. Tricky thing with them is having to set it to the correct voltage. They are also more expensive than the Timbo. The benefits are that it is non contact, so should in theory, last longer and it has a lifetime warranty. Downside is that it costs more and takes more work to install and set properly. If you decide to go with wells, let us know and I can give you some tips on getting it set right.

I really appreciate the input guys, but getting another head just isn't an option right now. That's why I was asking for suggestions on the next best thing. If anything I'll just tack a weld spot on there to be 100% sure it can't come off next time I go home. But I'm pretty sure the loctite and lock nut are gona do the job until I can weld it and then eventually get another head. When I do get another head I wanna be in a position to do the others things I want to get done at the same time. For example, head studs and injectors. I don't even know enough about heads to know if I should get fire rings or o rings or valve seats or anything...I don't even know the difference between fire and o rings....id love to learn though, hint hint lol I have a lot to learn before i start looking for a used head. I need to know what to look for and how much to pay and what all to get done to it before putting it on my engine. Looks like I could just get a new head from dap too....

Lol I know I've been thinking that too. Although if the loctite 272 paperwork is to be believed, it may take up to 600* and tools to get the loctite to break free anyway.... Agreed, I just have to wait and see if I can get enough threads to really do any good. I think 2 threads max is probably gona be all I have to pinch or punch. Hopefully I can pinch because I'm a little leary of banging around in there, dont wanna risk breaking anything else or bend the plenum plate. Too bad its so difficult to weld cast Iron.

I'm really starting to wonder if I'm just worrying too much about this though. I mean, aren't there plenty of other places in an engine where it is just as critical, if not more, for a nut to not come off? Is there really any reason to think that loctite, plus the lock nut, shouldn't hold up? Only thing I can think that would hurt the loctite is the grid heater since its right there, but its rated for 450*....

One of the valves/valve seats is probably messed up now already because when that piece broke off it got stuck in a valve according to the PO. The way it was before, the way the shop did it, the nut wasnt event totally on the shaft, and idk how they had it held on but it wasn't very had to get off. I needed a wrench, but It wasnt very hard. Maybe it really doesnt take that much to hold it on...but yes I can make it so that some of the threads show. Just not too much or the stud won't be long enough to get a nut on the top side to hold the horn on. I'm thinking it could only go on a thread or two past flush.... How would you deform the threads? There not much room to work down in there. I also have a top lock nut that I will be using in addition to the loctite 272 with Klean and Prime. I was thinking of tacking a weld on there to keep the nut from coming off. That might me easier than deforming the threads. Only issue is, I don't have a welder where I live, so Id have to wait till I go home in July. I was hoping this loctite should be good enough that, between that and the top lock nut, I wouldn't have to worry anymore. Do you think I should put a little spot weld on there when I can?

That's definitely a very good possibility notlimah. That wasn't my issue originally, because I made sure to clean everything off, and then it would make a puddle just sitting idling, but toward the end when it just seemed to be weeping, that could have been the cause. That would explain why it eventually dried up. The annoying thing with diesel is how it creeps because of how oily it is. Makes it really hard to track things down like this. Hot water helps wash all the residue away though one other thing to add, don't get frustrated and put a thread sealer on the nut that threads into the head. Back when I had a local shop do some work on my truck they tried to do that and told me it was perfectly fine and there was nothing else they could do This is a very bad idea because, if I'm not mistaken, fuel can get into the oil if the line isn't sealing to the delivery tube. That why the O ring is on the tube, to prevent fuel from getting out and down into the crankcase. Even if fuel can't get into the oil, it's still bad to have a leak there because you won't be getting all the pressure from the injection pump and so your injectors won't operate as efficiently. The threads on that nut are not meant to seal anything, but rather only to put pressure on the line and delivery tube to press the mating surfaces together.

Yeah it is what it is I guess. I always find myself in situations like this lol I've been learning to be patient with this truck. I normally don't mind waiting for stuff too much, but I really get annoyed when they tell me it will for sure be there at a certain time and then it's not. No explanation, it's just not. I though about just not using it, but I really don't want to have to worry about this nut coming off so I wanna do all I can to keep it on there. This is it btw, for anyone who isnt sure what I'm talking about. Not sure if a nut that size could fit through a valve or not, but I sure don't wanna find out!

I had very similar issues with having leaks at the head. Even after all new delivery tubes, O rings, lines, still had issues. Finally, fixed it by cleaning up the mating surfaces of the delivery tube and injector lines with scotch brite, then cleaning them with brake cleaner and compressed air, then very carefully tightening each end a little at a time. You have to make sure you get the line perfectly seated, then hand tighten the nut, then wiggle the line and make sure its seated. I had to take the two lines I was having trouble with, out of the blue hold downs so I could move them around enough to get them seated. The torque on those nuts is 35 ft lbs btw. I would get yourself a crows foot line wrench in either 3/4 or 19mm, whichever fits better on your injector line nuts. Even after all that, I still had to snug them a little past the 35 ft lbs. They still seemed a little weepy after that, but I just let it go and they stopped. Also, I would make sure the engine is cold when you first do this.

Well this is really frustrating . So I ordered that Klean an Prime stuff from Napa on the 15th. They told me it was coming from Boston and would be here this morning, the 18th. I went in to pick it up and, of course, not there yet, and it won't be until Tuesday. I was planning to use it and get that nut put on this morning, then give it 24hrs before putting everything back together and starting the truck. Looks like now I'll have to wait till Wednesday to be totally done.

Thanks. That's what I did then. Just a very light filing.

Hey guys, so ive got things apart and it seems that when I drove out the seal retainer, the locking ring gouged the seal retainer. I don't think it matters much, but I wanted to get some more opinions before I put it back together Ahould I file those off or anything? Or just leave them be?

Thanks hag! Any idea how your supposed to use the activator? As in leave it wet when applying the loctite, or does it dry right away? I can't pick it up till tomorrow morning and I don't want to have any questions when trying to get things back together. I worked last night so I have off today and I wanna get everything done except for re installing the intake horn. Gota wait to do that tomorrow morning after I get the activator from Napa. I figured I should give that stuff 24hrs to dry so that puts me at Sunday morning before I can start it.

You mentioning the color makes me wonder why mine was so sparkly when I checked. Especially since the fluid is new. I wonder if it could be wear from the new input shaft bearing....

Roflol it is weird though how some things like that seem to leave residue and others don't. Like I just bough some new brake cleaner, CRC brand, and I hate it because it doesn't evaporate real fast like the autozone brand does. Btw I decided to get that activator stuff because I don't want to take any chances on that nut coming off and getting sucked into the engine. I'm not sure if it would fit though a valve or not, but I don't wanna find out.

Gotcha! Yeah I kinda figured at $14.50 for a 4.5 oz can it seems like a scam. Although I did see a chart for the stuff that talks about active and inactive metals and that you need the activator when both items are inactive metals. And zinc is one of the inactive metals and I assume that's what my parts are plated with....but I'm not sure I want this to hold as well as it could because it says it could take tools and up to 600° to get it apart.

lol why starting fluid and not brake cleaner?

Hint one more question on the loctite. Just got the 272 stuff in the mail. I was reading the package and it says to use Loctite Klean an Prime Activator. I've never heard of that before. Do you guys think it's really necessary for this?? Or will I be ok just making sure the threads are clean before applying?

I bought it on eBay because it had free shipping and my local Cummins place wanted $10 for freight, but it should be a Cummins part. So, if it comes with instructions, I'll follow them. Thanks!

Got another question about my upcoming job. I've been reading everything i can about the vacuum pump reseal and some guys are saying to keep the shaft seal dry, and others are saying to lube everything. I always think it's best to lube the seals, but I've been wrong before. Is there a need to keep any of the seals dry when rebuilding the vac pump?

Yes that would be ideal. Fortunately though, I don't take my intake horn off very much, and even so, this nut should be a one time thing. It doesn't have to be removed every time. Only way you would need to remove it is if the stud had to come out.

Thanks for All the input guys! Only issue with the top lock nut is I can't screw the nut on very far, but hopefully I can get enough for it to bite.