leathermaneod

I'll take a pic for you when I have it apart this weekend. I don't remember for sure if it would work, but your idea definitely sounds like a good one. Only problem for me is, I don't have a welder where I live right now. I just picked up one of those top lock nuts though and I'm about to order some loctite 272 to take care of it for now. I always wanted to just tack weld a spot on the nut so it couldn't separate, but again the problem of not having a welder. If i every have things apart while I'm at my parents or in-laws, or when I'm out of the Army, I'll try your idea.

Cool. Thank you guys very much this was super helpful! Now I won't have to worry about that darn thing anymore. Only bad thing left is that I have to keep it from spinning while tightening the nut down on the other end outside of the horn. I don't think there's any way to prevent that though.

Is a deforming lock nut removable? Any recomendations on a specific loc tite to use?

Thanks for the reply! Do you think the regular red hi temp loctite is good or is there something better out there I could use? Not sure if the hi temp red is as strong as the regular red? What is a thread deforming lock nut? Something I could find at a Fastenal?

Hey all, just looking for some ideas here. My truck has one of the cast iron eyelets, the ones on the head that the intake horn bolts screw into, broken off. It hasn't been a big deal because I have an aftermarket horn that uses studs and nuts instead of bolts. So I just have a nut on the other end, inside the intake plenum, with loctite to make sure it doesn't come off and get sucked in. I am about to take the intake horn off again to replace my powesteering pump and reseal my vacuum pump and I was wondering if I would be better off with a lock nut and loctite just as an extra safety to make sure that nut doesn't come off, but I'm not sure if that would be safe either because I'm not sure if the nylon ring could get sucked or fall out. I'm also concerned about the heat from the grid heater weakening the loctite or melting the nylon in a locknut. What do you all think? What would you do? I know the right answer is replace the head, but that's just not an option right now, so what's the next best thing?

Is 206° really that hot? Especially if towing that much? I have no idea just trying to learn what's acceptable....

Sounds good thanks!

Those of you who replaced your PS pump, did you have to swap the bolts that go through the reservoir from the old on to the new one? if so did they require any kind of sealant? Also, does anyone know if there is supposed to be one of those little O rings on the high pressure line where it comes out of the reservoir? If so, has anyone found a source for those O rings, or do you just use an O ring of about the same size?

Thank you! I was actually just reading your write up on this. Isn't there a support bracket to the side of the block somewhere? Nvm I see it now. That bracket is back at the ps pump. Doesn't look like it would be sealed either.

Thanks for all the help and tips guys! I think for $50 I'm just going to go with the rebuilt unit. I'm having a hard time telling exactly what part of the pump the leak is from, other than that it's right at the thin seam where, I believe, the reservoir attaches to the pump. Does anyone know if the support bracket for the vac pump that bolts to the block has an oil seal under it? It looked at little wet around that, but I wasn't sure if that was just splash or if it was oil from inside?

UPDATE! I went and pressure washed everything real good. The fluid is definitely coming from somewhere on the PS pump. Drip hangs from the seam, and it is wet up the side right around the seam. So looks like I'll be putting on a new one when I reseal the vac pump next weekend. Oh well, at least this was semi good timing. Any recommendations on a good replacement? I saw Geno's has one for $185. I'm gona call AutoZone as well and see what they say too. UPDATE 2! Just called AutoZone, they have one for $50 with a $50 core. Lifetime warranty, remanufactured by AutoZone. Looks like I'll be going with that one unless someone tells me I shouldn't.

Hi all, Well I mentioned in my thread about injectors that it was finally time to re seal my vac pump because it had started really leaking. Seems I was wrong about the source of these new, and very sudden large puddles. Its PS fluid, and I can't figure out why, or where its coming from. Heres whats happened lately. Flushed PS fluid a couple months ago. Next, flushed fluid again to replace hydrobooster. At this point I was leaving drips, not puddles, from all the residual PS fluid all over the place from the two flushes. Next, I washed the underside of the truck to make sure I wasn't having major oil leaks. I went about a week seeing only a drip or two and sometimes nothing on the ground. All of a sudden I have large, very wet spots on the ground after sitting just a few hours. I thought it was the vac pump finally letting loose, but today I noticed that the fluid looked really light in color for engine oil. I got under to look and everything is a mess of course, but I can tell it is definitely my nice clean ps fluid, mixed with a little oil. The strangest thing is, everything is SOAKED, and even having not run the truck since yesterday afternoon, its still dripping every few minutes! There is literally fluid laying on the asphalt that hasn't soaked in yet, thats how fast its still leaking. Other weird thing is, the reservoir isn't really low Where could this fluid be coming from? It definitely does not seem to be coming from any of the lines on the back of the PS pump. However, there are drips hanging off the bottom seam of the PS pump, it looks wet in between the PS pump and vac pump, but that could be oil. There is also PS fluid all over the top of the gear box which wasn't leaking much, if at all before. I do have a new return line from the gear box to the PS pump though, but even if that new line were loose(no i didnt check yet) that couldn't be the cause, because how would fluid get up and back to the bottom of the PS pump? Could the PS pump be leaking from where the shaft that drives it comes out? Is it re sealable or does it need to be replaced? I'm planning to go to the carwash later and spray it off and then watch for leaks, but any thoughts in the meantime? I have my vac pump reseal kit on the way and Id like to tackle that next weekend. Just trying to figure out if i should be ordering a new PS pump for the same time.... Thanks in advance for any and all help!

Yeah I got one on eBay for $17.50. Local cummins service center wanted $16, plus $10 for freight since they had to order it. No the price isn't stoping me, more just the time right now. Gota try and get some more use out of this truck before putting more into it. Ive spent so much in the last year and a half its not funny. When I bought it I figured, "it has a cummins, 248K is nothing". I didn't realize all the other odds and ends that come up on a vehicle with that many miles. Plus my OCD over little things hasn't helped. Then my poor decision to get a shop to do some work on it instead of tackling it myself. What a fiasco that was. Anyway its been a learning experience. I get carried away dreaming about the next mod, injectors in this case, but in reality I don't "need" them right now, and I need to save some $ too lol. I plan to do them ASAP, just not sure exactly how soon that will be.

well now it looks like I'm finally gona have to tackle my vacuum pump instead of getting new injectors lol. Starting to leave a really good puddle. I'm just hoping the timing case to block gasket isn't part of the problem.

That makes way more sense now! Thank you!

I don't disagree with bench bleeding before install, but to me it's worth a little extra $ to get the new line and not have to fiddle with removing and attaching new master and slave cylinders to the line. If you get the whole setup, all you gota do is hang it vertically, do a few good squeezes on the slave with the reservoir cap off to make sure there's no air, and your good to go. Then if you got the setup from autozone, and you do have issues after the install, you've got a bleeder screw to work with. No more taking it off the truck to bench bleed at that point. Just my opinion of course

I appreciate the tips! I was playing around in the 5x range on the last tank before settling on 5x2. It seemed to smoke quite a bit above 5x2, that's why I went lower on this tank. So far 4x4 seems fairly clean and spools decently quick. I don't go above 10psi of boost much in my daily driving. I don't even get to 10 psi that much...I think I really need a cleaner injector what at is the purpose of the comp limiting fuel below stock levels?

Thanks again for all the help and advice guys! I will most likely be going with DAP when I get the funds for these. Gota do some saving up because I'm already planning on the new steering setup from synergy when it come out in August also incase anyone was wondering, I filled up this afternoon and I got 18.26 on the tank with the comp on 5x2. This tank I'm testing out 4x4.

How is your mileage? Is that with your quad and he351 turbo?

Thanks for that link Mike, great info there! I guess I will be giving dap and Vulcan a call to compare prices and recomendations sometime in the near future. TFaoro, on the set in your link, it asks if you want new bodies or not, would you get them built with new bodies?

What is big vs small though? I mean I've seen the 7x.012 for example, but is that big or small? Will dap or Vulcan test and match them for you when you buy them?

Thanks for the input guys! Keep it coming! I'm really wondering if my issue is mostly quality of the injectors. If I look at dap, how many hole should I look for and what size hole?

Hey guys, so I've had my edge comp for a little while now and I'm starting to experiment with settings for fuel mileage. I also have 75hp injectors. On 3x5 I got 17.5 over the course of a week. Then I tried 5x2 because of what Mike said in the past about 5x5 being best, but I had to use 5x2 to keep smoke in check. I will be filling up today, but so far it looks like I got right about the same for mileage. Shouldn't I have gotten better? My route and driving style didn't change.... I also read some really old threads on other forums that were talking about unplugging the wire tap to get less fuel and more timing at the higher levels. Is this something I should try? Anyone with a similar setup to mine have any recomendations? I should also add that I'm hoping to get some new injectors in the near future. My truck came with the BD diesel 75hp that are in it now and I haven't heard the greatest things about them. I'm thinking RV275s for my next ones unless anyone can recomended something they think is better....

If you get new clutch hydros, I recomend autozone. The ones I got from them have a heavy cast aluminum master and slave cylinder. It even has a bleeder screw! They are about $150.

Water issues are going to keep me from flushing with the hose even back home. It seems I don't really have a choice but to do a few drain and fill cycles with distilled water....or get a shop to do it