Scuba64

Thanks will do Jag1

Sorry the pressure was ~12 psi but would fluctuate 2 psi (10-12 psi up & down) for about 5 minutes. Then stay at 12 psi. I'll try the clear tube this weekend & search for air leaks..

Thanks Mopar1973Man & Jag1. I'll try your recommendation. I did notice that when first starting it up the pressure will fluctuate 2psi until it warms up ~ 5 minutes. s that normal?

The first time it died, it was low on diesel not near empty. So, I went and got fuel & tried to start with no success. Thanks for the advice and info.

Thanks Hagger- I'll start those checks & thanks for the advice. I'll start rechecking the grounds & connections. Most likely have to wait for it stop working again to diagnose which is frustrating.

I had to have it towed home the first time it then just happen to push the small ball on the end of the overflow valve and it started right up. I did change the overflow valve just in case and it did it again and push the ball at the end & it started right up. I did test the valve using the process Morpar1973man & it did work. I haven't driven it from that point. I'm measuring the pressure at the filter on top & today it was ~15 psi at idle. The first time it happen I did see the fuel pressure start fluctuating just before it died. I'll see if I can measure the pressure before the filter. How to you check for air leaks in the fuel system? I also need to see if I have an codes- I did have the VP44 & fuel pump changed ~ a year ago I used my cheap OBD II code reader , Maxiscan Ms 300 and it indicated no codes http://www.maxi-scan.com/38-autel-maxiscan-ms300-MS028.html

14 psi at start up/idle an around 10 during normal driving. But when this happens the fuel pressure will start fluctuating then drop to zero and it happens when minute or less.

1998.5 24V It starts fine and quick, runs strong then the fuel pressure will fluctuate and it stalls. It will not restart. I found the fuel overflow valve is getting stuck in the full open. Replaced the fuel overflow valve but it keeps happening. If I push the ball on the overflow valve it will start again.

2wd the quad not crew cab. I don't do much towing mainly a small 21ft Bayliner

Thanks I'm doing the work this weekend. Hopefully the new return valve that came in today will solve the fuel delivery problem. The truck was running at ~16 psi. So, I don;t thank that would cause the valve to stick.

Looking at purchasing a 2012 Dodge 1500 Big Horn model with Hemi with 65RFE transmission ~$18.5k and 50k miles. Looks in good condition. If I get serious with it , I'll take to mechanic to check. Does any one have any known issue to look at or reservation on this year/model? Giving my 1999 Dodge 24v Cummings to family member Is there a better truck for about the same cost to look at before getting serious on this truck? Thanks for your feedback ahead of time!

Thanks Notlimah. I'm ordering new valve and O-rings today. I don;t have a parts store that carries parts for the truck that is easily gotten. The Cummings (Pacific Cummings) usually only has the pasts in Los Angeles.

The return valves, one was new and the other original. New valve was installed in December 2015 with rebuilt VP. It's odd both would stick since it's just a spring & ball. It was installed with O-ring on both sides. Do you have a link or describe how to change the crossover tube O-ring? Haven't done any thing with the injectors. I'll be looking it up right after online.

Well, the old return valve stuck also after ~20 miles and the truck died again. I live very close to work ~2 miles. I unstuck the return valve, purged the air & it started right up. I did notice #1 & #4 in are leaking & have them as tight as I can get them. Any suggestions on how to stop the leak at #1 & #4- already as tight as I can get them by hand? Also, any thoughts on what maybe causing the return valve to stick- that's two return valves that have stuck.

The return valve from the VP44 was the faulty component that came with the VP44 I purchased in December. I was just going to let them know it failed.