Scuba64

Thanks will do Jag1

Sorry the pressure was ~12 psi but would fluctuate 2 psi (10-12 psi up & down) for about 5 minutes. Then stay at 12 psi. I'll try the clear tube this weekend & search for air leaks..

Thanks Mopar1973Man & Jag1. I'll try your recommendation. I did notice that when first starting it up the pressure will fluctuate 2psi until it warms up ~ 5 minutes. s that normal?

The first time it died, it was low on diesel not near empty. So, I went and got fuel & tried to start with no success. Thanks for the advice and info.

Thanks Hagger- I'll start those checks & thanks for the advice. I'll start rechecking the grounds & connections. Most likely have to wait for it stop working again to diagnose which is frustrating.

I had to have it towed home the first time it then just happen to push the small ball on the end of the overflow valve and it started right up. I did change the overflow valve just in case and it did it again and push the ball at the end & it started right up. I did test the valve using the process Morpar1973man & it did work. I haven't driven it from that point. I'm measuring the pressure at the filter on top & today it was ~15 psi at idle. The first time it happen I did see the fuel pressure start fluctuating just before it died. I'll see if I can measure the pressure before the filter. How to you check for air leaks in the fuel system? I also need to see if I have an codes- I did have the VP44 & fuel pump changed ~ a year ago I used my cheap OBD II code reader , Maxiscan Ms 300 and it indicated no codes http://www.maxi-scan.com/38-autel-maxiscan-ms300-MS028.html

14 psi at start up/idle an around 10 during normal driving. But when this happens the fuel pressure will start fluctuating then drop to zero and it happens when minute or less.

1998.5 24V It starts fine and quick, runs strong then the fuel pressure will fluctuate and it stalls. It will not restart. I found the fuel overflow valve is getting stuck in the full open. Replaced the fuel overflow valve but it keeps happening. If I push the ball on the overflow valve it will start again.

2wd the quad not crew cab. I don't do much towing mainly a small 21ft Bayliner

Thanks I'm doing the work this weekend. Hopefully the new return valve that came in today will solve the fuel delivery problem. The truck was running at ~16 psi. So, I don;t thank that would cause the valve to stick.

Looking at purchasing a 2012 Dodge 1500 Big Horn model with Hemi with 65RFE transmission ~$18.5k and 50k miles. Looks in good condition. If I get serious with it , I'll take to mechanic to check. Does any one have any known issue to look at or reservation on this year/model? Giving my 1999 Dodge 24v Cummings to family member Is there a better truck for about the same cost to look at before getting serious on this truck? Thanks for your feedback ahead of time!

Thanks Notlimah. I'm ordering new valve and O-rings today. I don;t have a parts store that carries parts for the truck that is easily gotten. The Cummings (Pacific Cummings) usually only has the pasts in Los Angeles.

The return valves, one was new and the other original. New valve was installed in December 2015 with rebuilt VP. It's odd both would stick since it's just a spring & ball. It was installed with O-ring on both sides. Do you have a link or describe how to change the crossover tube O-ring? Haven't done any thing with the injectors. I'll be looking it up right after online.

Well, the old return valve stuck also after ~20 miles and the truck died again. I live very close to work ~2 miles. I unstuck the return valve, purged the air & it started right up. I did notice #1 & #4 in are leaking & have them as tight as I can get them. Any suggestions on how to stop the leak at #1 & #4- already as tight as I can get them by hand? Also, any thoughts on what maybe causing the return valve to stick- that's two return valves that have stuck.

The return valve from the VP44 was the faulty component that came with the VP44 I purchased in December. I was just going to let them know it failed.

Starting consistently now & stays running, but haven't had the guts for a test drive. Changed the return valve on the vp44 (Had the original which I replaced with the replacement vp44 in December. So, I re-installed the original. ), bleed the system at inlet of vp44, return of vp44 & cracking with the 1,3,&4 injectors cracked than tightened (all injector had fuel coming out), tighten all fittings on system except on the top of the fuel tank. At one point the airdog FRRP-100 didn't start when bumped. Checked the voltage going to it (with key in 8.5V when bumped 12V- it's always at 8.6v with key in- not sure if that is proper. It's starting consistently and stays running. I'm going to let the company, Diesel Auto Power, LLC Is there any way to update the Title of this thread from Wii to Will?

Thanks Cumminz

Yea I follow that process but don't have the fittings at the injectors cracked with the truck running. I bleed them by bumping the starter loosen & tighten. Do you bleed the VP by loosening the return line?

I use the OBDLink LX- the green one- scanner.

Thanks for the write up!

Okay let me try those Cummiz & Mopar1973man. I did pull out the injector pump return & it was stuck open( blew into it and air came out the large hole with the weep hole covered, stuck a small screwdriver down it and moved it around & no air coming out when blowing in it- will replace it). See if that helps when the batteries are charged.

Is the overflow valve the one on the return line of the VP44 attached to the banjo bolt?

Mine has a two taps on the top of the fuel filter canister. I measured it from both of those tap ports. I did crack open the banjo fitting at the inlet to the VP44 and had fuel coming out of it spraying everywhere. I have to crank it for about 45-60 seconds and the pressure slowly builds up then the truck starts (pressure 15-20 psi) then slowly decrease ~10 psi and dies. Runs for about 10-15 seconds. The batteries are dead now, currently charging. It did run rough for about a minute once and it was a rough idle with pressure fluctuating around 12-14 psi- then pressure decreased and it died.

It's still hard to start and then dies as the pressure drops. No DTC codes. Don't see any white smoke. No sure what causes a pressure drop other than a leak. Would the VP44 cause this type of issue or is it more likely something else?

No luck - did again try to start when pressure was psi. The pressure never gets above 10psi and is usually at 5-7 psi. There is fuel getting to the VP44. The old pump was around 10 psi also that's why I changed it. Thought it had gone bad but this Airdog is at the same pressure. Guess I let the pumps cool down and try again. Okay let me try again for 3-5 minutes. How many times? So, I cranked on it for about 1 minute and it started but then the pressure would slowly drop even as giving gas than die. It keeps doing this: Crank for ~minute, pressure slowly rises, hits ~15psi starts, pressure continues to rise to about 20 psi, runs for about 10 seconds, pressure slowly drops even as I give it gas and truck dies. It's done this ~5 times now and will not stay running. Ideas? No ran problem codes again - no problem codes Still doing: Crank for ~minute, pressure slowly rises, hits ~15psi and starts, pressure continues to rise to about 20 psi, runs for about 10 seconds, pressure slowly drops even as I give it gas and truck dies. Will not stay running. Ideas? Tried again - same issue- will not stay started as pressure drops