Scuba64

Okay let me keep trying. I've at the bleeding air, trying to start for about 1hr. Still stuck on the pressure being so low, but will keep trying. Should I keep bump it and bleeding, than crack 3-5 times or is there a point to just try cracking only?

Okay let me try cranking 3-5 times after I get the bump starter (priming) pressure to ~10 No luck cranked 6 times with couple bump in between. The pressure was never above 12 psi. It almost started once. The was fuel coming into the VP44; cracked the banjo going into the VP44 and fuel was going in.

No problem codes- 1999 Dodge 24v 5.6L diesel 110000 miles autotrans. I'll fill out the signature page. The pressure now is <5 psi will bumping the starter. Did try cracking a few times for ~20-30 seconds. I've most likely bumped it 20 times trying to get the air out.

Truck died and will not start. Checked fuel pressure, 10 psi. Decided to change fuel pump to Airdog FRRP-100. Now with Airdog FRRP-100 pressure is at 10 psi (which I believe is low for priming pressure) with Airdog pressure screw all the way increase via screw. Cracked VP44 return line banjo bleed than tried to bleed at 1,3,5 but pressure was low very little flow. What would cause the pressure to be so low? There seems to be air still in the lines and can't seem to get it out- think be cause the pressure is so low. I did change the VP44 out in December & fuel pump (Airtek) ~year ago any suggestions?

Found the issue- Me! The vp44 nuts came loose causing it to move with power applied. I tighten them and the noise went away. The truck is running great. Also, the OTTMIND added nothing; at least I don’t notice a change.

https://youtu.be/egT-6d2r8rU Here's a Youtube of the issue. I can now hear it in Park or Neutral when revving. It sounds like it's in the engine compartment by the 5 or 6th injector area. This can be missing leading of course. Hope this helps. I'm going to take the Valve cover off and see if I see anything.

One last time with file. I had to convert from video to audio due to size. It's has the 4 speed auto transmission and NOT four wheel drive. You should be able to hear it with this file. IMG_0074.mp3

Removed the Banks APPS connectors and install the to factory plug to the APPS with no change. The starter solenoid when it stayed on it was on for a minute or so before I turned off the engine. Hard to hear that it was stuck.

Maybe this you can hear it better. I'll check the APPS. I can hear it now slightly when I rev it in Park. Could have I got dirt in one of the injectors and would that make this type of sound. It's loud during acceleration. I'm not use to Diesels so not sure what cold IAT sounds like. I did let the engine get warm. I'll see if I can get a friend to help so I can open the hood and let them rev it. IMG_0073(1).3gp 20151227_162318.mp4

Here's the sound from the truck. Dodge Rattle_crackling_pining Sound.wma

Removed OTTOmind and plugged MAP sensor into factory plug. Issue with sound still there. The truck still has good power and response. The starter did freeze "on" when I first started after the VP44 install. I had to replace the starter solenoid. th Not sure how to find the issue. The sound is bad enough I don't want to drive it.

VP44 install and new support bracket kit. The support bracket was broke which I did notice until install when it came apart. It's running with good power. I did not install the Yellow electrical line for the Ottomind. I have an issue- high pitch tinny sound (a little like a blenders with metal in it) when I give it gas ans in gear, which wasn't there before. Can only hear it when giving it gas. The sound is not there at idle, out of gear or cruising . So, not sure if the Ottomind isn't getting info and causing it. Any suggestion on the sound?

Yea I have the 2 yr no tap unit. Don't need the extra power at this time, no towing. Does the 2-cycle oil or Bio clean the system? I need to find this weekend a pressure gauge. Do people place on the return fuel line as well? to see the banjo fitting is working, I think 14 psi. Thanks for the advice.

I already ordered a vp44 from DAP in Utah and taken everything out except the VP44 (haven't removed the large nut) But I do have a Banks High-Ram & large exhaust. I did notice that they tapped a Yellow wire to the VP44- Hope the Banks system isn't the issue. Not wanting to put everything back in to do that test- but does leave you a little unsure. Wish I would have done that test. I'll find out Monday or Tuesday when the New VP44 comes in. The Banks system in TLC Power system ,http://www.bankspower.com/products/show/?option_id=189|9|Diesel%20Trucks%2C%20%0A98-02%20Dodge%20-%205.9L%20Cummins%20ISB|1, Installed in 2001- so, 14 years. Do I need to install , tap the VP44 electronics, the Yellow wire? what are the best things to do to extend the life of a VP44? (fuel level above 1/2 tank, replace fuel filter every x miles?, ...?) Any suggestion on a pressure sending unit (I don;t want diesel in the cab- or wife doesn't) Thanks again

I also have a "No Start" issue. Truck died for third time first time on the road. The other two times would not start and towed home. The first two times I was to start - 1st time replaced fuel pump, second time bleed system at banjo fitting at VP44 & fuel filter. 3rd time I'm not able to start: tried bleeding system at banjo fitting at VP44 & filter, 6 time fake crack (don't know the correct term). Also, check wiring voltage at VP44. Did have code 1688 but did check for code until after bleeding at injectors. I'm doing by my self no help. New to diesels. Question is the is there any other test I should perform to ensure it's the VP44? I'm not sure what the fuel amount should be at the injectors with fake crank. There wasn't much fuel, not high pressure with fuel pump running only. NOt sure if I caused more issues bleeding at injector with the truck not started. I did try the CAN bus removal at the VP44- Still did not start Thanks Yes by Fake crank - I mean bump start. So, I bump started and bleed the fuel canister, and the banjo fitting on the VP44. Then I open #1, #3 and #4 and cranked for ~20 seconds , few times tightened each down but no luck starting. I did have fuel from each injector. I did check the voltage & pin #6 and #7- did have voltage on #7 and ground on #6. I didn't do the "Hot Test" since there was voltage and ground on those pins. I guess time to buy VP44. I hope you answered 64Crew4X4 question. Sorry to butt in on his string.

I also have a "No Start" issue. Truck died for third time first time on the road. The other two times would not start and towed home. The first two times I was to start - 1st time replaced fuel pump, second time bleed system at banjo fitting at VP44 & fuel filter. 3rd time I'm not able to start: tried bleeding system at banjo fitting at VP44 & filter, 6 time fake crack (don't know the correct term). Also, check wiring voltage at VP44. Did have code 1688 but did check for code until after bleeding at injectors. I'm doing by my self no help. New to diesels. Question is the is there any other test I should perform to ensure it's the VP44? I'm not sure what the fuel amount should be at the injectors with fake crank. There wasn't much fuel, not high pressure with fuel pump running only. NOt sure if I caused more issues bleeding at injector with the truck not started. I did try the CAN bus removal at the VP44- Still did not start Thanks