jonathan1950

Thanks, I will see about getting some new washers for those and changing them out. Would that cause low fuel pressure also? That has me a little confused, I can understand the loss of prime, but I have not heard anyone say that with a fuel leak they also have low fuel pressure. Guess if the washers fix the hard start I will have to see what happens with the fuel pressure. The next time I drive the truck I will leave the cap loose and see what happens. I will keep you posted, it might take a while as I will be riding the bike more and more with the nice weather.

This is on one of the ranch trucks, it is a GMC Kodiack C6000, so tire rotation is nonexistent. It is luck to get an oil change twice a year, whether it needs it or not. We just bought the truck a month ago go or so, not saying that it is right, but maintanance is kind of on the when we get to it side. The inside pad was dragging but did not produce any noise, so we did not know that it was that bad. Heck, sometimes we tell the boss that our work trucks need something done to them and he says that we will get to in, then he has to drive that truck and says, wow, we need to get that truck in tomorrow to have it fixed, just good thing we are flat landers and do not have to brake going down hills. LOL.

So for the past few weeks my fuel pressure has dropped from 19 psi at idle and 17 psi cruising, down to 16 psi at idle and 14 psi cruising. I have checked all my hoses and they look good, put a clamp on one hose that may have had an issue. If I park the truck facing down hill it will start after a week of setting no problem, but if the truck sits level or facing up hill then it takes a long time cranking to start. If I bump the starter and let the fuel pump cycle then it will usually start quickly. I have notice that as the tank gets lower it seems that the fuel pressure drops one or two psi. Other than starting over with a new fuel pump and big line kit, I am not sure. I have read about Raptor pumps going bad, so not sure if this is the issue or not. Another thing I have noticed is once in a while when I bump the starter the fuel pump does not come on? I replaced the relay under the hood, but it still seems to be just an occasional thing. Wondering if there could be an electrical issue instead of a fuel issue?

Good to know that a rotor can be this worn down and still stop the vehicle. The only reason it was found was the caliper started leaking because it overextended the pistons and leaked. I am thinking that it has another 100,000 miles on it, the more worn it gets the better it stops, right?

Thanks, I was thinking that he would need some programmer. I did not know about using the exhaust brake, I will let him know about that. We live a ways out of town, but he does not tow or haul with it so that might not help him a whole lot. Thanks for the response.

A co-worker of mine picked up an 08 diesel and is having issues with the catalytic converter. If he drives around in town for two hours or so, his over head will display a warning that his cat is 80% plugged. Once out on the hiway and getting some flow through the engine then it will blow the 'soot' out of the cat. His question to me is can he straight pipe this year or will he need to get some software in order to fool the computer. The truck is basically stock, 4X4, manual trans. He is worried about the cat plugging up and then having to purchase a new one. I am not familiar with the CR so any help would be great, thanks.

It was great meeting and visiting with you, I hope you came away with some information, I know that I did. I have read that you want some sort of muffler or resonator or the truck will be pretty loud. As we discussed most like the RV275's. I do like my 75 hp injectors though.

I started with the black seven color series and liked them but after about a year the fuel gauge quit and several months later the egt also quit. I now have Speedhut fuel and egt and so far like them. I can set a low and/or high warning light on them. Thet are not the cheapest but I would prefer not to have diesel in my cab so that leaves only electric gauge. They are nice while they are working but might be wise to save a little more and get a long term reliable set.

Joe, I am in town but do not have very good internet access. If you give me a call at 2083293848 we can set up a time to meet.

I think I pm'ed my number. Just got in town but do not have internet so it would best to call me and we can set up a time either tomorrow or Friday.

And that is one of the many reasons I swapped out the auto for a NV4500. I would not say it is expensive, and if you can turn wrenches it is not very difficult. It took me about four days, three of which I was working my regular job and on the truck in the evening. My truck is very similar to yours, we can chat about it when we meet up. If I had to do it again I would swap in the NV4500 in a heartbeat and not look back.

Mine are only a single piston, so I guess that when I buy new calipers I will be getting some 02's. Thanks, I did not realize that the new trucks had dual piston, is it a noticable difference on stopping?

Not sure if this will work or if anyone has tried this. I just finished with doing my front brakes and the parts guy commented of replacing the calipers. A mechanic said that if the calipers where working then no need to replace them, but I started looking on the internet. I noticed that the calipers for a Ram Van 2500 looks just like the calipers on the pickup except that it is two pistons instead of the pickups single piston. I have been looking in to doing a free spin hub conversion and one of the comments that I have read is that the Ford has better brakes because of the two piston calipers. So what I am wondering is if anyone has tried the van calipers on the pickup front end?

I will be up in the Portland area later this week, we may be able to meet up and compare trucks? Let me know if this will work for you.

The best way to do an auto to manual swap is to get a donor truck. I found a five speed, that is what I would suggest going with, from a wrecking yard. You will need to shorten the front driveline, the rear driveline I did not lengthen and it has been fine. The input shaft on the transfer case needs to be changed out. The transmission cross member needs to be changed. The pedals is a snap to do, there is a rod holding the brake pedal, just pull that rod out and insert it in the brake and clutch pedal. It took me about three days from driving it in the shop to driving it out. I would do it again in a heartbeat, but mod I have done so far.

I watched a youtube video on the same deal with pulling the unit bearing apart. They just packed the bearing with grease and put them back together. It is a good idea to put a grease fitting in the unit bearing. My bearing still seem good, the spun easily and quietly, this would be a good thing to look into. If I do it I will have to take some pictures, other might want to do this also.

Got them installed yesterday, so far, I have not driven very much yet, but they seem good. They have a low and high warning light, I have set them but since I have not driven the truck much I have not had a lot of experience yet. So far they seem good, it will be nice having the warning lights built in, I guess only time will tell how good they are.

So I just finished doing my front brakes on my 99. Everyone says how hard they are to get off, glad my truck came from California, they just fell off. Getting them back on was a chore though, no one ever says how hard they are to reinstall. It took me an hour to take both sides apart and about three hours to put everything back together. Although some of that time was cleaning up the dirty parts. One thing I did find interesting was that my bearings did not have ABS sensors on them, I thought that they would? Not complaining, just was surprised not to see them on my truck.

The two that I ordered are 2 1/16". I am still working on getting them installed and will post pictures when I have them up and running, but they are 52 mm and fit into my A pillar pod.

Then I am glad that I did not get the boost gauge. I did not pay $180 for my two gauges and since my Glowshift fuel and EGT are not working any longer I do not need the 2 1/8'" but the 2 1/16" so they should fit nicely into my pillar. Just wondering if anyone has used these or not though?

Just wondering if anyone has used these gauges? I just received fuel and egt gauges. They seem like nice gauges, they have a high and low warning light and they are not overly expensive.

It was low on refridgerant, I have a leak in the low side valve where you add refrigderant to the system. Not sure if that valve is serviceable or if I will need to replace the line? For now the fix is to leave the hose connected to the valve and the hose away from any heat.

I will check the pressures. Hopefully that is all it is, thanks for the help and I will let you all know what the results are.

The a/c clutch is not engaging, so it might be the high or low pressure switch? I will have to check the pressures again, it might be a slow leak and now it has leaked down enough not to work? Thanks for some places to look.

So last week I was in town with the a/c going, I parked and went into the feed store to get some stuff. When I came out the vent was blowing warm air. I checked the fuse, relay and the pressure and all where good. I took off and pretty quick the a/c started blowing cold again. It did it one more time while I was parked and started working again when I started moving. The other day I went into town and the a/c did not work at all. Parked or driving, nothing but hot air out the vents. I have been told that the switch in the cab could be bad, but when I switch from the vents to the floor it changes just like it should. Just wondering if I am missing something?