matthew gilland

@Mopar1973Man Please excuse my late response. I unplugged the mods and put it back to stock. No change. Turn the key and goes straight to 140*F on the instrument cluster. I have noticed that the truck does get hotter faster according to the temp gauge which is odd. I have the 195*F tstat installed because of MN winters. And noticed the temp gauge goes over 200*F before going down some once the tstat opens and then the temp goes just under the 190*F mark. Not sure if this is all normal. But truck is 20+ years old. Just don't want to end up stranded on the side of the road for overheating. I am tempted to get that scan gauge 2 module to see what the computer is actually reading for temps.

Hello, I have a late 1999 24 valve sport model appears to be 4 wheel abs, just extra information. Have edge comp, S&B cold air intake, 5 inch turbo back straight pipe, and RV injectors. Rest of truck is stock. Anyway, I am just curious as to if it is normal for the stock temp gauge on the dash to be at 140*F on a cold engine in the summer. Sits for about a week then drive it off and on this summer 2022, temps reaching high 90*F. But yeah, when I go to use the truck after starting the temp gauge is already reading 140*F. I know that is not normal but I just would like a 2nd opinion. I also do have the Mopar1973Man High Idle/Eco Switch installed. It is switched off the whole time. I even changed the coolant temp sensor right by the t-stat housing. Is it possible the eco switch has died? Or is there a second temp sensor. It looks like the 12 valve has two sensors but not sure about the 24 valve. Or is it an ecu failure? I did read something about the gauge cluster is operated by the ecu so that is why I added this option. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you for your time!

I would love to hear if this conversion works! Also, I do not think that I have the updated wiring for an intank lift pump. Could I wire one up myself? I wired one up for my 2001 vw jetta TDI a couple years ago and had no issues with it. *UPDATE* found a replacement fuel tank. Hope it is in good shape and if it is, want to get it in at the same time I do the lift pump. @Mopar1973Man If I did the in tank lift pump, either a Spectra/Delphi correct send unit for my truck or the 2010+ you mentioned, what would I need for fuel lines and fuel line connectors? Should I upgrade it to 1/2 inch lines? Also, if I did the in tank lift pump, would I still need the frame/block mounted fass lift pump? Or would the in tank lift pump work on its own? @Evan Thank you for your post, but if you do not have any worthwhile, helpful information, and just want to criticize. Please stay out of this thread.

Nope. If you read my original post you will understand.

@Irie808 thanks! I will see if that will work for me. I seen there is a retrofit kit to change it to 1/2 inch lines, can't remember where. Everyone else, thanks for your input! I am still working on the issue, learning as I go.

Thanks everyone for your valued input! I changed the calipers since they were under warranty, and the brake lines to the calipers. My brake steer issue is fixed!! Cannot believe it was them lines. Again, thanks everyone!!

I have not changed my brake lines, yet. I just ordered new front brake lines off amazon and will install on my next day off. The calipers are under 10 year warranty through RockAuto, which is nice! They are the premium calipers with the anti-rust paint on it. @Haggar that may be what is happening but when I go to touch the front rims, the driver side is hot to the touch after 20 minutes of driving to work (highway and through town), passenger is just getting warm. Going home pretty much same route driver side is warm to touch and passenger is cool. @wil440 the sliders are free and lubed up. When I went to push the piston back the truck had been sitting overnight, so cold, and it would not move. So I think it is seized. I have not checked the passenger side as it appears to still be okay. I still take the truck to work with this issue as it is the only vehicle I have at the moment. Truck brake steers to the right as stated, and as speed slows down it feels like the left caliper catches up or the right side isn't brake steering anymore. Then when releasing the brake pedal and driving it feels like the left caliper is slightly grabbing as it wants to brake steer to the left a little. This is all with slop in the steering still... I want to get this brake steer/seized caliper issue fixed before I tackle the steer slop.

@dripley I am from the middle of Minnesota. Winter good days without wind -30*F with wind -40*F, summer 100*F. @Irie808 I got to remove my box anyways to get the new one painted and put in place. Would like to put an intank lift pump in before I install the new bed. I do not see the link you were talking about and where you got it. I got a response from Fleece performance and they will be coming out with an intank lift pump sending unit soon, but it might be around the $699 which is quite high!! @wil440 it gets cold here in Minnesota, -30*F no wind and -40*F or colder with wind. And no slime or bacteria build up in the tank. When I drilled the 3 inch hole under my sending unit I stuck my hand inside and it was free of slime. I also get fuel from a truck stop all the time and add additives. I think I am not adding the correct amount of additives and not enough #1 in the winter. My current fuel pressure gauge is a glowshift and well it is taking a dump so I need a new one. @MyOle2500 I run 1/2 inch lines from my sump to lift pump on frame just in front of the tank and then to the fuel filter assembly on engine block. Before my fuel pressure gauge started going bonkers I usually got 18psi and didn't go lower than 10psi, now the sensor is being erratic and yeah needs replacement... So I am thinking of running both my current lift pump and an intank lift pump sending unit using 1/2 inch fuel line for the maximum amount of flow, will this be bad? I think summer will not be an issue, winter might... The only thing I can think of being bad is that the sending unit is directly on top of the sump and in the winter maybe the one might suck more than the rest and cause issues if the fuel gelled a little? What is your input on that?

Hello, My truck is a late 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 24 valve with 250xxx. I live in the middle of Minnesota. Just to make everyone aware. I have had an issue with the truck since ownership, that every year my fuel gells up at least once. Last year was the worst, I think like 3 times. Had to use a nip cone and a bunch of cardboard to get the fuel thawed enough to start. I use diesel fuel additives year round (white and gray bottles), and generally more in the winter, including walmart brand 2 stroke oil TCW3 year round. I have the Fass DDRP with relocation kit on the frame just in front of the tank, with the Beans Diesel sump kit, yes I put a nice hole under the sending unit, that way I can pull and push the fuel to filter assembly. Wanted to do the draw straw but that involved removing the bed. My fuel filter assembly is not the 2001 style, though I do have a 2001 fuel filter assembly that needs to be installed. I think my fuel filter heater is junk on the original one. Back to the question at hand. I want to go to using an in-tank lift pump for winter months. I am not sure if I have an in-tank lift pump from factory, I did unhook a wire from the connector on top of the sending unit but I am not sure if that was just because factory used one style of wire harness. Does anyone know if there is a good aftermarket sending unit lift pump assembly from a reputable manufacturer? I believe that in-tank lift pumps are better for winter use as it pushes fuel. I was about to have a 750 watt circulation block heater added to my sump to keep my fuel heated in the winter but if the fuel gells then it won't work... Also, I get 12-14 mpg, constantly year round. I do have an Edge Comp 4x2 settings. Any help would be nice. Thanks!

Hello, My 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 24 valve 250xxx has an interesting issue. I have done quite a bit to the front end to try and figure out this issue. Replaced the steering gear box with a redhead unit. Steering gear box brace. Track bar upgrade to bushing with heim joint. Power steering lines when I did the steering gear box. Borg Warner steering shaft upgrade. That delron piece on the steering unit engine side this one http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/index.php/about-the-fix/ . Rebuilt the vacuum pump. Replaced the hydroboost a few years ago. Calipers like 2 or 3 times now. Pulled the rear proportioning valve off as it was rusted heavily and I blew the rear metal brake line a couple winters ago. So the truck pulls to the right when I brake. When I need to brake hard that is a rodeo keeping it under control so I have to drive with pretty close attention so I don't need to brake hard. Braking in the winter is sketchy but manageable. As stated above, I have replaced calipers 2 or 3 times so far. Well drivers side is sticking, can smell it and the rim gets hot, and tried to push the piston back and it would not budge, passenger side is getting replaced as well. So at the same time, my truck is pulling to the left when the driver caliper starts to stick but when braking it pulls to the right so I need to counter steer to the left. I did do tie rods, drag link, and pit man arm link a few years back as well. Thinking of doing the steering link upgrade soon not sure yet... Have not done wheel bearings or ball joints yet. My front axle seals are leaking, though left has it a little worse than the right side isn't bad. Need to get that fixed one of these days. I seen there are two different sizes of rotors, which I have not replaced since ownership of the truck in 2013. I don't think having different sized rotors would do anything as the braking system gets bled/adjusted and is one pressure after that. Tires were replaced at the same time a few years ago. I believe the axle is in the correct spot as I had an alignment done after the tie rods and drag link replacement. What could be the issue? I am at a loss here. ABS module is toast, read on AllDataDIY that if the ABS module isn't working it brakes like standard brakes so that ruled out the ABS system. Could my hydroboost be bad? I replaced it for the same issue way back when I got the truck, pulled to right when braking... Both replacement calipers bad from start? Brake lines bad? I do need to do something about the steering gear box again though, got slop in it now... Any help would be nice! Thanks!