Shmokes24v

Wow way to thread jack over a seat belt light lol. Found the draw was from me putting the key on power wire to my external voltage regulator was on the wrong fuse after i put the fuse block back in.

Well batteries werent completely dead but they didnt have enough juice to turn the truck over fast enough to fire. Going to check for draw tonight. Not sure if the draw is related to the ecm turning off though.

Ill have to bring the test light home tomorrow and check for draw again. Did this a while back and found a large draw from the shorted out seat belt in the drivers seat. However this truck is like the base model, no power windows, no power locks, no power seats(seat belt has power), ive pulled the dome light, both door sensors, and the glove box light. Will check in the morning to see if batterys are dead or not.

Nope. Problem hasnt gotten worse or better.

Pins inside the under dash fuse box.

So here we are a year later. Tracked down a loose terminal in the under dash fuse block on fuse 9 which i was able to kill the engine from wiggling it. Pulled it out swapped pins out and now it has a tight connection. Thought i had found the problem so i hopped in and tried to take it to work this morning for a test ride and i didnt make it but maybe 5 miles and sure enough died on me and ecm turned off. I previously tracked down a popped capacitor on the PCM board and had it replaced by a friend who does that for a living and that changed nothing, cant for the life of me figure this out and cant get any hard evidence that its the ECM. I opened the case on the ECM and found nothing out of the ordinary. Been through the harness shaking and wiggling and nothing. However these last couple days something has been completely draining my batteries and noticed the grid heater codes again so i wonder is it possible the grid heater relays are shorting out causing transfer of positive voltage to the engine block grounds which in turn freak the ECM out and cause it to turn off? Ive just removed the wires off the battery and shall see if the batteries still drain. Truck runs great when it runs but something is causing the ECM to just shutdown. Im running out of ideas here. Just to recap on whats been replaced, Ignition switch Crank sensor and pigtail Cam sensor and pigtail Used vp44 Coolant temp sensor and pigtail External voltage regulator Pins on fuse 9 of the dash fuse block Asd and FP relays Oil pressure sending unit Checked and cleaned all grounds i could find Recalibrated apps And just disconnected the grid heater relay wiring from the batteries.

That was with the alternator connected. I'll have to check with it disconnected when I get home. I warrantied out the external voltage regulator because my voltage was jumping to 15.25volts.

Put the alternator back on and at idle I get AC voltage at the battery. Is that normal?

Took my original alternator to a local alternator shop and they tested it and the ripple was 0.03-0.04. they took the back off and checked the brushes as well and said they were real good. So I guess the alternator is not the problem... Guess I'll throw it back in and see if I can reproduce the original symptoms.

Someone said the bench test wasn't testing AC leakage? And that's what's supposed to be below 0.03? This is so confusing....

Well I've had 4 alternators tested and so far the lowest has been 0.33... This is proving to be more difficult than expected

OK I found one at another AutoZone and the guy said under actual ripple volts it showed 0.00 so I'm guessing that's the one I want? I'll have it tested again before I buy it just to make sure.

AutoZone claims this as a pass.. and their new one tested at 0.40... Should i keep looking for another one?

OK I'll certainly do that. Thank you

Well I decided to check my alternator for AC noise since that seems like a common problem on these trucks. It dropped to .01 and .02 a few times but seemed to consistently hold at 0.3 most of the time... Took this picture where it was at 0.5... Gonna replace the alternator today and recheck.