fishtails

Hi Everyone,If anyone out there has an end of the run second gen Cummins 12 valve (mine is a 1997) long bed club cab without a camper package, could you please possibly take a minute or two and measure the height of the block on the top of the rear axle? If you have a similar truck and there is no lift block, please let me know!Thanks for the help ahead of time.

Does anyone know why most 2nd gen CTD shocks list "Exclusion: Snow Plow Prep Package"?I did not get (or maybe I couldn't get) the snow plow option when I ordered my truck back in 1997 and am wondering if there is a special coil and/or shock setup that would allow a snow plow setup? I'm thinking it might have been an axle overload issue though (too much weight with the Cummins engine to throw the weight of the snow plow on top of that front axle). Also, does anyone know what the camper option added to the suspension? Thanks for any advice or information you can provide ahead of time!

Thanks for the input JOHNFAK. Judging by the response I have gotten so far, I guess nobody on this forum is running these. I've heard that the Bilsteins are a bit stiff, but in general are great shocks - otherwise Carli / Kore / Lorenz would not be using them on their starter suspension kits, so I am wondering what you don't like about the Bilsteins that would make you want to try the Rancho's? Do you have the Bilstein 5100's? Are you in a 4x4 8800 lb GVWR diesel? I know why I am thinking about choosing these shocks: nobody else is offering a 90 day money back guarantee for parts and labor (up to $50 per pair of installed shocks) if you don't like them for any reason. If anybody has had any of the 9000 series Ranchos, please chime. I am interested in any pros or cons you have had with them.

Was looking at my Dana part numbers for upcoming gear change when I noticed my old stock shocks are shot. Wondering if anyone with an 8600 / 8800 lb cap 4x4 extended cab has tried this and if so, are these worth the money? I would really like to hear from someone with the remote control wireless unit.

Thanks for the advice MnTom. You are correct and I was wrong. For the 286 RBI axle the torque is only supposed to be 90 ft/lbs for the axle to hub bolt and 120-140 ft/lbs for the hub nut. I just remembered not being able to break my front hub nuts loose - thinking back I remember it was not hard to get them torqued back on. Breaker bar to get them off was only 24" and the pipe was only 48" too, so I was exaggerating a bit. I do remember jumping on the breaker bar a bunch of times after not being able to break it by pulling and then having to go out and buy the 48" pipe in a real ticked off mood!

If the rear hubs are anything like the front hubs you not only want a BFH, but BFBB (big you know what breaker bar). Mine were so tight I had to use a 48" breaker bar AND a 5 foot pipe to break them lose. You will also want a huge torque wrench to tighten the hub down correctly. I can't remember exactly what the manual said for the front - I think it was on the order of 250 or 260 ft/lbs.

That seems really really low. I am doing about 2500 RPM's at 55 or 60. What size tires are you pushing? Did you check the chart at Motive? How does your truck do from a dead stop? I do like the way mine takes off when I want it to. Are you in an automatic or extended cab? 16 or 17 is pretty good either way!

Nothing wrong with them, but with diesel at $4.10 / gallon I can't afford the 4.10 ratio! What a coincidence - 4.10 & 4.10!!! Just filled up the truck yesterday for $92.00 (ouch). If I can give you some advice: don't do it. I'm not sure what you are getting for MPG's but I can bet you are doing better than 12-14 that I am seeing. If you really want to and yours are in good shape you can post your location and I'll let you know if you are within driving distance. Is your truck 4x4?

Thanks Wild and Free - looks like a pretty good site with a good selection. I found a chart that might help anyone else who is thinking about this too: http://www.motivegear.com/pages/charts/CHART.pdf --- Update to the previous post... Here's a gear ratio change speed calculator I found as well: http://www.csgnetwork.com/rearendgearcalc.html I guess I might be changing the speedometer gear too.

If anyone needs a free Dana Spicer 70 Repair Manual, here is the link: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXSM-0053.pdf I found this while researching changing my front Dana 60 & Rear Spicer 70 ring & pinion gear ratio from 4.10 to 3.54 (or anything close to this). If anyone can give me advice on how to do this (ie: if it can be done, what I need to buy to get this done (special carriers?, best gear sources, special tools, etc.) I would really appreciate it. Thanks for any help.

Thanks ISX. That figures that some biodiesel might quiet the noise down. It seems like I always waste money and then find out after the fact that there was a simple cheap fix. A "ticking" noise is exactly what I am hearing (and have heard twice in the past $$). I always assumed it was the lift pump going and when I changed it out the ticking went away. Live and learn! I will try the biodiesel trick before doing anything to the lift pump this time. The truck is a 97 12 valve, 4.10, 4x4, MBRP 4 inch Cat Back, extended cab. The HP pump I was referring to is just the Bosch P7100 High Pressure fuel injection pump. Thanks again for the tip!

This is probably a dumb question, but does anyone know of a way to have both the stock Carter lift pump and an electric fuel pump? I have replaced my mechanical lift pump twice when it started making noise (too scared of burning up the HP pump), and now it is making noise again. Everyone knows electric motors fail which would be a sure fire way to burn up the HP pump, hence the thought of having both. I am thinking about a tee connection after both pumps with a check valve on each, but I really have no idea if this is possible or feasible.