rooster4473

i auctually borrowed a tester from work, (cuz mine is cheap and wasnt working well on the ac like you said), When I tested AC it was spiking .065 or so. I took the fuse out and ran it and it really felt like the tc didnt unlock. Im gonna put the fuse back in and run it tomorrow and see if it unlocks and if it does i guess i"ll take the fuse back out and run it and see if it makes the tc quick unlocking. If it does im getting a new alternator...Im pretty sure already it is the alternator and im probabbly just going to get one and eat the $200, ive already got enough money in this truck to buy me a really nice old Chevy LOL.As far as having it bench tested I dont know of any where local that does that, im polluted with autozones and stuff around me and when i asked them if they could check diodes they looked like i was speaking a different language. Im trying to find a place to buy an alternator other then autozone, something that isnt cheap china crap, but i dont want to go to a dealer either cuz their mark up is so high and they and i dont want them to test it cuz they charge a million dollars to "run diagnostics" and they want to do it on the whole truck and half the time they cant figure out whats wrong any way.

cool, alternator, got it. the thing is I just go the tranny rebuilt, they change a ton of stuff and it cost me a LOAD of cash, the guy said its still unlocking at a light pedal at around 40mph, he suggested changing all the battery cables and the TPS (not him changing it he only does trannys). I drove it all around today and i think it may have done it once and it only lasts for maybe a second. I tried doing the alernator diode testing thing to check for AC feedback and i got 30, but i also got 30 on my jeep and its fine, and im not sure if i take the fuse out, because the unlocking is so subtle, ill be able to tell if it worked. Im not sure what to do now.

Its a 99, its in my signatureyou wouldnt happen to know where the generator is lol

I would like to try taking out the alternator fuse just to see if it helps, can you tell me where the fuse is for sure so i dont take out the wrong one (i know that sounds stupid) I just want to make sure i dont take out a relay or something - - - Updated - - - I was also wondering where the alternator diode is, since it said the guy changed the alternator and it didn't fix it i figured the diode isnt in the alternator

they suggest higher pressure but all i have is a stock lift and thats what it does. Thanks I'll look into checking the pressure. --- Update to the previous post... Thats not the one I was thinking of....

Dont need your sarcasim.... and ive of used a cute little icon but they dont have one waving with just one finger --- Update to the previous post... LOL I dont know why I didnt think of that! i wonder if my friend has a gauge for that, do you have any idea what the pressure should be?

I have plenty of power, and i have a fuel gauge on the low side and i have 15lbs or so which is normal for my truck, and my inj pump is only about a yr old, not saying that it couldnt go in a year, but its acting more like shifting problems then fuel.

My trucks has been shifting funny, last night I thought it was going in and out of OD to drive. Today it seemed ok when i was just driving it normally around normally, but i was messing with shifting it on a flat streach of road and if I turn off the OD i can tell it goes into drive, but if i manually put it into 2nd itll rev for a second and then its like being in neutral, but if i manually put it into first I can tell it drops into first and revs. And its the same starting from a stop. If i put the truck manually into first and pull out i can tell its in first, then if i shift to second its like hitting neutral, and then when i manually put it into drive you can tell it goes into drive and then od. I scanned it and its not pulling any codes up. So is my 2nd gear fried and i need the tranny rebuilt or could it be a computer issue but not have a code.

I dont know if it makes a difference or not, but because it is electrical and hard to get too I bought my sensor at the dodge dealer. There is a parts place online called rockauto.com that i use alot now and they have name brand stuff, i didnt start buying from them till after i fixed my truck, but they probabbly have sensors.

Yea I figured that out, took me a while tho lol!!! But if you do the "acuator test" for the insturment cluster when the nobus is off everything works fine. When you do the acuator test when the no bus is on it pulls up codes 920 and 921 and both of them refer to the pcm. 920 says "The cluster is not receiving a vehicle speed message from the PCM" and 921 says "The cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the PCM" and both say "Check the PCM software level and reflash if required". I figured the pcm is messed up because the idiots at the one garage took the back off and poked the stuff inside, its a sealed computer unit, I have no idea why they did that... But instead of trying to have it reflashed and it not working ,cuz they broke a wire or something, I was just going to get pcm. Have you ever done the "acuator test"?

yea, pulled the plug in the fuse box thing, cleaned it, and the pcm has 3 plugs and all of them have been cleaned And yes theres a ground on the pcm. This truck has just drove me crazy!

Ive been having this problem for months now with my '99 Dodge . It comes and goes, but what happens is all my gauges quit working, "Nobus" shows in the odometer, the truck quits charging, it shifts funny. Me and my buddy have been all thru this truck, all the grounds are good, I checked the plug in the fuse box thats under the hood, and I checked the ignition switch. The code I get from the OBD is P1698 and if I do the Actuator test for the insturment cluster I get codes 920 and 921. (when this truck was at another garage they had the pcm off and opend the back of it) Anyway im positive its the pcm thats bad, and im going to order a new one monday unless someone here thinks im wrong, so any one have any other opionions?

That hall sensor sounds like my problem, but my jeep sounds fine at an idle. Would the sensor just mess up all of the sudden? Wouldnt it make a code come up or the check engine light come on? Im still driving the jeep, Im just kinda babying it right now. It is kinda funny tho, mine backfires a good bit, and of course I thought reving the heck out of it would fix it, , and I blew up a brand new muffler!

Im not even sure how much fuel pressure it should have, the book says with the regulator vacuum hose on 31-33psi and when the regulator vacuum hose is off 39-41psi, but there is an exception for the '95 cuz the regulator is on the pump in the tank and it doesn't give the specifics for it.

it seemed to hold pressure, maybe dropped a lil down to 35 or so when i was powerbraken it, and i just changed the filter, and i didnt c any vacuume lines off.

Cool, the jeep will idle ok and run ok as long as you baby it and dont go over 2k rpm, after that the motor "surges", acting like its running out of gas, itll rev up then drop idle over and over and pop out the exhaust, and it loses power, I changed the fuel filter and im getting about 38lbs of fuel pressure. I also cleaned the IAC, just cuz its there and easy. The ck engine light is not on and if you do the key cycle its bringing up code 12, the guy at the parts store said wires cap and rotor, but theyre less then a year old, not that they couldnt be bad, but I was leaning more towards the egr or tpc? Any suggestions?

im having running problems w my 95 jeep grand cherokee, it has 5.2 in it, would anyone be able to help me or is it not considered a dodge or chrysler?

Im the origional owner, so there shouldnt be any upgrades, unless dodge felt like givn me something extra I didnt know about LOL

Should I pull the turbo off first and clean it out? I do pull trailers, but i havent done any pulling in 5 months or so, and the code is still there. Even if I erase the code and then just start the truck again the code comes right back, does that sound more like the map sensor? And I just dont have the cash rt now to buy another scanner, the vp kinda wiped me out.

I dont want more boost, I just want the codes to go away LOL! if its working ok why do I keep getting those codes, could something else be wrong, could it be the map sensor or something? Ill have to take the relay to the parts store, im pretty sure auto zone told me it was $80, but theyre as lost as I am most of the time

My truck was running ok for about 160 miles and then it acted like it didnt have any power for a few minutes but then it was ok again. I checked the codes when I got home and I got 234 and 236, Ive had them before, the manual describes them as "problem detected in turbocharger wastegate" I checked the wastegate actuator and you can push the rod to open the wastegate with a screwdriver, it takes a some pressure but it does seem to open, and I hooked air to it and it opened at around 25psi, and it doesnt seem like the acuator is leaking or anything. Should it open at a lower psi? Im also getting a 382 code. The heater works when you plug it in, and the truck doesnt have any problems starting when its cold out, so im not sure whats not working -the code is for the heater relay #2- and im also not sure where the heater relay #2 is, im guessing the one relay in the fuse box under the hood, but I want to make sure cuz that relays about $80, and i hate to sound cheap, but do I really need this relay for the truck to run ok? Thanks in advance

I did think about going with a Fass, I really liked the one in fact, but the VP is supposto be rebuilt better then the origional, and the lift pump is supposto be built better and push more pressure then the origional, and I got over 100k on the origional equiptment, which I didnt think was bad (I know, cuz Im the origional owner). So Im hoping if the new parts are built better Ill get at least another 100k. If the light comes on more then a couple times I WILL defenatelly upgrade to the Fass, and hope its before any damage was done to the VP (i know its a gamble) but I was willing to buy a Fass, auctually the dealer sells Bully Dog, and he told me with the improvements Cummings made on their transfer pump I wouldnt need it. He gives the extended 2 year warranty on the VP (and he doesnt have to), and I figured if he had alot of returns he would of insisted I buy the Bully Dog. I'll adimit Im FAR from an expert, and if I made the wrong decision its gonna suck, but I guess Ill deal with it if my decision was wrong. Thank you for hoping I have trouble free years, I hope so too

I got VP at the cummings dealer in barkeyville pa up on I80, "Diesel injection & parts I-80" the number is 814-786-7916. That shops VP's are Bosh rebuilt ( he was cheaper then autozone or advance and those pumps are rebuilt by some company called Cardone ), and Bosh warrenties it for 1 year and the dealer extendes the warranty for another year. I made sure the pump would still be covered for 2 years if I put it in myself and he said yes. He doesnt seem the type to snake you out of a warranty, not to mention I dont think he looses money, I think Bosh would cuz he just sells for them, and he takes the VP's apart before he ships them back to Bosh and cleans and dries them out before he ships them back to Bosh ( because Fex EX and UPS complain about fuel leaking out of the pump ) so I dont think Bosh would see any dirt of anything. My frarrier has a stock 1999 Dodge Diesel 3500 and that garage does his diesel work and that shop has always done good by my farrier, and my farrier has over 300K on his truck. The lift pump is a genuine cummings made replacement, so it better be good! And right at the moment I dont have two nickles to rub togeather , so a fass or even a spare lift will have to wait, and my next project is a 1990 st.6 jeep I have to put rod and main bearings and and an oil pump in it in before I spend any money on anything else, at least the jeep is cheap to fix and a bit easier on fuel, but not as much fun to drive. And Im not planning on going "bigger" with the Cummings, I have a 1965 Chevelle for that

Yep, new cummings lift pump, and a low pressure light from diesel performance products, and a cam shaft position sensor, just because. I did it my self, w a lil help from a friend, and it wasn't that hard at all, took about 3hrs to assemble and it pretty much fired right up. Since im all stock the Cummings dealer said I didnt need to go with Fass or anything, and he gave me a 2 year warranty in the VP-in writing- And yes im putting in 2 cycle. Man, I just love how that cummings sounds!!!!!

After close to five months of people looking at my truck and not being able to fix it - It ran tonight!!!!!! It was the VP44, and so far everything seems good. I cant drive it yet tho cus one of the geniuses at the one shop picked up the front end of my truck with a fork truck and it crushed the steering stablizer, its another $40 which is really nuttn compared to the cash i forked out for the VP44 LOL!!!! Im just so happy its running right now tho nuttn can crush my buzz LOL!!!! I want to thank you all for the help, you all are really great!!! Ill let you know how it goes from here, and thanks againg for you all being here!!!