TooTallCTD

Well the banjo bolts and washers came in and I installed them. The fuel delivery error is gone but the dead pedal remains. I did the trans trick again. Heated it to 230 in the driveway then allowed it to cool and the truck drove fine. Absolutely 0 dead pedal. I'm officially at the end of my diagnostic ability now lol.

Finally got a breakthrough. Truck finally threw p0148 so I started in on the fuel system. First stop the inlet line to the cp3. Unbolt it on the IP and the O-rings are shot. So my question is do y'all know where I can find these O-ring washers?

While I was doing the testing in the driveway last night I got my trans temp up to 250-275 so the trans temp warning light flashed on my dash. After this happened the dead pedal went away completely. I shut the truck down and let it cool to 230 then I went for a drive. It did the normal limp mode shifts for a overheated trans until it cooled then everything was fine. I drove the truck for close to 2 hours and the problem never came back. Then I jump in the truck this morning to go to work and the problem is back and I can't get out of the driveway. Starting to think the thing is just possessed.

Finally got a live data tool on the truck and I checked the absolute throttle position and it doesn't fluctuate when the issue happens. All that changes is the load percentage. It drops completely to 0 since the truck is dropping back to idle.

So I did a little research on output speed sensors and their symptoms of failing. One of those symptoms was the cruise control not working. With my dead pedal issue if I have cruise control engaged it will knock the cruise out when the issue starts. With that information do you think this could be my issue? Sorry it's taken me so long to respond back. Work and the holidays have been keeping me mighty busy.

Wasn't able to work on the truck for a few days, but I got to tinker a bit today and got what I hope to be some valuable information. The issue will consistently present itself at about 1800 rpm in drive but not in park or neutral. So I did this a few times just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. Now as you can imagine doing this raised my trans temp pretty quick as it wasn't able to shift. Once the trans got to 185+ the problem was consistent from idle onwards in drive and reverse. I didn't test in reverse at 1800 rpm but I'm assuming the same results. So this leads me to believe it is in the trans. Any ideas guys?

I've got to go back out after lunch. I'll pull the field leads and give it a shot. What does pulling the field leads do?

I tried unhooking the wires to my intake heater yesterday just to see if it helped with it out of the system. After I unhooked the wires I turned the ignition on and the fuel pump was only working at a third of the speed as usual and my Edge Evolution couldn't communicate through my OBD port. The screen said to make sure the ignition was on like it wasn't getting a signal from the ECM. Do the wires connected to the grid heater double as signal wires for the ECM?

I also keep reading that something in the transmission could cause this problem. Mine is an automatic and was recently rebuilt and I wasn't having these problems until I got it back. What is in the trans that could cause this issue? I ask because I just left to go to the gas station and on the way back it started the problem on a hill. After it finally finished it's episode it wouldn't down shift to first on it's on or when I did it. So I had to back down the hill and get a running go to climb it.

I've been doing some more reading and what do you think about it potentially being the fuel control actuator? Also I'm trying to get in touch with a friend of mine to see if he has a live data tool as I do not.

Checked the alternator it's good. Putting out .010-.012. A bad grid heater wouldn't cause this would it. Looking more and more like a ECM for me. Would having the ECM flashed help?

I'll check it when I get home. I do have a code for intake heater voltage low. I'm honestly thinking of deleting the grid heater anyway. Is there away to do it without the delete block?

Drove the truck all afternoon yesterday with 0 problems. Fired it up to come to work this morning 38-40 degrees outside and the dead pedal came back once the truck warmed up.

Well I was greeted with the dead pedal issue again this morning for the first time in over a week. Alternator is good, grounds are good, terminals just replaced. I'm at wits end with this thing. Also the last time it gave the dead pedal issue was a cold morning. This is the first cold morning I've had since the "fix". What could relate this problem to cold weather?

So not sure which of these fixed the issue but here we go. My rebuilders gave me another alternator (Bosch this time). But before I installed it I decided to change my battery cable end (they looked great but inside was a different story). So I bust the lead ends off the cables and inside was very very corroded so I use corrosion cleaner and a wire brush and clean them up. Hook everything back up and BOOM dead pedal gone everything working great! MoparMan thank you for all your help! I will add that with the fan on high I'm getting a vibration in my pedals.

I'm really starting to get upset with my rebuilding guys. They keep arguing with me that the way I checked for AC voltage is wrong and that isn't how you check for AC ripple. They gave me another alternator to try so wish me luck.

Just confirmed the only in gear aspect of mine as it ran all the way to WOT in park but didn't even make it to 1000 rpm before it cut out in reverse and in drive. Also with the dead pedal issue not going away completely with the field leads unplugged does that guarantee a fried ECM?

I just re-read the Tslaney thread about dead pedal. Thought I would mention that my truck doesn't have the dead pedal issue in park or neutral.

That sounds great! I'd love to have the rebuild kit to do it myself. I tried unplugging the field leads the dead pedal issue didn't go away completely but it was A LOT better. I actually made it halfway around the block before it did it.

Gotcha. So not sure if you can give me an answer to this question, but with that much AC voltage what are the chances it fried my ECM? Also is that a picture of a alternator you had?

It has new brushes and winding from what I can tell but I'm not sure if they did the diodes which would still allow the A/C noise, correct?

Couldn't figure out how to get rid of the quote boxes on my phone, but I should have bench tested it there. I had my wife pick it up since I had to go back to work for a bit. Once I got home I installed it and it still read 1.9vAC and the dead pedal was still there. Looks like I'm going back tomorrow.

Thank you for the quick response. I'll pick one up when I get off work and let you know how things go. Had the alternator bench tested and it failed, the guys I use to rebuild my stuff said only a 2 hour wait to have it done. So instead of buying another and hoping it works I just had them rebuild mine

Dynamic is correct it is a pretty common issue with the 3rd gens. I had to replace my OD housing on my 48RE after a bad universal joint cracked it. I replaced the universal joints and everything was great until I laid into the throttle to change lanes and BOOM dropped the entire drive line from the tail of the OD housing back. Luckily no damage to the T-case, just had to do drive shaft universals again and replace the OD housing. I've thought about running one of these supports but as Dynamic said drive shaft universal maintenance is the best way to avoid this problem. I check mine every time I change my oil!

Ok so if I did my AC ripple test correctly I have a bad alternator. I flipped my meter to vAC and measured with the red lead on the battery terminal on the alternator and the black lead on the body ground for the passenger battery. I measured 1.9vAC! I was astounded at this reading which is why I wanted to confirm with you guys that I did my test correctly. I left both batteries connected and measured with the red lead on the battery terminal of the alternator and the black lead on the passenger side body ground as I said earlier. If this is the correct way has anyone encountered ACv this high before? Should I be concerned about my ECM being shot after a reading this high? Everything else on the truck behaves correctly except the dead pedal issue. No hard start in the morning or other symptoms of a bad ECM that I've read in other places. I would also like to add that right before the dead pedal problem presented itself my car stereo speakers began cutting out at higher volumes. Not sure if this could be caused by high AC ripple voltage.