Wild and Free

Color of both of mine all depends on the season here lol. Lets just call it earthly. When I do my annual or biannual cleansing I find one is silver and one is Burgundy/silver two tone. Didn't buy either for the color the color came with the good to me deal I found when I bought them.

$15k will get you a really nice newer low hour 4x4 utility or subcompact tractor mfg of your choosing with a loader, then most have backhoe options for them that are quite impressive from what i have seen. If you are doubting it skip it better options than a dedicated backhoe unless you are going to do sideline work with it which could pay back quite quickly, if just for personal use pass.......

Not having three point and or PTO is also a downer with dedicated backhoes. If it was a utility tractor some have pto and three point but are rare. I would pass and find a tractor that one can use other attachments on. Nothing wrong with the older case backhoes they are really good units cheap and easy to repair but limited use is what would keep me from pulling the trigger plus the size if you have a smaller acreage.

This pretty much sums up the last several days in my neck of the woods. Hettinger is roughly 100 miles sw of my house. I have seen pics of peoples thermometers showing -50 to -55 last night in low lying areas of western ND. I have been sitting and tending the wood stove the last 3-4 days. Today I ventured out for a 6 mile run after it warmed up to around -10*f lol.

For the price one is still WAYYYY ahead of the game even if they only last 30K miles in my world of driving mostly gravel roads, even for the non kedge grip. I am wondering what i will get for miles on the current c rated 265-70-17 VS the last set of D rated 285's which went 40K with probably a couple thousand towing miles in there.

Can't beat em for the price in my book, Did you get the kedge grip? I am really seeing the benefitt of it the last couple weeks now that we have some snow on the roads, can tell the traction and braking is much better. I was a skeptic on this but now like it having experienced it even if it does lessen tire life a bit according to them.

This was on my 2010 Hemi EVIC display Wednesday morning on my way to work. Supposed to see the same temps the next 2-3 nights with some wind to boot. Talking -50 and colder wind chills.

We are just getting into the cold right now The next couple days our highs will be double digits below zero for 2-3 days over the weekend. The Black hills area is always the warm spot in the area, its widely joked about but true that lots of North Dakotans move "South" to the Black hills for retirement and for the warmer climate lol.

I used to run a 5K gen with extension cords run all over the house from the generator outside and had to do as you did and continuously swap around to different appliances every few hours but then did a home improvement project and added a transfer switch along with a 98% efficient 110v propane furnace and got a 6500 watt gas powered generator that has 30 amp 240 hookup now and can now run all the critical circuits I needed through the transfer switch box and do not need to worry. Have run this for a week straight already during power outage a few years ago with no issues and a couple times with a day or two power outage.I have rural water so do not need to worry about running anything that is 220-240v anyhow although i could if need be. I do have a well too but only use it for watering garden and lawn when needed and or if need be emergency backup I can switch the house to well water with the flip of 3 ball valves.

Just throwing this out there for those who do not know that all new brake pads must be "Burnished" or worn in for ultimate brake performance. Coming from the heavy mining, construction and ag equipment side of the world this is a common "Must Do" procedure on all dry brake pads be it drum or disc but you all most likely do not know that it should be done on ALL vehicles with drum or disc brakes. There are different ways of doing it but all have the same results. rather than typing it out I will just post up a couple different procedures. Enjoy and hopefully you all learned something new and hopefully it will lead to safer braking for everyones sake. If one looks it up there are tons of videos and info on it. I see posts of weak brakes and other brake issues but never see this brought up. Coming from the heavy equipment side of the world failing to do this can lead to decreased braking efficiency up to and over 30-40% and I have seen it many many times on scrapers. http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/en-US/Technical/Documents/Brake%20Pad%20and%20Shoe%20Break-In%20Procedure.pdf http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/tech-tip-brake-burnishing-procedures-for-new-brake-pads-or-shoes/ At Bendix, we highly recommend that new pads and shoes be broken in properly. After every brake job the technician should first confirm that he has a good brake pedal by gently stroking the pedal to move the wheel cylinders and caliper pistons back out to the normal position. After confirming a good pedal, the follow burnish procedure should be used during the test drive: 30/30/30 Burnish Procedure • Perform 30 stops from 30 miles per hour with a 30-second cooling interval between stops. These stops will be performed at a decelerating rate of 12 feet per second or less. This means that it should be a gentle easy stop. • The 30/30/30 Burnish Procedure beds the pads and shoes into the rotor and drums. It also deposits the necessary friction transfer to the rotors and drums for optimum brake performance. • Following this procedure also assures that your customer will have excellent brake performance from the first time he or she drives the car after brake service has been performed. You should not depend on your customer to break in the brake job. The only way to assure that it is done correctly is to incorporate it into your brake job test drive. Remember, proper burnishing assures a long lasting, high performing, noise free brake job! Courtesy of Bendix by Honeywell. For more information and brake tips, visit www.bendixbrakes.com.

Had an 83 Chevy 1500 6.2 diesel in High school and it was two tone black top and lower body with brighter blue color similar to the color surrounding the text box here through the mid body are, was very sharp pickup paint scheme and it was known as the "Bruze" like a black and blue mark lol.

They must have tweaked the laws since I lived there while going to college. At that time in 92-93 they had no fault laws where if the chain laws were enacted and you were involved in an accident and did not have chains on you were the party cited with the incident no matter if you were at fault or not. Us techers made some good coin at the truck stops in Laramie when the chain laws were in effect. After class and if on a weekend several of us would team up in pairs and charge 25 bucks an axle per truck and we had trucks lined up, could do about 5-6 axles an hour. Paid for the beer fund lol.

Wyoming does have chain laws that are posted along the roads when needed, South Dakota, North Dakota and Montana do not have requirements to use them. http://www.tirechainsrus.com/tire-chains-laws.html

Might want to keep up on this fire. http://www.kotatv.com/content/news/Legion-Lake-fire-breaks-out-of-Custer-State-Park-463790383.html