agrossm

To follow up, I got the brakes put back together yesterday. The 7500lb pads fit and the truck seems to stop fine, although I still have concerns about the weight rating on them. I thought the same thing and gently applied the brakes to push the piston out a few times. I would also apply pressure with the c-clamp and wait a few seconds and then apply more pressure. My problem was that the piston was bottomed out, which I proved by buying a re-man'd caliper. I'm just frustrated w/ NAPA and the fact that all the "Right" parts they sold me didn't fit.

Yesterday I had a horrible vibration while braking so when I got home I pulled the front tires and found my pads and rotors where shot. I've only had the truck a little over 6 months and never checked them (my fault).So, I went to NAPA and spent $250 on rotors, pads, seals, and grease. I started w/ the passengers side first since it was the worst. I cleaned and repacked the wheel bearings and installed the new rotor (my truck is 2WD). When I went to install the new pads and the caliper they simply would not fit. I compressed the piston in the caliper w/ a c-clamp as far as it would go and still couldn't get it to fit. Now I'm thinking my caliper is bad, the piston is scored or debris is in it and that's why the passengers side was the worse. So, I head to NAPA, they are closed, so now to O'Riely (my second choice). I pick up a new caliper, go home and still the same problem.Long story short I just got home from NAPA this morning. I took all the parts and had them double check. I've got all the right parts according to them. Their only suggestion was to install 7500 GVWR pads. I took the 7500 pads b/c we've got a winter storm coming and I want to get the truck off the jack stands and out of the driveway. Here's a list of the NAPA parts I purchased yesterday:Pads: ss-7339mRotor/Hub Assymb: 4886452Wheel Seals: 21756The pads they gave me today are p/n ss-7260mThe 7260 pads appear to be almost identical to the 7339 except the steel plate for the inboard pad isn't soild where it slides into the caliper and the pads are not as thick.The sticker in my door clearly states that the truck has a 8800 lb GVWR. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm at a loss as to what to do. There has to be a reason why they make two different rated pads and I'm afraid to drive the truck now (especially w/ a load) until I get this resolved. In the mean time I need to get it out of the way so my wife can get her car in the garage.Any help or advise is appreciated greatly.

The switch is a 3 position double pole on-on-on switch. I bought it at Gateway Electronics in St. Louis; I found Gateway while searching for molex plugs and pins for a project at work. The switch itself is not all that complicated, it has six pins and is double pole. Depending on what position the switch is in it makes the three pins for each pole in a different configuration. It just took a few minutes with a meter to get it figured out. Here's a link to a switch similar to the one I purchased. I only paid $3 or so at Gateway. http://www.guitarcenter.com/DiMarzio-3-Position-On-On-On-DPDT-Mini-Switch-424668-i1134703.gc

I finished my fooler the day after x-mas. I managed to find a 3 position on-on-on switch for the fast idle and a project box that fit perfectly in my ashtray. My only screw-up was on the label for the "Normal" on the fast idle side (the L doesn't show). In hindsite I wish I would have gone "Normal" on the bottom, "3 Cyl." in the middle and "6 Cyl." on the top; that way both switches would have been down in the Normal position. Today was the first time I tried, even after I drove the truck to NAPA to get a headlamp for my wife's car, it fast idled with the switches in the "6 Cyl." and "123F" positions. I thought this was a one time shot at start up, but for grins I thought I'd give it a try this afternoon. I did not shut the truck off and re-start and it was at operating temperature. I thought it was kinda cool, I was under the impression that I had to restart the truck to get the 6 Cyl. fast idle to re-initiate.

Now that it is getting colder outside I'm preparing to change oil in my truck. I live in Illinois just East of St. Louis. Occasionally the temps will fall below 10*F which is out of the 15w-40 range according to the chart. I'm curious what some of you guys do regarding oil changes and viscosity? Do you change oil in the fall to 10w-30 and then again in the spring back to 15w-40? I know I can buy 5w-40 but all I've seen is a full synthetic. I only put about 6k on my personal truck in a year, so when I had my gasser I would change oil at the 3k mark. I've only got about 2500 miles on this truck since the last oil change. I hate to change oil unnecessarily but again I don't want to damage the engine. I guess if I went to the 5w-40 full synthetic I could get away with changing oil once a year, but I am leery of doing it. I've never used a full synthetic in my vehicles and changing oil only once a year makes me a little nervous. What are your thoughts??

Well, I just picked up my truck from the dealer after having the 3/6 cylinder fast idle (thank you for the correction) enabled. They got me for 122 dollars. I am anxious to see it work! I'll test it w/ a resistor tonight or tomorrow when the engine cools down. I ordered the electrical plugs the other day (sorry prowelder, I plan on building myself); I'm thinking about concealing the switches in the ashtray. I haven't looked into the feasibility all that much, but I think I may be able to make a plate to fit in it and mount the switches there. Thanks to all the advice I am going to get a fuel pressure gauge instead of the idiot light. It's just a matter of saving the money at this point (had to buy the wife a new stove this weekend, guess I'll start over w/ the saving).As an aside, I found a key fob in the glove box after I bought the truck. I replaced the batteries and couldn't get the thing to unlock or lock the doors. So, while the truck was at the dealer today I asked them to see if they could program it while they had the DRBIII connected. They told me the fob was good but the CTM would not take the code. They didn't charge me an extra, but they said that most likely the CTM would need to be replaced. What are your thoughts on this?? One last thing, from the TSB:Both features will automatically disable when one of the following occurs: 1. The Automatic Transmission is placed in gear (forward or reverse) or, 2. The Service Brake pedal is depressed or, 3. Throttle position is greater than 0% or, 4. Vehicle Speed is greater than 0 mph or, 5. Coolant Temperature is greater than 79°C (175°F). Is the service brake pedal what I would call the parking brake? My truck is a manual transmission and I always set the parking brake when idling. Does this mean I cannot use the parking break when using the fast idle or does this only apply to automatics?Thanks for all the advice and help.

That is on my x-mas list. I wasn't going to get trans. temp though b/c I have a manual transmission. I was going to get Pyrometer and Boost w/ the BD Diesel low fuel pressure light.

Thanks all for the info. I think I'll schedule an appointment w/ the local Dodge dealer to have this option enabled. Then I'll start saving for a fooler. Any other recommendations for a new diesel owner?

I just bought my truck a few months ago, this is my first diesel and I am very happy with it. I've been looking into getting the high idle and 3 cylinder high idle enabled on it and getting the fooler as I am tired of waiting for it to warm up. My concern is does the 3 cylinder high idle wear 3 cylinders more than the other 3? Does the firing order alternate when in 3 cylinder high idle? I just don't want to tear the engine up. I would think that if Cummins included this in the software that it would be ok to use, after all they are the experts.