DanByrd2

Update: Multifunction switch was bad. 60 bucks later, everything works. Also, 2 of those butt connectors were loose, which was causing some chaos. Also, I ordered and installed a new fluidampr. New ess got put on and now the tach seems to work fine!

And they are aftermarket LED's from superbrightleds.com, so of course that wiring isn't factory either.

Bit of an update. I installed the new CPS today. I did regain the tach but it is definitely inaccurate. I believe the harmonic balancer is fubar, from a bird's eye view it seems to have a good wobble to it, which I assume is causing the tach to be inaccurate. Didn't run the truck long enough to see if the AC works. The harmonic balancer has me creeped out. I did shed some wiring tonight. The middle two switches I traced to some aftermarket rear lights. Pulled all that garbage out. At some point the PO had a stereo system hooked up. I traced all that wiring and yanked it out too. Under looks a lot better now. Still no luck with the headlights yet, I checked all fuses and everything was fine. I check all the spliced wires with a test light and only found one wire to that is hot, and it is hot all the time.... I looked at the wiring diagram moparman posted in the above referenced forum post. None of the wiring colors my harness has matched the diagram. I threw in the towel tonight, tomorrow I will try again.

Well, I was assuming otherwise. A gentleman on comp-d informed me I have a PCM for a 98 12v 5 speed, after finding all those connectors I was thinking the PO spliced in a 12v harness to a 24v light switch. I felt like that switch was the same as my old 24v, but I'm not 100% positive. It also makes sense that it has a 98 12v harness, because at some point the PO installed a 12v harmonic balancer. The CPS sensor is for a 98 12v. My new sensor will be here tomorrow, I'm hoping I will gain a tach & AC after I install it. If it doesn't fix the ac/tach, I'm honestly considering selling it and getting something that's not as Frankenstein... But the other part of me sees the thousands upon thousands someone has put into it already, hard to let go of a truck that has all the base upgrades done already. Sorry, I never answered your question. The far left switch I've only managed to get it to do anything 1 time. I turned the ignition off and the Airdog kept running, flipped that toggle and the Airdog turned. Other than that one occurrence I don't know what it's function is. That was also the only time the Airdog has done that. The smaller switch, 2nd to left, I was told is for the exhaust brake. The 3rd bigger switch I have no clue what it does, I've flipped it on/off numerous times and I haven't seen it do anything. The far right toggle switch seems to bog down the engine when it's switched on. I don't know what it does but when I flip it on, the engine bogs down for a split second and then smooths out. One day, when patience is abundance, I'll give all this an honest effort to trace all this electrical out. Tonight was not the night.

Orange wire goes into a rats nest of wiring. 4 switches, with wiring that seem to intermingle with each other, via relays? Failed inspection due to no high beam indicator on dash, fixed that problem. Asked the wife to drive my truck to get it inspected again, this time no headlights at all, but they worked over the weekend. Pulled out the dimmer deal and found this

Yea that's one of the problems, cluster works intermittently at best.

It is a G56. And yes you must have missed it, the cluster works intermittently at best, and "work" is a relative term. The video explains it all

No kidding. I googled gauge clusters and eBay is one of the first listings. One of the sellers advertises "pick your mileage"... Lol. On a more serious note, I went to get the truck inspected today and shot a video of the gauge cluster and what my Obdlink MX was seeing. The only code being thrown is IMG_0075.MOV IMG_0075.MOV 1492. Battery temp sensor. IMG_0075.MOV

No horn, just a compressor and small tank, hoses run all over. I was in the middle of trying trace all this rats nest and the neighbors came over. The factory cup holder in the dash flops down into the shifter and renders it unuseable. Pretty sweet, and the guy told me the cluster is not the original. I assume because the guy who did all this work didn't want the gear indicator on the cluster?? Or maybe it was causing issues, I dont know.

Hmm, it does have an exhaust brake. I completely forgot it too, until I read your post.

Can anyone tell me what this is? I was tracing the rats nest of wires I inherited and found this. That spring extends behind the accelerator pedal. I might add I'm almost positive this truck was born an automatic and now has a G56

I'm almost considering saving up a chunk of money and taking it somewhere very reputable with electrical. The mechanical side of things I'm comfortable with, electrical I'm not. I ordered new battery terminals last night, I plan on doing WT's mod. Then I may try n figure out what all this mess is. Or I may let someone knowledgeable do it for me... I

Just dreading what I have in my future. I don't remember having all this mess of wire everywhere in my previous truck. Ugh... Battery terminals have screws jammed in them on the passenger side to keep everything snug. Driver side positive post must have 5 additional lugs hooked to it.

Well, I did the gauge cluster test and received every code there is

Ehh, I'm not sure that the current one is bad, I'm looking for insight on how to diagnose it. Also, I'm curious about the cluster displaying the proper rpm's with a completely different transmission. I also forgot to mention the truck was born an automatic. Which may be another factor in everything. I discovered that bit of knowledge when my son tried opening the 2nd set of cup holders (clue #1) and they hit the shifter. Part of me want to replace the whole dash so it's a little more "normal" and not so Frankenstein.