jerricuda

Thanks, I was actually headed for the axle bearings next. No phasing needed on drive line. Si x States just built and balanced me a bang up one piece when I installed my od this spring. So that’s a rule out. I hope that the bearings do it as I have read dozens of forums that all end up with solutions ranging from track bar to trailer hitches and have been wondering why no one seems to look a diff. I did read one reply somewhere that a guy had changed his rear end and fixed the problem. That’s a little too vague for me as I need to know what and why. I hate parts changers as I have seen so many supposedly qualified shops through the years replace too many parts for people and then say it was a combination of all this instead of admitting what really happened was they kept throwing parts at it until the problem was found and repaired. That’s why I have always done my own repairs It makes a man think and do a little research before spending his own money. I have to admit though that I have replaced or rebuilt more than I have needed to trying to build what I want for the non- existent perfect truck.

1998.5 Dodge 3500 4.10 axle dually 19.5 Eagle alloy wheels with new custom steel inner rims, bead balanced tires. new drivelines trans. mount, rebuilt NV4500, DNE od. 3" leveling front 2" blocks rear. vibration in rear noticeable around 55 mph - 70 mph. enough to shake the mirrors, bed welds cracking at rear, and jingle anything in door pockets. I have visited several forums with same issue but never heard of a resolve for this. This is NOT FRONT END, TIRE, OR DRIVE LINE ISSUE. Seems like every time I read about someone having this exact same problem there are dozens of helpful people pointing at everything but the actual problem. I can take my hands off the wheel at 100 and it tracks true, I just cant drive at 100 all the time. It feels like oscillation or out of balance in rear tires, but that's not the problem. I have changed the tires, wheels balanced and re-balanced and nothing changes. I am thinking something in the rear end but cant pinpoint it. No leaks, good brakes, Bosch drums proper oil and LS additive. There must be someone that has actually figured out what this problem is. I have searched many forums about people with the same issue only to watch it turn into a hijacked discussion about what to do about a death wobble. Any actual experience with this would be helpful.

Piller is mechanical both maps I have are used and give totally different symptoms. Original worked fine but truck slowly started blowing black at low acceleration while on a road trip but never threw a code. So of coarse I went through injectors and turbo and updated my quadzilla control to the Iquad. (Needed the practice). Yesterday I did a leak check on the turbo and then decided to try the map sensor from a core engine that I bought, and it threw a cel right away but my smoke issue went away. Been a few years since the truck has seen a new one so what the heck. I am not usually a parts changer when it comes to mechanical issues but I did a recent overhaul and figured I might as well put a couple of be sensors on now.

Built a tester and checked system for leaks. Found a couple in places that surprised me. Really nothing major. Biggest was on the turbo itself around the o-ring between the cartridge and aluminum housing. Not a lot that I can do about it right now. Went for test drive and still puffing night camo. I have been watching pillar gauges normally but happened to look at the turbo boost in the iquad and see that it is only showing 2 or 3 lbs. when the puller gauge shows 25-30. Went to my core engine and swapped map sensors. Instantly threw a cel. Went for a test drive and Not a lot of power as to be expected. However this one shows 0 boost and best if all no smoke. I am guessing I have two bad map sensors. One reads light boost and the other 0. I don’t have a code reader but I am betting new map should fix my problem.

Was able to do the flash on mama’s computer. Loaded specs for daily driver from Quadzilla website. Didn’t change smoke issue. Found a couple of loose bolts on intake plate. I plan to do a pressure test tonight to eliminate any turbo leaks.

I Just bought an IQuad and of course I am unable to load any tunes on the ADR1000 I plan to send it in tomorrow to get it updated but am unsure which tune to have loaded. If I have the factory tune loaded will I be able to add a custom tune like the Daily Driver?

Thanks for the input and info. Sometimes it pays to stop regroup and start over. I was letting crazy side effects cloud simplicity. Walked up started to trace grounds and the first one I checked was the problem . Passenger side battery tray quick connect 10 gauge wire was not fully seated in the connector. I had not taken it apart so i didn't bother to check it before and it looked to be seated. Pushed it together and problem solved. Thanks for the help. Now if I can just get the smoke cleared up It may be driveable and ready for tow. I suspect my hot rod pump has issues. Too much black leaving stop light no matter how easy I leave or how light the tune. Has kind of a lopey miss at idle after warmup. tried both the stock turbo and my Airwerks not much smoke difference but noticeable egt and power difference

I have a 1998 3500 4X4 dually 24 valve fresh rebuild (3k miles) Industrial injection Hot Rod 44, Hamilton springs, 120 BD sticks, Air dog 150, Quadzilla , 5" exh. , Packbrake, DNE2 OD, NV4500, SB DD clutch, S&B intake & filter. Just installed Custom Airwerks turbo close to Silver Bullet in specs. Loaded trailer went from Boise to Portland and back and towed great. Only issue I had was too much black smoke for my liking at low end. by the time i got back the smoke was getting worse. Went through my injectors but no change ( easy to make all traffic vanish in my rear view mirror with pretty light to medium throttle . Decided that maybe turbo seals were leaking as adjusting tuner doesnt seem to do anything. Put stock turbo back on until I could get the new seal kit installed, which I did Monday after work. When I tried to start the truck I didnt hear the fuel pump cycle so I went to check my work and noticed that I had pulled the Negitive wires from the Batt. terminal Pass. side. Reinstalled cleaned tightened all terminals. No fuel pump no gauges no screen on my Quadzilla. (pv2) Pump is good Did the odometer check with key and got 900 920 921 940 950 999 codes, let it gauge test and all gauges moved through proper ranges. All dummy lights come on and she cranks. There is one odd thing I noticed. when the key is off the WTS light comes on faintly . turn ign. on and light goes out. I can make the light clear by removing battery cables or ECM plug. Turn ignition switch on light will return until power is removed again. Maybe PCM or injection pump? I dont think it is the ECM, but I put my spare ECM on and with key pump comes on but will not stop until power is removed and WTS light and no gauges still th same. I hate these wtf just happened issues.