lcmartin

Yeah an edge j w/ a

i've decided i need to wake the truck up again but would like to do it on a budget. i'd add affordable 100 or 125 hp sticks pry from dap, cpp, or fbd (i've heard mixed reviews from sdx). then keep the box turned down and take it easy til i do an aftermarket exhaust manifold and turbo upgrade. my ? is would it be worth it to take my stock turbo and turn it into an hx40/35 hybrid or should i save my $ and go with a 62/65 or something similar later down the road. i was also curious what egts i may see with the hybrid and how i would know if i'm getting into drive pressure trouble or not? truck is mostly a dd and i'm sure a clutch upgrade will be in the not too distant future as well.

just tried what you said timbo and it took out the miss completely. Now just to wire a switch in the dash so the grid heaters are functional when i need them to be and im set. Then i just gotta fix the old mans problems. He might have a different issue bc when i unplug his iat sensor there's no difference to his miss. Unless the 02s ecm is programmed slightly different. He doesnt have guages so its a little harder to tell what his ecm is reading.

Alright thanks. Just wanted to make sure

So my pressures are 16-17 idle, 13-14 wot, works great while im on the road but when the truck sits it loses all fuel pressure.every time i before i start it, the fp gauge usually reads 0, 1, or 2 but it starts fine and the fp jumps right back up. bumping the key will get 17 psi for those 25 seconds, then it'll drop back to 0. should i be checking something out or am i worrying over nothin

so heres the latest on this thread. i pulled the iat sensor and drove it around a little bit. the miss is still there but not nearly as often and not as noticeable when it does happen. with the sensor unplugged the intake air reads 114 deg. then i tried the same thing with my old mans and it made no difference to his. now my question is if the ecm reads a colder temp does it advance the timing too far in my case? then someone told me the vp44 pump is keyed and if you get a new key you can advance or retard the pump up to a degree or two without having to mess with the ecm and not messing stuff up. has anyone heard of this? what does it entail? and is it worth it or is there an easier way to retard the timing besides putting a resistor in the iat?

so what if you just want to retorque them down the road, what might be a good number? 115-125 ft lbs?

so i'm looking for the data link for cummins insite. i think dodges before 2005 have a 3 pin deutsch connector somewhere in the front of the engine according to cummins quickserve website but it doesnt specify exactly where. the pins 02, 12, and 42 coming off the ecm are supposed to be the wires i need but i dont see them coming out of the wire loom anywhere. any ideas?

Haha yeah i shouldve clarified more. the ignition is on, the drb3 communicates with the ecm, pcm, and other control modules, unless i tell it to do something it doesn't want to, then it pops up that message. generic scan tools work just fine as well.

so i wanna turn on the cold weather high idle on my truck and have access to a drb3 with all the chrysler software. when i go to turn it on it refuses to connect with the ecm, then i read somewhere it wants you to have the latest update before it'll let you make those changes. so far the drb3 has only been used as a scantool so no one has any idea how to reflash it. from my understanding i need a memory card with the update software on it, but not sure where or how to get it. i also have numerous cds with the title ITIL/ISIS from chrysler but i think these just updates for the drb3 itself and don't contain updates for vehicle ecms. however correct me if i'm wrong, lookin for some info, thx

New question. I was cruising cummins quickserve online to resolve this problem, after checking multiple fuel related issues, most of which i should have ruled out already, it said to recalibrate the ecm. What does that mean, reflash it or get a new ecm? I do wanna check the turbo first just bc I havent seen it in awhile. Also is there a chance the electronic governor is too aggressive and is there any way to change that? Bc it seems like it happens mostly when i let off the clutch and lug it just slightly but it will still miss with my foot in it on its way up the powerband. Also I can see my APPS percentage drops a few points when it misses, I reset it with no results. I should do some more testing with that too to see if its the sensor or the ecm. Anyway theres several questions in there, what do you guys think?

well i pulled the alternator but couldnt make it work on the test bench so i put it back on and left it disconnected. ran the truck a few miles and still got the same miss.

the miss is definitely still there. i have a trailer i'm towing tomorrow, i think i'm going to unplug the chip again and see what happens. if i remember right last time i did you could still feel it sputter just a little bit. nowhere near as noticable with the chip on though. also just had a thought, could this be a fuel temperature problem? neither me or dad has a fuel heater since we both have aftermarket lift pumps with the half in line going into the injection pump. but if it was that shouldn't it fix itself after a while of returning warm fuel to the tank?

checked this afternoon and the iat and coolant temp matched up with ambient temp on startup. thanks for your writeups btw moparman. i did the injectors start to finish with your article.

yeah its still there just not nearly as noticable i'll have to check the next time i drive it, the attitude should pick that up i believe right?

i've pulled the battery cables and cleaned them up before. fp is 16 on idle, drops to 12 with a load and foot on the throttle. no codes on either of them. forgot to mention the old man has a fass 100 lift pump on his truck.

Ok here goes, i have my truck (in the sig) that has a noticable miss when the air temperature is below 40 deg or so. The colder it gets, the worse it is. But it only happens when the engine is under a slight load, not at idle, not at wot. The higher the chip is turned up the more noticable it is also. When the outside temp get above 50 or so I can turn the chip up as far as I want and I'll never feel it.Now my dad's truck is an '02, 6 spd, has a 70 hp bully dog chip on it also does the same thing. Not as noticable but its definitely there when it gets cold or when you throw a trailer behind it. My dad's spent a lot of time at different shops trying to figure this out. My neighbor's '01, 6 spd, edge ez, same miss. No codes on any of them.After doing a lot of reading and research a lot of ppl suggested a high pressure leak inside the head whether due to bad o-rings, crushed injector tubes, or maybe even bad injectors. Today I put new rv275 injectors in my dads truck with new tubes and o-rings as well. Felt pretty good when i test drove it this afternoon even with the trailer behind it. But i was skeptical and sure enough another terst drive this evening with a slightly colder temp confirmed it was still there. So its back to the drawing board, I'd like to get this fixed or else there's no reason to sink any more money into my truck looking for performance if its gonna keep missing. Just read on another forum to test the alternator, it might be sending a voltage spike. Luckily I'm a diesel tech in training so I have a test bench to use but I'm open to any suggestions. I figured if our 3 trucks have the same problem somebody else out there has to as well and know how to fix it. Thanks in advance for any help