Gary L Moore

Thank you much, I will order the cord then..

The last time it was this cold, it ran between -15 and -30 for nearly a week. The Fass is also mounted on the side of the frame rail and is not insulated at all from the cold. It probably could not hurt to relocate the thing. Does wind chill even effect something like this? It seems it would because it would because more air movement would pull more heat.

And there is no choice but for the truck to sit outside, It is too long for the garage I had forgotten about the return fuel, that would warm the fuel in the tank, huh? The advice for the Fass Heater is to install the element above the water separator because the water will freeze before the fuel will gel, but that does not solve the problem of the fuel in the tank. They have the stick on silicone pads that plug in like a block heater. I have seen on YouTube where they will put them\ on the bottom of the oil pan to keep the oil warm. Good Ide

Well, I ohmed it at the plug , wouldn't that do it? If I was shorted from a rub, wouldn't the circuit be open?

My block heater is tripping breakers in the house. I ohmed it out and it falls in an acceptable range. It has been a while since I did it, but I think the reading was about 19 ohms. What ever it was, from the research I had done the reading was acceptable. I would think that if I had a rub thru in the wire that would give me an open reading. The extension cord I used to get there has been starting snowblowers and running circular saws recently with no problem. Any ideas? Or just replace it?

Has anyone installed one of these? Will this actually prevent gelling say at deep negative temps? My fuel froze last year at -30 even with fuel treatment. At those temps isn't there the chance that the fuel would gel before the lift pump? I would install if it would actually prevent the gelling, but I figure there is a point below freezing where it will not matter.

I have ordered the bearings..

Yeah, I understand how that goes. Ok.. I appreciate the help. I am going to look for the wheel bearings and hubs now. Cannot get the Timkens locally, will have to order. Gary

Is there a way to confirm that is the problem, can it be seen? I am going to have them replaced anyway. Is it possible to see while the hubs are still mounted that the ring has separated? thank you for all your help MM.

And that tone ring is welded on the back of the bearing?

T

Ok. I have not checked the wheel bearings yet. I am sorry to hear this, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. I sure cannot drive it safely like this.

Well it seems I was mistaken, filling the power steering unit did not fix the problem. The problem is coming from the ABS and It only happens when the fault light on the dash goes out. I had read that I can completely disconnect the ABS by unplugging the unit behind the glove box. Can anyone tell me which connector it is that I unplug? Thank you, Gary Moore

This is my second Dodge Diesel and I have never had to do anything to the brakes except change pads. I have changed injection pumps, recabled the batteries, changed the alternator and never noticed there was no brake booster. The power steering pump never made a sound, but the fluid is low. I filled it and will take it easy till I am sure that still solves the problem. I still have to figure out why my brake and abs lights are on. Thank you for the help.

I drove from Chicago to Indiana and visit my parents over the holiday. I had been in Indiana about 2 days, driving down the street coming to one of the worst intersections in town and pushed on the brakes and it was like pushing on a solid rock. I'd gotten both the ABS and the brake light for about 24 hours before that but I looked on the forums and no one seemed to be very concerned about it. So I didn't think much about it figure I'd fix it when I got home. While I was stopping and the brakes weren't responding I felt the brakes come back the pedal went down like it should and I w