copperdodge

That makes sense now that I think about it. So, when you undo the 4 bolts that hold the pump to the back of the canister, it's just a slip fit into the side of the canister (with an o-ring)? Still trying to figure this fuel system out...

So just unplug the LP and then try to start the truck again? Why won't it start with the fuel that's in the filter canister? I've only tried a few cranks, but it turns many turns & doesn't fire.

I'm planning on re-doing the fuel system with a Raptor and 2um filtration at some point, but right now, I need to get the DD back up & running. The other complicating factor is that I just had shoulder surgery on July7th and I am not a very good mechanic right now since my left arm is about useless.I don't have funds or time or ability to get custom just yet... I just need to get it up & running so I can get to the doctor's appointments so I can do rehab and get back to working on my truck.If I am not hearing the lift pump, it's pretty well dead, right?

Coming home from a trip to the beach yesterday and had to ride the last 45 miles in the cab of the flatbed. Grrr... 2004 (early) Ram 2500 stickshift 2wd with no mods. Cruise control was set at about 80mph and truck lost power. Shut off the cruise, put the clutch in, long pedal gave no response except the truck sort of chugging & fluttering. Limped it to the shoulder in neutral. 85,000 miles on the clock as of yesterday morning.It's still the stock lift pump, and now when I bump the starter, the lift pump whirr that I used to hear is gone. Only thing I hear is that ticking noise from whatever that is. Starter turns the motor but it won't even hint that it's trying to fire. The code that pops up when I turn the key 3 times is Po533 (A/C sending unit volts too high). I have a feeling that's related to the entire A/C system being rebuilt about a month ago (don't ask).Anyhow, I thought that if the lift pump died and then the engine ran out of fuel, the filter canister should be empty? When I turn the yellow lever, fuel spills right out of the drain tube. I've got a test meter, but I don't really know how to use it. Electrical crap kicks my ___ every time, so bear with me when I start asking stupid questions...Tell me where to start.....

Went to dealer today & purchased nipple separately from the rest of the Lube Oil Cooler assembly. $31. You know that once I get this thing open & check it out, it'll be a $1.25 part from the plumbing aisle at Ace Hardware.But, I'd rather have the part on hand when I go to remove the oil filter this time, since this is my DD and it has to be up & running ASAP.Results to follow. Never thought I'd have enough information or knowledge to share on a site like this (with so many knowledgeable folks). Maybe I can contribute afterall...

Page 67 (their label says page 55) of this PDF is making it look pretty promising that the nipple unscrews from the "lube oil cooler" assembly. Guess I better get with the terminology here.... http://www.gessford.com/images/5.9 Cummins Manual-AERA Diesel parts.pdf

That would make my whole day.... after I cleaned up the lake of oil from the shop floor, I tried to tighten the filter (oil'd up of course). No go. Used a lot of brake cleaner to get things back to clean-ish. Managed to get some grip and MUSCLED the filter tighter & tighter until it finally started to spin free. I feared that i had stripped the threads entirely, but I noticed that while it was spinning freely, it was actually threading right in. So, I managed to get the gasket to contact the filter base and gave it another 1/4 turn (as I've read elsewhere). Fired the truck up, no leaks. I have a feeling that this was the last time I'll be able to get the filter on/off without having to replace something. At least it's driveable, but I am not comfortable with the situation as it sits right now...Anyone want to chime in & confirm if the threaded post will unscrew from the filter base?

Sorry to bring this back around.... is this true on Common Rail engines? I suspect that I have damaged my filter base. I removed my old filter and screwed on a new filter pretty tight, even though it would still spin a little bit. When I fired it up, it was leaking oil a little bit. When I went to take the filter off the base, the threads kept getting tighter & tighter. I finally gorilla'd the filter off the base. I swapped to a new filter.When I spun it on, it got really tight before the gasket ever contacted the filter base. I thought it might have been just my eyes & the poor angle, but when I fired up the truck, it shot about 2 gallons of oil onto the driveway before I could even shut it down.Can I unscrew the threaded post from the base, or do I have to buy a whole new base?Somebody help soon... this is my daily driver.Thanks.

Roger that... I'll call 'em.

So they won't ship a set & then wait for your cores? They need your cores first?

If you were to choose between dealer replacements from Dodge and a set of 50hp sticks from DDP, what would you do? I don't have the cash to do either option, but just curious....

I'm gonna say the tech is wrong... I'm not short shifting and the way I drive on the highway, it's not loading up/bogging down at all. I dont' have gauges yet, but whenever I get an open stretch in front of me, I'll accelerate until I get to the next car in front of me. Usually, on the interstates, I'm at 70-75-80 if I can help it and around town, I like to leave the traffic lights kinda quick. It's the drag racer in me.Now, the tech assured me that I'm not doing harm by continuing to drive it, but I'm not so sure.I went directly to the parts place & got the big bottle of Diesel Kleen and put most of it in the tank (filled up on #2 as well). This morning, I've already put about 60 miles on it and tried to use a little more pedal as well. It's idling a lot smoother, but if I've been sitting at a stop light for too long, that fuel knock (clackclackclack) still happens when I first let the clutch out. Other stoplights, there's no knock at all...I have a feeling that the Diesel Kleen is just masking the problem... I think I'm just going to go ahead & replace the injector if it's not any better by the end of this tank. I have a buddy at a Dodge dealer in Fla. who says he will get me a replacement unit at his cost. Then it's off to GDP to get the filter kit.

I've been eyeballing it every time before I turn the key. I'm going to try a new filter and some injector cleaner and maybe I'll hook up to our heaviest shop trailer & do some hills to get some EGT.Is that a mistake? I'm basing that off a post from MoparMan himself over on DieselBombers.com.PS- Also bear in mind that this condition never popped a code. He just plugged it up & the computer showed him it was #5.

I took it to the dealer to get a diagnostic and it's the nozzle on the #5 injector- sooted up. He told me something that I hadn't thought of... according to the data logs, the majority of my driving is in the 1-10% load range. He said that my commuting 25 miles in stop-N-go traffic each way to & from work isn't doing what the truck is designed for. He said that my little 8000 lb tool trailer that I haul 2-3 days a week isn't working the truck enough. He said that the truck is designed to do WORK and even putting it through its paces in Atlanta traffic and dragging trailers (including my 3200 lb Dodge Dakota to the dragstrip) is not working the truck with enough load. His opinion is that this will keep happening occasionally (the injector nozzles will continue to soot up) unless I work the truck harder.Is he right? Did I buy too much truck? In the meantime, he said that I need to run about 4 bottles of injector cleaner through it. If that doesn't work, then it's time to replace the injector.Last question- should I replace #5 injector with a reman injector or should I buy a new set of 6 from somebody like DDP? Or can I get away with new nozzles?

I do tow for a living, but it's towing a tool trailer with everything necessary to build houses for Habitat For Humanity. I don't have any insurance, and we are a non-profit that wouldn't even begin to sport me a rental on their dime. I can borrow a shop truck (one of 4) but there are already 2 other folks with trucks that are down. While my truck only has 60,000 miles on it, apparently it is just time to do injectors...What is everyone's opinion of running 50hp injectors on a stock motor? Will it just be a hot smoky mess?

the mechanic pulled the dipstick (truck was running) and smelled it really closely. He didn't think there was any fuel in the oil yet. But I'm pretty much driving a ticking time-bomb at this point? If the injectors leaks down over night, won't it hydraulic the motor?

I have already read the 2-3 injector threads posted in here in the past week or so and I think I am screwed.Let me back up a few steps... in the past 2-3 weeks, the truck (2004 QCLB stickshift) has been idling rough right as it starts up. Rough enough that it shakes the truck back & forth. for a while, this would last until the truck got warm. No smoke, no hard-start, just that rough idle.Then I took a 1000-mi highway round trip. After I arrived at the destination (500+mi), it was idling rough even after it warmed up. In fact, the warmer it got, the more it began to CLACKCLACKCLACK as I started the truck rolling. It would just clack until the truck started rolling and the load on the motor was relieved.Kept on driving til I got back home (no other symptoms and the truck does just fine at speed on the interstate), but now it CLACKCLACKCLACK's much further through 2nd gear and low in 3rd gear as I am driving in stop n go traffic.i took it to a diesel mechanic (Southern Truck Parts- where Jeff Garmon first started out MANY years ago) and he said it sounds like an injector. He also told me that they are on national backorder with Bosch for at least 2-3 weeks. I have several questions:1. This is my daily driver and I have no other vehicle. I tow with it every Saturday (Approx 7500 lb tool trailer). I can't have this thing waiting in some shop for 2-3 weeks waiting for a test & some new sticks. What do I do here?2. The truck is bone stock with a 4" turbo-back exhaust and an Air Raid intake tube on it. I was only planning on installing some gauges and a Smarty JR later this year. I was never planning on upgrading injectors. If I upgrade injectors (+50hp?) won't it start to smoke without some other supporting mods? I dont' have any smoke now and I don't want any smoke... If upgrading injectors will get me back on the road sooner, then what brand and what size? I don't have the money to just go out & get a bigger turbo to keep the smoke down, etc...3. Is there any way to determine which of the six injectors is failing? If I can buy a single stick, that'd obviously be cheaper...Help me out here.... what do I need to do for minimal downtime? Can I keep driving it while i am waiting on parts?yikes...:banghead:

Roger that....I don't see an option here that allows me to "THANK ALL PARTIES INVOLVED FOR ENTIRE THREAD."Thanks for all your patience with the newb... now I just gotta save a few paychecks.

Dorkweed, it sounds like you drive a lot like me. If you're tailgating me that hard, it's clearly because you want to go FAST... so LET'S GO FAST. Usually around 80-85mph, they give up and I usually just :lmao:followed by and then .So, on that JR, are you towing at SW3 or do you back it down? Who was it that posted they got 23+ mpg on the Smarty tune? I want to do that! I figure the stickshift and 2wd will help out some, but that's why I want the Smarty... well, that and the spare power. heh.

I'll have to re-read that a few times, but thanks for all those tips. Does the GDP kit replace the factory filter, or leave the factory can in place?

Having just got in from the muffler shop with my new 4" exhaust, I got a chance to look at things while it was up on the lift. It looks like you were suggesting mounting the Raptor right where the metal fuel line transitions into rubber? Kinda right beside the bellhousing... When I turn the key, the pump noise is definitely right by the fuel filter, so I guess mine never got the upgrade.I don't know if my buddy got the studs, but this shop was an H&S dealer, so I would hope they would have warned him. I'll let him know...I don't really ever tow in cruise so that I have control over the pedal and most of my towing is on urban interstates here in Atlanta. Think of it as bumper to bumper trafffic, but still going 65-70mph. No way you can set cruise safely.Now I understand the POD setup... that sounds awfully risky and not really worth the money. And if I need studs & other mods to run a 170hp tune, then I just need to get the JR and hold off until this isn't my full-time work truck. Here are some other fun facts I learned this morning:1. Once the 4" turbo-back kit was installed, the filter minder jumped from "virginal" to the half-way point just driving in to work.2. This particular kit is a Summit kit that includes a 4" glass-pack bullet-style muffler. I didn't really check to make sure he installed it in the correct direction, but it pretty much sounds like a straight pipe. Very buzzy at 2000 rpm. No thanks. Off to Summit to get a bigger canister-style muffler to make it quiet again...3. Driving around with the window down is hilarious, though. It sounds like a Kenworth rolling through the neighborhoods...

I'll have to do some more reading on fittings & all that, but you're suggesting mounting it to the frame back by the trans? Is there an in-tank pump on my 04 or is it just gravity feeding down to the Raptor at that point? This is where I am torn between the full on Smarty & the JR. i have a friend with a 6.7 truck with the H&S mini-maxx and his 170 tune is humongous. I'd love to drive around like that, but switching it back & forth for towing seems like it would be a pain to hook up & download for 5 minutes, etc. Maybe I don't understand the PoD setup & how it works... why don't you recommend towing on lesser power values? What was the huge mistake, etc?

Is that lower elbow the one that has the directional vanes in it? I read somewhere (probably here) that Holset says it's a 30% increase in the efficiency of the air flow into the turbo... So, if I keep the OEM filter box arrangement and do the mods for cold air, what filter insert do I use? I've heard the pleated paper insert isnt too efficient. I'd like to stay away from the wash & oil versions. Just a good-flowing dry drop-in...Should I run the Raptor in line with the factory pump or just replace the factory pump?I'll have to look into the bigline kit. Sounds like a good idea for the CP3's sake...So, if I want eventually want to drive around on the 130hp tune or even the 170hp tune on the SMarty, I probably want a bigger turbo... there's the next set of questions. LOL... which one is a good start?I need to tow about 7500 lbs with it every weekend and I need it to be dead reliable as it's my DD and my work truck. I guess I need to get a PoD tuner so I don't have to spend 5 minutes every Saturday morning re-tuning before I hitch up the trailer?

I need to make a signature for myself... I have an early 2004, not an 04.5...The exhaust on mine is 3.5" from the turbo back to the muffler and then 4" to the tail pipe. I have read too many MPG posts where increasing to 4" will get me better MPG. I was considering 5", but it seems that 4" exhaust will support up to 450rwhp also. Maybe I'll send the cold air intake back & get one of those mid-pipes that replaces the "muffler sections" of the factory intake tract. I think it's AirRaid that makes it?Anyhow, does the DDRP get me enough fuel to support the Smarty REVO with a stock turbo?I had no plans for a big-line kit, mostly because I have no idea what they do. Are the factory lines that restrictive? What would be the gain (approx)?I assume that the SMarty & others will take care of the factory programming & get rid of that "lag" that I'm describing?Thanks for all the patience with the newbie....

I hadn't really planned on running with no gauges, I was just asking about the "safety margin" for a Smarty JR. It seems like based on some Bob Wagener info that I've read and that earlier response (something about Jr's don't really need gauges) that the Smarty JR is kind of a good starter programmer for those of us who want to use their truck as a DD and tow all the time without fear of blowing stuff up. It seems like if you step up too high on the Smarty ladder, you start needing extra fuel & all sorts of other mods to make sure you don't blow stuff up. I'm still learning a lot as I go. I'm not completely new to the "performance world" though... here's my other Dodge: Right now, I am installing a 4" turbo-back exhaust and an AFE cold air setup. I guess gauges had damn well better be next... Now, bear with me on some of these newb questions: 1. Is there a link someone can provide that shows how to install a new lift pump? I have heard that the FASS DDRP is a good start (I don't plan on getting crazy. Probably just a Smarty S06 and stock turbo for now). 2. So, what is the company that makes that 3-gauge pod? Is there a link for this? 3. Is there a link that shows where/how to install rail pressure sensor and where/how to install the fuel pressure sensor? I assume you are trying to get fuel pressure before the rail (to make sure lift pump is working) and then pressure in the rail to make sure the CP3 doesn't run out at WOT? 4. Do the CR trucks have shift defueling even on stickshifts? When I am really getting on it, the truck just feels completely soft when I shift. When I shift from 2-3 and so on, it has this horrific lag & then REALLY comes on at like 2000rpm. It seems like I couldn't even bark the tires if I was trying. Is this part of the factory programming? Just curious there...