Steven cash

Vehicle Nickname: Steven Date Added To The Garage: 2022-01-24 Garage Link: Steven

It may be a 180*. I'll pull it out and check.

I've considered a he351cw but with the 125s I got I'm gonna go with the 62/68/12 sxe turbo. May as well use all the fuel I got. Again, thanks for the advice. While I have your attention, while I had the trans out I decided to install a fleece coolant bypass. After that my coolant temps stay at about 150-170. The colder weather probably doesn't help. Seems to be working too well. I did put the thermostat back in with a new Oring and made sure everything was perfectly clean. Is there a higher temp thermostat I can get to bring it back up to 190?

Thanks for the help guys. I'm gonna go with a 62/68/12.

Thanks for the quicl responses. I'm gonna go with a 62/68/12or14. So the question then is 12cm vs 14cm. Quicker spool vs cooler egts. This is a video of a .70 vs .83 vs .91 housing. It doesn't show each individual dyno run or egts but it does bring them all on the same graph I think 1/3 through the video. I think I'll go with a 12.

I just got a southbend dual disk installed in my truck with southbend hydraulics. After talking to some guys about injectors and reading on here and various other forums I decided to go with a set of DAP new bosch 125hp SACs. I would like to know which turbo size would be better to run for this amount of fuel. I was going to go with small twins but after my other truck got totalled, the clutch job, and buying a 1998 jeep to replace the totalled truck, I'm getting short on cash so I'm sticking with a single. Budgeting around 1,500 for turbo and downpipe. I've decided on a borg warner SX-E 57/65/12or14 61/65/14 or a 62/68/12or14. I know that I could probably go bigger with the amount of fuel I have but I'm think about driveability. Not really after a power numbers just enough air for my fuel. Any advice would be very appreciated.

I am skeptical of a 1500 being able to handle the weight as well. If I get a chance this weekend I will take pictures of my freinds 1500 this weekend and measure frame thickness. I have found a few sub 2k sc sb 1500s around here. Keep in mind I still gave my wrecked ram 2500 for the donor cummins and parts. So, I don't think I would have to get any parts for the swap except for a rad, intercooler, and other vairous parts that was damaged in the wreck. So long as I get a 1998.5 and up 1500 then everything should swap over for the most part. However I may have to weld in motor mounts and drill some new mounting holes for things here and there. But I don't know what I don't know. It is likely that I will just sell it as a whole. But a light cummins truck with 600 or so horses would be amazing. The other half is getting upset with me with the amount of time and I spend working on the flatbed. Now, if only I can find that money tree sead? I could still afford to mod my truck and not get strangled.

Should be. 2nd gen 1500, 2500, and 3500 frames are the same from my observations. Though the leaf spring perches may be different for the srw vs drw. I have compaired my 3500 drw frame my friends 2500 frame and a 1500 frame. Aside from QC vs SC, SB, vs LB, they seem same. I'll check my friends 1500 frame again to make sure.

I was thinking the same thing. I am considering a 2nd gen ram 1500 single cab shortbed. I don't need to use the truck as a truck I have a ram 3500 flatbed or use it to transport people I have a 1998 jeep cherokee. So, why not make it quick? Just swap the engine, trans, electronics, breaks, and rear axle over. I also own a 1979 f150 that could use a cummins.

I have news on the truck. The frame guy quoted 2,200 to 2,800 to repair the frame alone. On top of that I'm guessing I will need to collect 1,000 in parts or more to get the entire front end back together. More if I went with any new parts. Not to mention running around to collect the parts. I don't have nearly that much time on my hands. I just cannot justify spending thay much on an old truck that really needs other work that old trucks need. So I'm thinking either sell it as a whole or find a 2nd gen ram 2500 or 1500 that is in good shape on the exterior perferrably with a bad engine or trans so the truck would cost under 2,000 and then swap everything over. The only thing I would need is an intercooler, rad, condensor, and trans cooler. Thoughts?

I strongly agree

I'm really sorry to hear this. I lost a english mastiff to lymph node cancer. Very similar symtoms. Couldn't walk, or stand. Started to get really skinny becuase she couldn't eat. My condolences.

Thanks for the advice. I'll hook up the batteries the moment this hurricane weather clears up. I'm gonna replace every gasket I can while the front end is apart. Thoughts on a felpro gasket kit? How difficult will the oil pan gasket be to replace, do I need to lift the engine?

Me too. Hopefully scabing on a new frame piece would not require removal of the engine. It would certainly require removal of the gear box which isn't significant. @Dieselfuture, my point EXACTLY. I have been saying that for years. Frames are MENT to bend in collisions. My dad's 2010 E-250 has a ribed frame with slits cut in it to bend during a collision. It sucks but the more the vehicle crumbles the less impact you take. That is, until the engine is in your lap.... but the bumpers sure look cool. Also, the radiator got mashed into the fan. You can see where the pulley is contacting a bolt on the gear case. The dark one covered in oil, not the clean rusy one. I'm hoping this is the extent of damage to the engine. I'm gonna pull off the water pump look it over, probably pull the gear case cover off too.

My ram 2500 hit a tree head on at about 35mph. Everyone is ok and now it's time to fix the truck. All of the damage is in the driver's side front end. I got the inner and outer finder off, removed the trashed condenser, trans cooler, intercooler, and radiator. I can now see the extent of damage. The drivers side frame rail is bent and as you can see in the picture the bend gets very close to the steering gear box. There are frame alignment shops around me but I'm worried that this may not be possible to be bent back and not have any negative impact on the steering as the steerimg gear box alingment may be thrown off. I probably won't know till I get it into a shop for sure but I'd like some opinions. I will post a picture of the passenger side frame rail that is not bent for comparison. Here is the unbent passenger side frame rail.