Relentless70

Flange is tacked to the elbow in this pic. I ran out of carbon dioxide for my MIG welder....otherwise I would have welded the flange all the way around. BTW, I'm at a perfect 90 degrees now . Tomorrow I'll run to McCall and pick up another 5 lbs of dry ice so I can finish all my welding on the stack. For those of you that use a MIG welder with carbon dioxide, you can substitute dry ice instead of taking your bottle to Norco or Airgas. I do the dry ice method because the closest Airgas or Norco shop is 140 miles away. 10 lbs of dry ice will give you 700-800 lbs bottle pressure, and costs $15.

Elbow flange has been cut out.

A bit more machining done here...should have the flange finished and welded to the elbow by tomorrow night

Started machining the flange for the elbow. I use an old 1936 Reed-Prentiss lathe for this machining. If you have the patience, she still works just fine, just ask Mopar1973man. The mounting flange needs to be 4.4-4.75" OD, 4" ID, .290" thick, and tapered to .150". Taper can be no longer than .120" with my setup.

Pic with the elbow painted.

This is what the elbow looks like after smoothing out the welds.

I had to add a thinner segment to the elbow to get it close to 90 degrees. I'm about 1-1.5 degrees off from 90. My 9" side grinder will take care of this issue XD

Here is a pic of the 90 degree hood stack elbow tacked together.

I'm using 4" exhaust pipe bought from NAPA. This is a pic of the segments I cut off of the pipe.

I've been doing some research regarding the legalities of building a hood stack for my '92 D350. Seems Idaho law says its ok, so long as the exhaust gases exit above the cab. An ISP who pulled me over for going too fast(me...going too fast? Who da thunk it ROFL) said he did not know of any law prohibiting a hood stack in Idaho. His concern was mainly visual obstruction. So, with those thoughts in mind, I'm working on a hood stack for my rig. I'll post pics as I make progress.

Can anybody give me the height and width of the 1st gen Cummins exhaust port? I'm using an app called Performance Trends Engine Analyzer Pro v3.3(great program, BTW), and I'm trying to dial in some different variables into the program. Any help would be appreciated .

Finally made some more progress on the bumper. I really like how its coming along, and I'm almost done with it

I've been doing some reading on other Cummins forums, and there are a lot of guys out there who have removed the AFC lever. What is the advantage to doing this? Can I still use the AFC diaphragm and fuel pin after the lever removal? I figured I'd ask before I did anything. Any input is appreciated:)

More progress...

Latest progress on the bumper.....

Thank you for your input and pics flagmanruss! Channel iron is good stuff to use for a bumper, depending on thickness. Sounds like you've got some pretty thick iron for your unit. My bumper is only 3/16" thick, but is tubular. I use 1/2" Grade 8 genuine Caterpillar bolts and nuts to hold the bumper to the frame, 4 bolts per side. I have 5/8" Grade 8 Caterpillar nuts and bolts if the need arises, but after I'm done with the gussets on the bumper, I may not need the 5/8" bolts At this point, my dad(who has a tendency to overbuild stuff) and I feel like the frame is the weak point. I'll be addressing that in the future. Thanks again guys!

More pics, but I'm still not done

I'm working on building a "5 MPH" bumper for the dually. The unit is made of 5"x5"x3/16" square steel tubing. The project will take me a couple of weeks to finish, but from the progress I've made so far, I'm really happy with the results. I had to stop at this point due to beer overload LMAO! I'm not finished with it by any means. Any input is appreciated .

Sorry for the delay guys.....here are the pics of the cracked wheels.

The distance I need to travel is about 100 miles, but I don't go faster than 45-50 mph when I'm pulling a load. Thanks for replying guys!

I've got a '92 Dodge 2wd 1 ton Cummins dually with overloads on it. The rear main leaves have 8 leaves, totalling 2 3/4" thick, the overloads are 5 leaves, thickness of 1.5 inches. I've got a line on some heavy scrap iron, but I'm not sure how much weight I can put in the bed before the springs go flat. All springs are in good shape, still have good arch. Any ideas?

My brother and I replaced the rear windshield today. The original rear window had too many stupid stickers on it, and in addition, the new rear window is tinted and has better weatherstripping on it. Took us less than 5 minutes to install.

I just purchased a 1992 Dodge D350 2WD CTD dually 5-speed truck about 2 weeks ago that needed a passenger side upper control arm and ball joint before I could drive it home. I replaced the upper control arm AND ball joint from an '85 Dodge 3/4 ton 2wd truck....everything fit perfectly. Thank you for your help and shop space Mopar1973Man!! I also have a '91 Dodge 1/2 ton parts rig in the yard that can also donate upper control arms to the 1 ton, ball joints from the 1/2 ton will NOT work. The front flexible brake lines are the same too XD. The only catch on the brake lines is that the hard line side is smaller on the 1/2 ton than on the 1 ton, but the threads are the same. I'm guessing the calipers are the same....they sure look the same....I'll confirm that before posting.

Today I just finished installing a "new" windshield from a '91 Dodge 2wd 1/2 ton truck into my '92 Dodge 1 ton CTD 2wd. A huge THANK YOU! has to be given to Mopar1973Man for his invaluable assistance in this stressful project . The original windshield was cracked badly, and the '91 windshield was nearly perfect. When installing a windshield, make sure you start from the middle of the bottom of the windshield with twine wrapped inside the channel of the weatherstrip, and don't be stingy with any type of non-petroleum lubricant....it really helps!A 2nd or 3rd helper is invaluable too!