KeelinTy

Nope. I didn't a little bit of basic testing today. I switched it back to the apps and hooked up my multimeter. At idle the wire reads .5v which was expected. Grounding it shows no current flow. When the apps is grounded. It will either keep the converter locked or unlocked. So if you're driving on the highway when it's locked, and you ground the apps, the converter will stay locked, unless you hit the brakes, or get back on the throttle and flip the switch off Same with unlocked. Stays unlocked until you get back on the throttle and flip the switch A 30 minute drive yesterday with the apps grounded showed no issues, no check engine light or anything. Felt normal too. Other than me keeping my converter locked

Got that too, took out the transmission relay and used a jumper

it's connected to the orange and black wire coming off the center connector on the pcm. That's what all the instructions I've seen say to do http://imgur.com/a/zJJaFSr Resistance measured on my cheaper multimeter is between 18 and 30 ohms probing around on different spots 18 at the battery terminal and 30 on the block

I wired it up correctly this morning and for some reason it doesn't work I'm using relays for everything. But using a multimeter on continuity, once I flip the lockup switch, it grounds the cable. Is it because I'm going straight to the negative terminal of the battery? I wouldn't think it would be I tapped into the orange with black stripe wire on the pcm as well as taking out the transmission relay and using a jumper Any ideas? I flip the switch and it does nothing, in any gear.

So the other day I made myself a switch panel. Gotta love 3d printing. One of the switches is a torque converter lockup switch Welp, it was getting dark and I tapped into the wrong line. I tapped into the apps wire. Oopsies. Orange and dark blue vs orange and black when it was starting to get dark out Ended up running it on my commute to work today, about a 30 minute drive. Surprisingly, the switch worked, just not as a lockup switch Turns out if you ground the apps wire, the truck will run properly, but the torque converter will hold whatever condition it was in when you flipped the switch So if you flip it while it's unlocked - it stays unlocked through all gears If you flip it while it's locked - stays locked (even unlocks when you hit the breaks) Honestly I thought that was kinda cool But my question would be, would running something like that cause any damage to the apps or pcm? Once I realized my mistake after getting to work, I didn't use it on the way home I know a noise isolator adds a capacitor between the line and ground to reduce noise. But I'm not sure what completely grounding the wire would do Just an interesting little find I stumbled across and not sure if it's harmful or not Edit: Trucks a 1999 47re

I used to have it but it only happened at 40-45mph before I got my noise isolator Would it still happened at anywhere from 30-70mph as long as the torque converter is locked?

Okay so before I get into it, heres the info about my truck 99 Ram 2500 47re Edge EZ (set on level 2, 40hp) RV275 injectors BHAF Intake Boost elbow (15F today) Okay so I'll get right into it, my transmission was acting up this morning on my way to work. I left my house after about 10 minutes of letting my truck idle at 1200rpm, the engine was still below 140 so I took it easy and kept it below 1800rpm until it got over 150 degrees. I left my house and drove down the road before I turned off overdrive (slows me down on hills and powers me through hills better) and as I was going down a hill with the torque converter locked at 30mph, it randomly unlocked for a few seconds before relocking. I didnt think much of it, like maybe I moved my foot. But then after a few miles, I get onto the highway, get up to speed, and after a few miles my truck reaches 190 degrees. Feels pretty decent, peppy truck, but I notice that something isnt right Typically going 65mph, My boost is at 5psi and egts are around 650, engine rpm at 1850 (35in tires) This morning again at 65mph, boost is at 10psi, and egts are constantly around 800, same engine rpm as normal. Thats on flat land. Going up hills usually is 10-15psi of boost for me at 65mph depending on the hill, this time it was at about 15-20psi with higher egts After about 10 miles and everything being nice and warm, I feel a slip. It doesnt feel like a transmission slip as much as it does unlocking the torque converter. Keep in mind im still doing 65. As I get closer to work, which is about 25 miles from my house, it slips more and more. It only does it when my torque converter is locked. When it slips, I lose power and speed for like 1 second before it locks back up and goes, sometimes itll be a few seconds before it does it again and sometimes itll be a minute. When it slips/unlocks/whatever the issue is at 65mph, my rpm jumps up by 200ish. Once I got off the highway and was driving to work, I wasnt going fast enough for my torque converter to lock up and I had no issue Still peppy as hell, even on the highway. I checked my fluid level once I got to work, it was full, smells good, no burnt smell, just smells like warm transmission fluid. I am using ATF+4. I did have a fluid dump on christmas morning, my cooler line came off and puked all of my fluid, I pulled over fast and got a tow home, reconnected the line, filled it back up and got all of the air out of the system. Slipped a few times the first day because of air in the system but that went away fast. Didnt have any issue after that, until now. I do have an APPS noise isolator, installed it about 6 months ago and never had an issue, I only had the locking and unlocking issue at 40-45mph I also replaced my alternator about a month or two ago so Im not thinking that is the issue Uploaded is a photo of my transmission fluid on a napkin, the fluid is pink but when I wipe the stick on the napkin, the grey shows. No chunks of anything or particles, its just grey streaks. I did a fluid/filter change about 3 months ago and only put less than 1k miles on it since. Im kinda at a loss, is my torque converter on its way out? Something wrong inside my transmission? EDIT: Forgot to mention that with pan off, it looks like I have a shift kit and some guys are thinking I have a billet single disk torque converter. I have no information on my transmission so everyone in 2nd gen cummins on facebook and I are going off what we can see with inspection cover and pan off