2001white

Figured I would follow up for anyone else having an issue like this. I found that my battery terminal was clean but the whole inside of the positive wire was crusted in blue and white after i removed it from the clamp that holds the wire to the terminal(pass side). I took some vice grips and broke down the mess. Whole wire was solid like a rock. Once I got everything cleaned up and all the deposits off I have not seen a check engine light. I have towed about 400 miles since the cleaning and have had no cel come back!

Confirmed my apps was still in spec its a TIMBO apps. Yeah blue chip didn't have much for ideas on there site. Seems normally when folks have a 1690 they have another code with it like a 336. Mine is always just a 1690.

I did see in the past some folks blamed the Vp44 as the issue but I can't find any good testing procedure to confirm that or not. I plan to try to reset my APPS just in case.

Seems like after a drive I tend to trigger a po1690. I have no noticable issues. I changed out my cam position sensor in case my old one was bad it didnt seem to change anything. New one still popping a cell light. I have a 2001 24v so no crank position sensor on my truck. Truck runs fine with or without the cel just not sure what to do to get it to go away. Fuel pressure is 16psi with an air dog.

Thanks guys I ended up going the way @IBMobilesuggested and it worked out great. Only odd part was I had 2 spring inside the 3/4 housing a small and big spring I replaced the big spring with the sonnex unit that I bought just in case the old one was weak and left the small spring inside the trans. Everything went smoothly trans seems happy still.

Installing a new deep oil pan and filter decided to replace all the solenoid and the 3/4 spring. I want to install the new overdrive and tcc solenoid without removing the valve body. Can this be done if I just remove the zip ties and reuse the original harness? Or am I missing something?

I was Looking at how to torque down the studs that hold the extension hub onto the rotor. I ended up torqing them down to 145. I used a extension I found on amazon fits between the lugs and the wheel extender allowing you to torque them down to spec. Wheel bearing was torqued to 250 then a few ugga dugs to get the extra 30 lol. Tool was Proto J5128 3/8" Drive Torque Adapter 7/8".

How did you get a trq wrench and socket in there?

I had a wheel bearing go out on my 2001 2wd independent suspension 3500. Ordered a new nut for the wheel bearing hub but I'm not sure what the torque spec should be. Also whats the torque spec for the OEM wheel extenders and how do you all torque them down sense you can only fit a wrench. I am guessing you just good and tight it? Normally I'm okay with that but sense my wheel is attached to this makes me a bit paranoid.

seeing that surging can be an issue would putting my sensor in the air dog sensor hole location be a good idea? or would this be to far back? mine is located under the drivers door on the frame.

well sadly happniess only lasts for a few days. Back to po720 code and surging this time though not holding at 2k just seems to jump all back and forth as if it cant find a gear.

alright guess my old edge can watch the TPS we are at 0 at idle like it should be. Trucks running great for the last 3 days. Idle RPM does fall to 750rpm according to my edge tuner when comming to a stop and sitting at a red light in Drive. Codes are all clear now that i have the new speed sensor in and no more odd surging now thay I have the TIMBO app installed. Think we are all set!

I never did any adjustment with the old sensor. With the timbo I just followed directions and did the relearn process. Idle seems fine about 600-800rpm depending on the temp. I think maybe my TPS reading may be off I found an old thread showing issues with the torque pro app reading wrong for the TPS. So I will run to the parts store tomorrow night and see what their ODB2 read shows. Truck runs great so im guessing its just my scan tool app thats wrong.

I did the relearn. The % readings are witb the truck on at idle

alright new timbo app is installed have not had any issue yet see how things go over the next few days. I did notice my old APPS when installed showed 6% open when off throttle. The new TIMBO apps shows 12%. Should I be seeing 0% or not?

Here is the test from the factory on the new alt thats getting similar reading from my DVM. Should have apps in this weekend from the looks on the tracking. I wish my napa could run a good test but they told me all they can do is pass or fail test and the autozone and o'reillys were the same pass fail and of course the old alt passed those tests fine.

its possible that my DVM is low quality. sadly couldnt find any local place that can do a bench test. Thus why I went to napa and bought a new alternator. Maybe this new one is also bad my DVM seemed to read about the same so im about to throw the DVM out of the equation. Im not sure what the odds of 2 bad alternators are. Timbo did say on their site that bad apps can cause issues like what im having and show no codes. Guess i will know once USPS drops things off. I plan to do the W-T ground set up but at the moment its to been mostly 3deg outside where I live so hoping to do that this summer once I can solve the issue.

I did some testing and drove the truck yesterday about 300miles to tow my car. didnt have much of a choice. Truck ran awesome at highway speed and most in town was okay. I found that my issue seems to be always shortly after start up and at low speed. If I can get past the shutter after few miles things are fine. Also dosent matter if engine is cold at start up or hot. As long as the truck stays running it wont have any issues after the inital surging. no codes im thinking maybe apps?

alright couldnt find a place to test the alternator. So i bought a new one along with a speed sensor still same issue no luck. With the new alternator i was able to get above 20mph but it just jumps back and forth I did get a video below. I reset the apps as well during alt install.

hmm so the problem goes away after a while like today truck drove fine no issues. then maybe tomorrow things will go south so maybe that at would fit why i am reading inconsistant readings?

Think I have the settings right now. Showing .57 did see it hit .10 for a bit then to .30-.40 then jumps to .50s then back lower. no lights or anything on that could cause extra noise.

I am planning on buying a new sensor and getting that in tomorrow. i looked for AC current but didnt seem to get any noise. I might just need to take it in some place. Are any of the main parts stores able to test for AC noise?

Had this issue once before for a split second but truck jumped back to having power. Tonight though no luck.Was driving home and RPMs were stuck at 2000rpm and 20mph. If i pushed the pedal all the way down still same rpms just held at 2k. Truck is an 01 auto and p0720 is the only code to show. Fuel pressure is good. Truck drives great tell I get to 20mph lol.