Gunsablazin

Yeah, it's cheap enough to have a few gallons of TCW3 from walmart in the toolbox all the time anyway. When I installed my AD150 I ended up getting some fuel from the tank on my hands and it was down right oily. I guess when Walmart decides to charge $50 per gallon for it then I'll have to get the truck mounted harpoon back out and start whaling again. Shouldn't be too hard if I just stick close to the walmart parking lot. I hear the whaling's best where they park the power-buggies.

The T56 in my Camaro requires ATF. Sticker right on the side of it that says so.I read once that the old ATF actually had whale oil in it, which was supposedly the greatest thing ever for lubricating, and they said it would really burn well. I suppose if whaling wasn't illegal then we'd still find their oil in stuff today.

That's kinda what I was thinking too. Thanks!

Good deal. What's next on the list?

Your grand dad is awesome! Old diesel guys are fun to talk to, especially the ones that are in to modding their trucks. When you get a fuel pressure gauge don't bother getting an electronic gauge. The mechanical ones respond quicker to pressure changes. Also, don't do like I did and waste your money on a gauge isolator. The isolator is a little canistor that keeps you from running diesel all the way to the back of the gauge. The isolator is natorious for causing incorrect pressure readings - like mine - and from what we've gathered there aren't any problems associated with just running straight diesel into the cab. The risk of fire isn't a problem with diesel like it would be with gasoline. Whatever you do, just make sure you get a pressure gauge on there and watch it. The VP44 injection pump is a decent pump that will live a fairly long life IF you ensure that it has enough pressure. Unlike the previous 12 valve trucks and the newer cummins trucks, ours will not run for long when (when is the optimal word) the lift pump dies. Most of us here have upgraded to some kind of aftermarket lift pump, like airdog or fass. This is in hopes of feeding our pumps with adequate pressure... plus the aftermarket pumps will supply you with enough fuel to make some power! Another great benefit of an aftermarket lift pump is the addition of a spin on fuel filter and a water/air seperator. The AD150 is a pump that continuously filters the fuel - whether it's being used by the engine or not. Just thought I'd share what others shared with me when I first got my DD cummins.

I bypassed my stock filter when I installed my AD150. I've been thinking about routing it back in though. I've still got one good stock fuel filter sitting in the toolbox, lol. Here in Alabama I doubt I'll ever need the fuel heater, but one more filter couldn't hurt. Is there any significant pressure change when running thru another filter? Also, where would you want your pressure T for your gauge, before the stock filter, or after?

Didn't know that about burning carbon. I guess I'll try to get it up 1000° every week or so. Thanks!

I'm interested to see this thread develope. We've lost 5th gear in our 98 1ton 2wd on the farm a few times now. The first time was under warranty and the second was not. It's seen 14k pounds with a 24ft goose neck for 350k miles now. It's too good of a truck to get rid of, so when the trans goes out again I'd like to know whether or not these transmissions would make for a good replacement.

I wonder if it has to do with my isolator? I can't understand the instructions when it says that it's okay if there's a little air in the lines going to the gauge. I can see it loosing some PSI through the snubber, the isolator, and line filled with a different substance and air. If I go get some oil pressure line and then just plumb it in to my gauge from my T in the fuel line then should I use a needle valve and the snubber?

I posted this over on CumminsForum and I figured that it'd be useful here too. I recently purchased an Airdog 150 for my truck and wanted to mount it where it would be protected by the skid plate. I knew that AD used to make a shortbed bracket, and I've seen a few of them on this forum and others, so I set out to make my own. I bought some 1/4" steel plates from lowes and cut/drilled it to copy one of the supplied airdog plates. Then I welded another steel plate perpendicular to that plate and drilled a few holes for the AD bracket. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about so far: Here's a shot with the bracket bolted on: I found an old inner tube and cut a piece out to fit in between the brackets to reduce vibrations. Here's a few shots of it loosly sitting in the desired spot: And here it is all hooked up: You'll need to get some 90° push-lock fittings and adapters if you plan to do this as the straight quick-connect fittings won't work. I got all my stuff from Eric at Vulcan Performance. I told him what I was doing and he sent me everything I needed. The Draw Straw V (DSV) that they put together at Vulcan is a very well designed product. After it was all said and done I've got 13psi showing on my ISSPRO gauge, which also came from Vulcan. I'm using the isolator and a snubber, but I'm wondering if I'd be better off just running straight diesel into the gauge with a needle valve. Is the snubber still needed if you use a needle valve? Anyway, this was a very simple mount to make. All I needed was a Sawzall, drill, and my Mig Welder. If you don't have a welder then you could simply cut and drill everything you want, and then mark where you want the two plates joined and a machine shop or even muffler shop would probably do it for very cheap. You can't tell from my pictures, but the plates aren't actually joined end-to-end. The plate with the pump mount on it actually extends about an inch or two past weld. There's a fairly large hole in the frame and that extending piece of metal kinda acts as a stop to keep the pump from vibrating into the tank. This might make more sense to you when you get under the truck and look in that spot. This spot just apealed to me because the skid plate for the T-Case guards the filters. Even if you do nothing but road driving I still think you'd want your filters protected like this. I can only imagine some stupid armadillo hopping up into the fuel filter while I'm driving 55 on a dirt road... much less rocks, tree limbs, or dirt mounds when I take it off road. I plan to put a notch in the skid plate so that I can get the filter off if I tilt it on an angle, that way I'll be able to do road-side filter changes if needed without any tools. One more thing: There's plenty of room to mount your pump in this spot. I should be able to get to the T-Case fluid refil plug without any problems, and the factory fuel/brake lines aren't that big of an issue. I just unbolted their clip from the frame, and ziptied some of that innertube to them to keep them from rubbing.

Gotcha. Well, if (big if) I ever decide to make the swap then I won't sweat having to buy another pump. I'm sure there's a market for used AD150's, lol. Anyway, I'd say that if I was in that position I could call Pure Flow and they could advise me on what to do. Even if my vp died tomorrow I doubt I'd be getting into a pPump conversion. Too much time and money to fix, plus, on a fresh VP with a propper fuel setup I'd be looking at another 150k miles... I'd think. Anyway, it's about time that I got all of the mentioned stuff. Anyone know if it's worth getting the DDT shift kit over the regular trans go? So far I haven't found anything worth an extra $100. --- Update to the previous post... Sorry ISX, I missed your post. Good to hear that it'll work. Thanks everyone! I'll keep everyone posted on my most recent purchases... not that there's anything unusual about them, lol.

Well, I called Eric at Vulcan and orderd an AD150, BHAF, and a gauge kit. I got a boost, pyro, and fuel pressure kit. I chose to wait to get the iQuad and tranny gauge. Most likely I'll do another round of ordering in a few months and get a those last two items plus a shift kit. Maybe all of these items will help the truck go another 150k miles without any problems. Here's a question I thought of: In the event that I choose to pPump my truck, will the AD150 still work for me? I realize they have different pressure needs, but I was wondering if the pump made for my truck will be able to adjust for the needs of a p7100. Just curious.

From what I can tell the tranny is bone stock. It slips a good bit too.I am thinking that I want to start getting into mixed WVO, as I have a friend down here in Alabama that has been doing it with success for years now. I've also been talking to a board member about WVO and with his VP44 trucks and has had good success with them. I believe that the 1/2 inch fuel lines with the AirDog will help with the thicker fuel. I'm going to get all of the gauges eventually, but I think I might skip out on the tranny gauge since the iQuad will provide that gauge. But, eventually I'd like to get the cubby hole mount from Geno's and put the tranny temp gauge there. I sent a few emails to Eric at Vulcan and he's got me some prices for all of what I was looking for. Thanks everyone for all of your replies. I'll keep everyone posted!

Hello everybody, I am about to purchase a bunch of stuff for my truck and I wanted to make sure that I had all of my bases covered. I've done a ton of searching and I'd like to thank everyone for everything they've contributed to this site. It's an awesome source for doing research!I've got an 01 QCSB 4x4 CTD, Auto, 3.55, 160k, and it's my daily driver when I'm not on my motorcycle. I had to replace the exhaust when I got it and other than that it's pretty much stock. I've got a 4" Diamond Eye from the turbo back. My main goal is reliability, though power may come later. Here's the stuff that I am going to buy in the near future. If I've left anything out then please let me know!In the very near future I'm going to get:BHAFISSPRO Gauges from Vulcan - Mechanical boost, fuel pressure, and EGT. Possibly a tranny gauge (it does a good bit of slipping).Big line filter to injection pump w/ fuel pressure access. Shortly following this I will get some sort of lift pump, probably an AD150, and an iQuad. I'm more interested in the MPG gains, turbo timer, and reliability features of the iQuad for now, but the power benefits will be good later.I figure that I will run the fuel right to the gauge using the needle valve like suggested here, and I plan on keeping my stock fuel filter housing. Would I benefit from getting my fuel pressure reading from the big line kit, or from another area? Also, is the snubber a must have if i am not running the isolator?Next is in relation to the drawstraw. I don't recall seeing a lift pump on the block, but I could be wrong. I see so much info on draw straws that I don't understand what I need, or if the AD150 will come with everything else I need.I suppose my final question is in relation to mounting the AD150. I like how MoparMan has his mounted and from what I gather there isn't a shortbed mount like that made anymore. Would I have any problems with the fuel lines if I decided to make my own bracket and mount my pump in that location (near the transfer case). It's my understanding that the lines are premade with the fittings already installed so there aren't many options for relocating it without getting new lines. If this is a false assumption then let me know, and if the FASS doesn't have this problem perhaps I will go that way.Thanks. I look forward to installing some stuff in the future!