jamman

So I was able to insert a 1/2" siphon hose into the tank and draw it down. I turned on the key and the low fuel indicator chimed in. The fuel was clear and looked good. I didn't see any particulates or water. Change the stock fuel filter, put in clean fuel and see what happens? I work out of town and am only getting to work on the weekend. I need to hit the road Nov 10 with it, hopefully.. I don't have unlimited fund but will see how many I can do now. It has been my goal all along to get all the gauges installed in the truck, as I plan on keeping the wonderful truck from now until my or it's end. I'll consider all suggestions of gauges and filters etc to install. I did put in some increased hoses and the raptor lift pump. But I need an idea of where to go from here. I'll also see about a better read on the OBD.

I haven’t gotten to the gauge install yet. I need to badly. Ok, I wanted to drain the tank but know no good way. Tell me how and I’ll empty that puppy out. I’ve left the system stock, so it has the OEM fuel filter, but I believe it is after the lift if I remember correctly. Thanks for the quick reply!

Hello everyone, I need some help determining what is happening here. I’m supposed to be taking my truck to WY in November, but this is a problem. My truck has been running ok but it doesn’t get a lot of use these days. Over the summer, I barely started it so it had fuel in it from spring time. I tend to run 1oz/1gal of 2 cycle oil in the fuel. It is stock other than putting a different lift pump and fuel lines for the pump. It has started and ran ok cold. I’ve fooled with this just a bit over the last couple weekends. I got in it and have lots of bluish/white smoke, but only after past it being cold. Today I started it and it was running ok cold. I jumped on the highway and ran it up to nearly 3k rpm just fine, over 70 mph, 2 miles down the highway and then 2 miles back. Parked it, ran inside to change clothes then came back out, started it and head out and started it’s sputtering and surging. I might be able to rev up over 2000 rpm, but then it’ll surge/fall back, surge/fall back, or then sputter, then lose power (while at full pedal) down to nearly 1000k rpm. Obviously, the smoke increases with this. On the highway, it seems bluer. I have a video of revving and the smoke, all while sitting still. Maybe it’ll help you understand some of what I’m dealing with. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8SIM-ahqtIw Now this is all after having issues 2 weekends back, trying to work on it last weekend, adding 1 pint of gasoline (last weekend) to a little over 15 gals of fuel in the tank to try and increase octane a touch (wondering if the 2 cycle might have settled by the intake, or gelled or fuel got old or something). I can and am leaving it idling as we speak. No blue smoke at idle, btw. What I’m doing is trying to get the fuel level very low in the tank. I plan on putting in fresh fuel and probably some Seafoam just to clean injectors in case I’ve gummed things up. I had had a bit of a fuel leak from my fuel line feeding the injector pump after it left the lift pump. I need to tighten that. Any ideas, guys? Suggestions on what to chase down? Do I have a lift pump issue? VP issue? Have I got a sensor gone bad? Have I got bad fuel and should see resolution with fresh fuel and a “cleaned out” tank? Thanks in advance!

Please email me when they are ready. I've put off the truck and all of a sudden am needing it to get stuff prepped for the spring.

I did not have the stud out. This was a case of trying to use what was out. The original nut was lost, another was taken, the replacement the parts store said was correct and ordered I jammed on a stud after "checking" it on the string of sample nuts/bolts at parts store. I then decided maybe the stud was dirty and lets shoot it with WD and just work it. So I ended up with a jammed nut on a stud and it baked the stud out. I came on here to ask for information as I know it has to be out there and I was trying to get the parts store to order it in before they closed so I could pick it up today. Today I had a stud, with jammed nut halfway on it. I ended up buying a set screw with allen head, 55 mm or so long, in M10 x 1.5. It has a double shoulder, and I measured from the middle to the clear side and it was right around 27mm and they looked symmetrical instead of offset. I installed that and it seems to have worked. I got the injector lines reattached tonight and was speeding ahead except now I'm not positive on a few connections. My phone died after I started this, and of course, by "before" photos were on that. So I'll be looking at some folks photos and videos as well as my manual. I have most back, but there are a couple things I'm uncertain about. So, in short....M10 x 1.5 and approx. 55 mm long. Mine were all 15 mm socket to fit the head, not 13 mm. Mike, I think it was March/April, but maybe I'm wrong. I went ahead and sent a small donation again anyway. I'm going to reattach everything, then work on installing the big line kit I got from Eric at Vulcan to feed that VP44 better. I forget if I bought line to run all the way to the tank. Then I need to get the transmission cooler line kit from here on the site.

Hi all, I have searched and searched for this info and I don't believe I have the answer. I need help. Short version: I need to replace stud and flange nut that hold my VP44 on. What sizes are they? How do I find them? Long version: I have been slower than molasses working on my VP44 replacement as I am not dependent on my truck for a living any longer. I went out to try and finish up. I lost one of the flange nuts that hold the pump to the mount. No big deal, I'll take an original to the parts store and get another. Well, it has turned into an ordeal. They tried it and said it was a 3/8" x 16tpi. Ok, order in 2, please. They come. I try it...it feels way too tight and I don't want to mess it up. I run into town to search for something different. Parts store has a crazy long line and 1 man working. So I grab the cable with all the example pieces to try your nuts on...found the one the original worked on. 3/8"x16tpi. Put the new one on it, and it worked too. Decided that I must have just been overly cautious, thus costing me an hour. I drive back home and try to crank it on, deciding the old stud must be a little too rusty and the new is catching. I did spritz it with some WD-40 first. Nope...not the right size. I try to back it off and the stud backs off. I take it out to disassemble and figure this out. I cannot get the nut off. Doh! All that to get to here. I thought I found the right part list here http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=666948&ukey_make=1062&ukey_model=15505&modelYear=1999&ukey_category=20311 as this is a diagram of the VP44 and mounting gear. According to it, that hex flange nut is a M10 x 1.5. I called the parts store here and they could get one like that, but the head was 13mm. My OEM nut takes a 15mm. I can't believe how hard it is to find this information. If I am missing an obvious resource, please direct me. My downloaded copy of the parts look-up list isn't working. And my donation status shows at zero even though I have donated before. I'll go use the look up and add the part numbers I find later. Thanks for any help. That should be a flange nut at the #1 arrow. And the stud that nut goes on....these are the two things I buggered up. Thanks for the help! I found the look up tool. Duh. It ways the flange nut is a M10 x 1.5. But there are no specs for the stud. I know the one end needs to match that, but not sure if it is the same specs, the length, etc. I'm going through O'Reilly's and may look at Auto Zone to see what they have with those sizes that look close. The tool has part num 0476150 for the stud, but that doesn't return anything for me in Google or on O'reilly's site. But I know someone already has this information. Any help appreciated. I want my truck back.

I came looking for this kit but I don't see it listed in the store any longer. Is this still available??

I was wondering if there was any way I could receive a notification as soon as those transmission cooler line kits come in? I don't want to have to use those steel replacement lines. Thanks!

Ok, Thanks for the update. Are these 1/2" lines?

I got confirmation on the likely death of my VP44 and have been lining up funds to buy parts. I also had leaking transmission lines so was going to put in the 47RE cooler line replacement kit, but it is out of stock. How do I find out what the eta is on it coming back into stock?

I worked 11 hours today. I emailed Eric last night and thought it was strange that all I got in response was "call us about this" until I actually did. He wanted to interview me about my real needs. I was prepared to be hit up for a full FASS system, full gauges, VP44, lines, sump kit/draw straw or something, all sorts of things. I was not going to be surprised to be up to $2500 in parts. Nope. Eric talked to me about current set up, whether I saw myself increasing hp substantially, frequency of usage, towing, type of towing, amount of towing, etc. THEN he recommended a more sane and reasonable setup that would get my truck up and running, useful and working right as a work truck (like it is and I want) from now on. Under $1600 for everything that I need to have a dependable, solid working truck. He emailed the list of all the parts/kits that we talked about so we would both know what I needed when I ordered. That is service! Now I just have to play with the budget, get the cash and place the final order. Solid guy. I haven't done business with DAP, so I can't speak to that, but if they are anything like Eric, then they are a great shop. More to come.

I have been working like a mad man and lacked lots of motivation to chase the truck as I was 95% certain I had an expensive fix on my hands. Rather than spending 1,000's of dollars on a misdiagnosis I had another diesel tech/Dodge aficionado come by and..... he agrees, VP is dead. So I suppose Eric at Vulcan and I are going to be spending some time corresponding. I need a VP, aftermarket lift pump, big line kit, I need to order the auto transmission replacement kit from here as my metal ones had been wearing out just before this, and gauges and A pillar. DANG, this got crazy expensive. I can't even begin to tally up what this is going to cost. I will update as I make my selections/purchases and then work to install it all. I'm getting an estimate from a local shop, but with the cash outlay this represents, I doubt I can hire them to do it and will do all the work myself. I appreciate all the support and help you guys give.

I will go back and do that, but when I initially broke down I removed each of the test ports in turn and had fuel spew all over when I bumped the starter and had fuel coming from the VP44 banjo bolt when I loosened it. But this was back in March. But I did get ~12 psi out of both the test ports 2 days ago.

The saga continues... Batteries were dead yesterday so I had to charge the overnight and today. #1, 3 and 4 were still loose from the other day. I cranked for a 30 count. It turned and turned, never acted like it would start. I let it rest a while. Thought I might have seen a little fuel under #3. I backed off #1 and #3 so they were wobbling but still holding the threads just a touch and #4 was very loose. Crank for a 30 count. It turned and turned, never acted like it would start. Let it rest for a little while. Crank for a 30 count. It turned and turned, never acted like it would start. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Crank for a 30 count. It turned and turned, never acted like it would start. I never got anything as far as it trying to stutter or come to life. I tried to get codes in case there had been a change. I could not get my OBDlink MX Bluetooth to pair and connect with either phone. I'll try a tablet tomorrow, but I don't understand. I'm wondering if my darned reader got fried. Does anyone have suggestions on working with it?

I'm with Mike. My Dad used to HARP on me about NEVER parking a vehicle empty. His rule was that you NEVER park a vehicle with less fuel than it would take to get to the hospital without stopping. With our trucks requiring the fuel be a cooling vehicle to the pumps and lubrication....I leave as much in as is reasonable. To ME, running under 1/8 full in these trucks isn't something I'd recommend. YMMV.

Yeah, that is part of what is making this tough, I am working alone. So I'll loosen 1,3 and 5 (how much?) and crank 30 secs. If I hadn't already showered up and 5:30 coming quickly, I'd just about go back out and try it.

Hello everyone! I've been working like crazy. Not enough hours in the day to do it all. I work in a field now that they don't appreciate you coming in smelling like diesel fuel, so I hadn't been cracking into the fuel system. I did. I took out one of the Test Port Fittings on the Fuel/Water Separator. I found out that is a regular tapered pipe thread. I got a pressure check kit (which after I paid $40 for it found out that it isn't designed for diesel use, so likely have to consider it a 1 time diagnostic fee) and fittings to make it work. Good and bad news.... I placed the gauge on the "in"(closest to cab) side of the F/WS, bled it and bumped and turned crank. I got about 12psi. I did the same on the "out" (closest to radiator) side and got the same 12 psi. So it would appear that my fuel transfer pump is pumping it well. I cracked the #1 injector and bumped. Then bumped. Then bumped. Nothing. I tightened that and cracked #3 and bumped. And bumped. And cranked. Nothing. I was re-reading some of the comments above. Perhaps I should go crack (read-I unscrewed it a few turns but didn't have it unthreaded) an injector and crank it for 10-15 secs a few times? Or is the VP-44 just 86'ed?

I backed them way off, basically to the point it was going to come off. But I'll double check myself and step through it all again. As always, when it rains it pours, so I'm trying to get to it. I had to go buy a vehicle just so I could keep rolling. But I'm going to get my girl running. LOL.... I just realized that the bolts on top of that filter/separator are the Fuel Pressure Test Ports! I feel like a real idiot. What size are those bolts so I can fab up a test gauge??

I will try that. I think my description wasn't right on. I got done and was a little ticked at the whole situation. I did put the filter back together. I have bumped it to move fuel through. I then loosened the right banjo bolt on the VP, bumped the starter and got lots of fuel coming through. Bumped again and tightened while coming through. I loosened up #1 and #3 injectors and cranked. Nothing. Nada. I decided I was done playing in the diesel fuel and came in. Maybe I should go through the whole process again just to insure that there isn't air in there. The fuel level in the filter/separator was down quite a bit after dropping it off. Maybe I wasn't as re-primed as I thought and the fuel on the banjo was deceptive. Thanks for the help.

I finally got to work on it a little. I cahanged the fuel filter...much easier than it looked like it would be...and found this nasty sight below. I put it back on and got onto what looked to me to be the low side supply to the VP44 at the banjo and loosened it. Bump the starter and run fuel through. The first time I didnt tighten it back while fuel was going since I was working alone. I then bump the starter to prime system. Bump again. Then vrank. 10 secs. Wait and do something else for 1-2 mins, cranks 15 secs, wait 2 mins. I put in 8 more gals of ruel to bring tank level up a little. Crank for 20-30 secs. Nothing. Nothing is coming out around my injectors (1 and 3) that I had loosened up. I was trying to follow the instructions in that bosch article. Anything else to do to? Should I step back through yo proove it is or isnt vp? I didnt have a pressure gauge. I still am not sure how to put on in the various areas. I saw some video where the guy took a spare bolt w a smooth shoulder that fit into the top of the filter/separator then drilled a hole through the center, clamped on a hose and then attached a gauge to that. Is that what I need to do? Wagt about testing at the vp? On the backside of vp before rail? At injectors? Any help is appreciated. I dont want to buy a VP! Yes, the photos are troubling. New filters are stark white.

You guys are great. I haven't been able to work on it all weekend. Let me use these diagrams I just found to help explain what I did. What I am calling "bleeder bolts" is most likely incorrect, but are found on the top of the fuel filter/water separator. In the VP44.jpg I've attached, they are the #14 bolts on the top outside of the F/W separator. I have NOT touched the VP44. I was pre and post VP44. I did break into the injector that lies behind the #19 and #14 labels on that same diagram, not where they are pointing, but where those labels are on the picture. No apologies needed from anyone on this! I REALLY, REALLY appreciate it.

Tell me exactly how to do that and I will get it in motion. Are we talking screwing a pressure gauge in to top of filter/separator? If so, what kind and where do I get it? Install the fuel pressure gauge I so desperately need? (which I am still unclear what is the best route to go there).

Ok... As I said (I think) Igot the 3rd from front injector broke loose. It wasnt spurting fuel when i bumped the starter, but I had drained the filter/water separator and evidently had that a little low. I loosened the forward most bleeder bolt on the top of the separator. Bump starter and we get some fuel coming. Put that back on, loosen and remove most posterior and to the driver side bolt on top of separator. Bump. fuel, Fuel, FUEL! All over. Gotta love that 25 sec post off run. We had fuel movingthrough injector while it was off. It seemed to move a decent amount thru. Then replace injector tip and finger tighten. Bump, bump, grind...no fuel coming out around nut. Loosen and still none. My take...the fuel lift pump is working and seems to be putting out fuel. But filter is needing replaced. Fuel pressure is low/inconsistent. I dont know enough to say anything about VP44. I am #hoping# it is ok. I gave up for the night. I called and got a ride. May end up renting a car and towing the truck. But I guess tow home even though I dont know what to do next to test. Thanks for the help so far.

Wow, i was off. Bump, buzz...25secs. I timed it. I will crack open an injector or 2 and see if we are getting anything. I borrowed a tiny crescent. Got the 3rd injector from the front to finally let go. Have a screwdriver wedged just enough in the line so the tip is out of the seat for it. Reconnect battery and connector at bottom of filter/seperatir....bump....buzz....no fuel. Gonna attack that filter/separator. But no registered oil pressure when I turn on the key bothers me. An yes, agteed on FP gauge. Only now was getting money to do that stuff. Been a loooong dry spell that is finally breaking, but it is looking like not soon enough.

Thanks! And found that Isquirreled a basicsocketset andmy haynes manual in the truck. Breaking open the fuelcanister up front to checkand make sure no blockage there once I review the manual.