jamman

Merging onto highway, truck running just fine. Get to 55-60ish and sudden loss of power, not decreased, nothing. Rpms looked ok, think i hit it to see if it revved, but now I cant remember if it did. I remember thinking that i just lost my trans. But in tbe dame moment my engine was dead. I was only trying to stay safe and no longer diagnose. As i coastef up different offramp, i had it in N and tried to start.cranked but no start. Stopped it, i turn key on,i hear a motor upfront. Try to start. Engine cranks, but doesnt start. W key on, i am reading no oil presure on OEM gauge. Well, needle just comes up a little but is still touching red zero line. Oil seems ok, trans fluid seems ok, adiator is cool and full of coolant and temp gauge says 140. When I turn key off then on, i dont hear any motors in the rear like a fuel pump. Ideas? Did my Fuel pump give up? Vp44? I have basically zero tools. I would have to go home. I do have my OBDLink MX and phone. But I dont seem able to get the codes off it usong turbo. I will even take help w that. I think i have the obd software on here, but jave to go look. LG G2 phoneand have turbo free on it. Currently sitting safe at a gas station 3 blocks or so fromw where i stopped. Had my chains and a couple guys pulled me here.

Hi guys, I put new tires on a year ago. A little after I did, I started hearing some rubbing during turning. I did not oversize the tiers. I went with the 265's that had been on there before. Well, today I finally saw where the rubbing sound must have been coming from. It is in the passenger front tire well. The rubber line that terminates at the hub. I'll post up pictures in a second. I'm going to have to replace the line. But I did nothing but put on new tires. I'm trying to figure out what is causing it to rub. I can't tell that the mount got turned or bent. Any ideas?

Those are some pics from under the truck. Sorry to steer this thread back onto my original topic. ;) From what I can tell, there seems to be 3 lines involved with the transmission. 1 driver's side, 1 passenger's side, and one short one that goes from driver's side <> passenger side. As you can tell in the pictures, they all suffer from corrosion right under the plastic retainer clips so I want to replace all 3 lines while I'm in there. Mike: 1) Does your kit you offer have 3 lines in it? It looked like it might in the picture, but there seemed to be only 4 connectors. But I know nothing about this, so I couldn't tell. 2) The port you were thinking about putting in your OEM pan.... is it this one?: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-55109/overview/ the 55109? 3) Would then use a sensor like this one for the temperature? http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/MPETS3001SB_0481950217 Maybe there is a write up on this somewhere and I missed it. If so, PLEASE point me there and I'll try to stop bothering people. 4) These metal hoses bend and run all over the place. You recommend mounting the lines with 1/2" rubber coated hose clamps. Do you mount them to the engine to give them support? How do you do that? I don't know how much support those lines require. I want to do this 1 time and be done with them. I don't want them to have a pint of fluid in them all the time yanking up and down unsupported as I bounce down the highway. 5) Are you sticking with OEM pan to save some $$ right now instead of going with larger capacity aftermarket pan? Everything seems geared to getting a couple extra quarts of fluid for cooling. Just wondering. Have I mentioned lately how much I like this site?

I would as well, but even if I get those lines here ASAP, I'm going to be driving it for work a few days this week and losing fluid all the time. It isn't just a little flow. I'm thinking of finding some rubber and getting under there and clamping it over the bad area of the hose while I wait for a part to come in so it is more of a leak than a bleed!. So $5 a quart is cheap to keep the transmission alive since I have no other option for wheels. I need to get photos to show the amount. I have never done a trans pan.If I do this route I'll need to get a gasket, correct? So do I need the moroso mentioned by Frankenstein? Will that work with the goerend pan if I order that? Also, Goerend recommends Mopar Trans Filter #3515996 for the trans. Can that be picked up at the local Napa/O'Reillys/AutoZone? Also, what do I need for using that Trans Temp port? What sensor? Where is it suggested I pick it up? I know I want to have that for future towing. Thanks so much guys. I really appreciate the help.

I meant that I would be getting a partial fluid change from the fact that I have this leak and must keep driving, so I'll have to keep topping it off. Yes, once I fix the lines I agree that I need to change the fluid and have fresh in there. So that kit is both lines that run parallel to each other to the driver's lower side of engine. I need to take some photos tomorrow and post them up. And am I understanding that link correctly...the port is already in there for hooking up your transmission temp gauge? It is in the best location for the gauge? That would be cool.

Hi all, I was towing my trailer today as I was looking at cars to buy. It is a nice, heavy 18ft trailer, but I was towing empty. I got back after pulling 150 miles and noticed spots all over the front of the trailer that could have been confused w diesel splash. Crawled under and found that the leak is on the hard lines from the trans to the trans cooler, right at a plastic retainer clip about just above transfer case. Their is corrosion there, appearing that salt got held their and it corroded and swelled and today it decided to rub through or blow a pin hole. It is a healthy leak. i pulled into parts store and bought some ATF+4 and funnel, topped it and came home since parts store looked it up and said it wasn't in stock. But I don't trust the kid, he found one line that was $92 and it didn't look just right and the truck has 2. I will try and use the part lookup tool when I get back to the house as I am working on my work iPad (ptooey!) and the tool isn't compatible. so, I will be installing new lines. But what else should I do while I am fooling w it? It is a daily driver right now. 165k miles. I have never serviced it. Never changed the fluid, but it will be getting a good flushing over the next workweek! I know there are bands, but not much else. I run highway speeds(up to 90mph) and towing good work trailer w car or sometimes bobcat or small tractor. Should I still get in there and drop the pan and look to see condition? All suggestions are appreciated. I confirmed today that I must have a failed thermostat. Running 70-80 w trailer and I just barely raised over the first hash mark, which makes it 160ish? So I need to do a search on the tstat info. thanks in advance!

Maybe this should be more self-evident and I'm just not getting it, but why the NPT fittings on the back side of the mod? Just a preference? You're not attaching another hose to it. Or is it an attempt to direct the oil just a little bit farther back? I didn't think I needed this mod, but I began inspecting my radiator this past week and realized that it has hidden the amount of build up of oil and dirt on the back side. Plenty of Simple Green is on the shopping list this week to use to soak and re-soak the radiator and then flush it with the garden hose. Good thing I love this truck. It likes LOTS of maintenance.

Amazon finally got the scanner to me. I'll be driving the truck on Monday. maybe it will act up, maybe it won't. It seems to only act up on the first 70 mile drive after a fill up. But not every time. I finally got a paycheck from the new job, so I'll be stopping tomorrow to get a fuel filter at the parts house and need to do an oil change pretty soon. Right now, dealing with a stomach bug, so not playing with the truck today. So I need to put up the display for fuel pressure at idle, cruising and??

Michael, your reply is almost a sticky in of itself. Having a list of good scan tools and what their strengths are is very helpful for those of us not doing this all the time. I have the OBDLink MX on its way. It says that it will work on Fords (ptooey!) and other makes as well, which is handy as I like to work on the family's vehicles also. I'm going to make a different post, but taking pics of my AWFUL brake lines and post it to get some recommendations. I really appreciate all the help on here.

Darned Amazon....ordered that scan tool on Tuesday and it still hasn't shipped. Looks like it will ship out on Monday. On the positive note, I am enjoying getting 16mpg out of the truck! I don't know that it ever has run this efficiently, which surprises me greatly. Hesitation and acting like it has no power, but then get 16mpg on these 65mile one way trips. These are values from calculating gallons in and miles traveled. And I am putting in 1 oz/1 gal of 2 cycle TC-TW (or whatever is on there) from Wal-Mart.

Ok! I should have written after that. I went and read more of the description on that item and the 3 yr warranty, so I was sold and ordered it after that. It should be on its way ASAP. Meanwhile, I need to do some reading tonight and get the stuff for a pressure gauge installation on its way. I have needed to do that for years. But I'm finally where I can afford to order these items and install them. Having a decent paying job is sure darned handy! It's just tough when you're playing catch up.

Thanks for the suggestion. May I ask what makes this one better? It is $80 as opposed to the $15 cheapies. I know sometimes they are better, but want to understand

I wish I were. I went out multiple times trying to plug the reader in and get it to pair, but no success. I tried starting with key off, plug in module, turn on key. Turn on key, plug in module, no success. Plug in module, turn on truck, no success. Is there a key to getting that thing to work? Are chrysler products incompatible with those scanners? Or maybe mine is dead. I plug it in and it runs through all the LEDs, then it stays a solid red LED on. But nothing is broadcasting that my tablet or phone sees so it can pair with it. So, I guess I need to order a new module. I'd like cheap and works. Does anyone have a suggestion?

Ok, look like this app will provide that? Going to grab the tablet right now to see if it had enough charge.

No fuel gauge. I need to hook one up. I just started a new job, so this will likely have to wait until this weekend. I need to go search for the info on installing that as well as order in the gauge. There used to be debate on the mechanical/electronic route. I kind of like the mechanical idea so you never have electrical failure on your gauges. If someone remembers where that page is, feel free to link it and save me the search. ;) I am stock. No foolers, no programmer, nothing. I have an ELM 327 bluetooth reader. I got it a couple years back or more on Amazon, and it is like this one: http://www.walmart.com/ip/47562952?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227034806092&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=56808673778&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=88566201218&veh=sem I'm charging the tablet and am going to install Torque https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree or something like that. I hope to get live data as I drive tomorrow. Will that do what you need to help figure this out? Does anyone have a better suggestion on the software to use? I REALLY appreciate the interest and help!! jamman And the old truck is up to around 162k or so now.

Let me paint the picture. Monday of last week saw me begin driving ~120 miles/day to a new job. I filled the tank up on the truck that weekend. I had not topped up with 2 cycle lately, but had a residual amount in there that I felt was sufficient due to always putting in either 16 oz or 32 oz, just depending how close I was to 1/2 a tank or a full tank. Oil checked out good, trans fluid ok, etc. Good to go. Monday morning. 30~ miles in, hit a valley and as I start to pull up out of the hill, I can't hardly get her to go. It lacked power. It wouldn't downshift like it normally does when it grabs a gear to pull. The turbo wasn't spooling up. And it would sort of sputter sometimes and lug down. But nothing was consistent. At times it acted like it might get power, but then just wouldn't go. I limped like this the rest of the way to work. All the way I was trying to think it through...Do I have water in the fuel? Do I have something getting sucked up on the diptube? Have I got a plugged injector? Have I got a fouled fuel filter? What??? Took the truck ~5 miles for lunch, and it wasn't a power beast, but wasn't as bad as that morning. I get in the truck that evening and it drives just fine. Like she normally does. I go to O'Reilly and they pull the codes for me and all I have is a P0234-Turbo Boost Limit Exceeded on the Bosch Scan tool the tech used. It's too late for me to do anything, so I just dread the next day driving to work. Drives just fine. I run 2.5 days on that tank and then fill up. I got about 14.4mpg on it(hand calc'd), which was great as I was anticipating about 12mpg from previous performances. I fill up, and I honestly can't remember if I added 2 cycle. Truck continues to run great. I finish out the week. I fill up the tank for the week to come. 16.2mpg!!! I don't even put in 27 gals of fuel for something around 430 miles(all from memory, records out in truck). This time I add 32oz of 2 cycle from WalMart and I am ready for Monday morning. I warmed the truck for a long time (30 mins+) this morning and she was fully warmed up. I pulled off the farm and thought I felt reminders of last Monday. Sure enough, it starts doing a similar batch of loss of power. Never as extreme as last Monday, but certainly a loss of power and missing what I would call downshifting for power and not the usual boost I would feel and hear. Guess what happened this evening? Yep, drove just fine. Not a hint of issues. Have I got trash in the tank? Do I have a dirty wastegate that needs attention? Have I got a cat stuck in my injectors and gumming up the works? What is going on? I would appreciate any lucid ideas!!! I'll get you any answers/info I can. I don't have anything on the truck as far as gauges right now. All stock. Thanks all!

I have condensed all the suggestions into a list. I would LOVE to have input into what would be a suggested order in which to attack them. Also, if you have a good, comprehensive link to point at, I’ll add that to the list. If you have a good idea of cost, please feel free to mention it and I’ll add it. I’ll make a master list and will plan on making it a different comprehensive post and try to keep it updated with photos, facts and links as I step through this. So far, here is our list: 1) 2 stroke oil. 1 oz per gal is what I’ve been adding. 2) Rebuild steering box - $40 http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=1116 http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-0801-saginaw-steering-box-rebuild/ 3) Rebuild power steering pump - $?? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-12v-dodge-cummins/70-steering-and-suspension/502-hotrod-ps-pump 4) New ball joints - $?? 5) Hubs (new seals on the front axles?) - $?? 6) Shocks - $120? 7) Sway bar ends/ Sway bar bushings - $?? Other items 1) Powerwash/spray paint 2) Fuel pressure system, FASS? Fuel Boss? - $600-$1,000 3) Gauges(EGT, Fuel pressure, transmission temp, ??) - $?? 4) Bumper (Thinking CPP or make a similar one myself) - $700

Buzz.... I understand the one statement about replacing shocks. But I don't follow on the comments about the caster. I don't know enough about it to even know what I'm missing. Could you expand on it? Thanks

Ok, thanks for the input on the lift. That is what the spec sheet said back when. I wish I remember how I found that. It was on one of the forums, said to contact Dodge or someplace with the VIN, then you'd get a spec sheet returned. I did, and that was listed that way. Yes, the previous owner had been further north during the earlier stages of some of the windmill farm construction. So it was not a southern truck and the rust has taken its toll. It is bad enough that it has made me wonder at times if I should put the energy into this truck or just look for another. By good quality paint, do you mean a rust preventative type or just a good black spray paint? It

I absolutely want to put in the FASS system. But funds have been very limited and as much as I hate to be stranded on the side of the road, I'm more concerned with flying OFF the side of the road, LOL. Seriously, lots of curves. But will be able to do that in a reasonable amount of time once I start the job. ^This is driver side, from the rear looking forward. ^This is driver side, from the rear, looking at passenger rear wheel. ^This is the front passenger side to show the track bar. Am I correct in thinking I have the HD set up already? ^This is midline, at the adjustment. ^The Luke's Link. You can tell I hit it well with the grease when I filled it. ^ Some poor shots of what I take to be the steering box we were talking about. Hard to tell if it is leaking. The puke tube has puked all over it. ^And my truck

Thanks for the quick help. I look forward to even more suggestions. Yes, I am running 2 stroke. I forgot to mention that. Started that back some time ago after reading it here. Stock saganaw box rebuild- I will have to go look and see if it is leaking. Is your suggestion to do this only IF it is leaking, or I'd be better off to do it anyway? And you mean without the huge cost of Redhead? 6" factory lift- I am the 2nd owner. The first was a lady that ordered her truck from the factory and had a number of options. Tow package was one. The 6" lift was another. I forget where it is now, but I took the VIN way back when and emailed Dodge or somehow got the printout of what was in the truck. Those were things that came back on it. I did not lift it. I don't know where that list is now or exactly how I came by it. By hubs, do you mean pull the wheel and do the seals in there on the 4wd axle? I'm a bit hazy on this. Lighting - Well, on that one I've decided to stick with the engineered route. I did enjoy the article and there are some very neat aspects to it. I spent some time communicating with Daniel Stern and he made some rather cogent arguments why to stay with the OEM sport housings and bulbs. On this one, I've decided not to go the DIY route on my main headlights. But I really appreciate the thought! So, if I am understanding the thinking..... $35 to rebuild my steering box to eliminate it and upgrade it. Jack up the truck and yank/crank around on everything and observe while someone else turns wheel in cab. That should tell me things. Basically, everything should be tight and not move unless it is told to move from the cab?

Situation: Beginning a new job soon with 145 mile daily commute on hilly, curvy roads. Limited snow and ice. Truck still has play in steering, poor OEM lights, and mileage is sadly around 12mpg the last time I calculated it. Steering was some improved after addition of Luke's Link, but at highway speeds of 70mph the truck required me to keep 2 hands on the wheel to make sure I had control at all times. Truck: ’99 Quad Cab w/8 ft bed. Installed lower(?) balls joints on both sides a couple years ago, er...had installed. Installed Luke’s Link on OEM track bar Aug 2015 as I put on new tires and it could be aligned due to slop in the front end. Goal: 1st is safety. That means I have to see when I’m in the dark. It also means that I have to be able to keep the truck on the road with all the curves. I want to do what I can, within reason, beyond just keeping the foot off the pedal to improve the fuel economy (I know I’m not going to get huge increases, but even 2-3mpg would be great). Plan of Action: 1st, I’m going to crawl under the truck and make sure the Luke’s Link is still tight and see if any other components are loose. I’m no front suspension expert, so any pointers or directing me to specific threads would be great. There is almost TOO much info to sift through sometimes. 2nd, I have spoken with Daniel Stern about lighting. I’m going to install a 12ga harness for the lights to give them the full amperage they deserve. I’m also going to replace the OEM bulbs with Phillips improved 9004’s. When I get the money, I will then replace the OEM light housing with the OEM Sport Housing. Daniel convinced me to stick with the engineered components for longevity and reliability. I’m toying with the idea of adding some of further lighting like Mike did, but only after I have everything up and running the way it ought to be. Btw, my stock lights are about as hazed as can be. I know it isn’t great, but may try and sand them for a temporary minor improvement while I wait to get the money to order my sport housings. Question: What more do I need to do to get safe for all the hills and curves right now? Am I needing to replace track bar with HD version and that will improve steering/handling? I know I need a fuel pump ASAP and gauges, but those aren’t safety issues. I need them soon, as this truck has over 150k on the original VP44. But the front end and steering are what really has me a bit concerned. I know we all have lots of irons in the fire, but with everyone’s experience I hoped to save some time by at least having you point me to “go that way” rather than learning all aspects of the front end on a short time frame. Thanks for the help!!

Subscribing.

I'm about to be a COTA. Certified Occupational Therapy Assistant. We help people gain/regain independence in the jobs/occupations of living ranging from basic self care to even assisting them get back to work and dealing with ergonomics. Our focus isn't just rehab, but rehab focused on things that are important to the person. It is a growing field and has a HUGE domain, meaning we really can help in most situations whether it is disease, physical injury, developmental issues, etc. AOTA, the governing organization for Occupational Therapy defines it as " Occupational therapy is the only profession that helps people across the lifespan to do the things they want and need to do through the therapeutic use of daily activities (occupations). Occupational therapy practitioners enable people of all ages to live life to its fullest by helping them promote health, and prevent—or live better with—injury, illness, or disability. - See more at: http://www.aota.org/conference-events/otmonth/what-is-ot.aspx#sthash.7Q8FeEJC.dpuf " Anyway..... I had my truck from my construction background. I love the beast. Maybe I need to make a thread about my truck and the things I do to it. I need to work on the lighting, the fuel pump, gauges, etc. But I just realized I am hijacking the original post. MY APOLOGIES!!!! Thanks guys!