Liviniuk

No codes but I haven't done the hold the trip reset and turn key to acc. Yet to look for c codes. It's something with either the cluster itself or something on the can bus. Maybe the radio deck? I'm not sure what else runs off the bus.

Just seeing if anyone else has had there cluster go nuts while driving. Oil, battery, fuel and temp guages dont move, they stay fine. The tach and speedo go to 0. The dash chimes every time it does it. Every light comes on the cluster. Signal light indicators on dash dont work but the exterior lights work fine. Then for a split second you can see the message no bus flash. I'm at a loss with this. Truck runs, starts fine. Dosent create any other problems but a real annoyance. It comes and goes. Sometimes wont do it one day, then the next it's none stop. Every 3 to 5 seconds the chime, and the lights and tach and speedo going to zero. Any help much appreciated!!!

I got very lucky that the studs of the torx bolts were not seized or tight in the holes in the block. They came out like butter. Moving the power steering pump and vacuum pump as a whole was a complete breeze to. 2 bolts. Let's you get it out of the way more than enough to get to the 2 bolts. Just be very careful with the o ring when putting back together!!

I figured I could get them out. Just haven't come across a definite answer about running the vp44 without the bracket. Some say it could crack the timing cover...where others have said they had over 200k on there truck before even knowing the bracket was broken.

I managed to move the vp/sp just enough to get to the broken bolts. Nice and gently with a 1/8th bit I made a hole and used an easy out and got the top stud out...then the bottom bolt had a bit of thread showing so I managed to get it out with vice grips. Phew!! My lucky day. Couple new 8x1.25 bolts and the bracket is back in business!

No for sure. Just wondering what the worst case would be without bracket

So...need honest answers. What's the worst case scenario if a rear mounting bracket isn't used for the vp44. I've heard of guys who had 200plus or more not notice until the vp44 change. I honestly dont feel like pulling the steering pump and try to easy out a broken bolt out of the block. Had anyone heard of anything go catastrophically wrong if there is no rear mount?

So...after 4 months of putting up with the hard start...I canned the junk lift pump again and went fass titanium. Then I popped the valve cover retorqued all the injectors, also injection lines. Damn thing starts half a crank. Why didnt I do this 6 months ago thought I'd post and help someone else out. I did get half a turn maybe a bit more out of the 8mm injector hold down bolts and injector nuts. Who knows. It's been rock solid for a week now so, here's to hoping!

So here's the issue. I have power to my 7 pin on the truck, but when I plug rv into truck, no running lights. Have brake hazards and signals. I used a test light and confirmed I have power to the 7 pin. Any ideas? Trailer wiring is good. Tested it on my 01 cummins and all lights work. Also, truck seems to be losing prime at under half a tank, lift pump or check valve? Any suggestions would be great!!

2 months later...problem solved... Believe it or not...the only damn hose I did not check or even thought of was the fuel pressure gauge hose....it rubbed a pin hole leak from vibration....finally rubbed enough to see fuel pissing out of it. Was in a really crappy spot that was not accessible to the eye. The old 01 fires like a top again!!!!

HahaHaha sounds like a plan but I dont think I need injectors lol

I haven't watched the pressure when cranking...but when I've bumped the starter it goes from 0 to 22ish like right now Yes batteries fluctuate as per standard procedure. And they are 3 years old which makes me wonder. I did load test them yesterday and they did check out. They were in the green, and yes I checked them individually. I also tested while charging and that also checked out I've had issues with 3rd and 4th gens over the years and batteries, where they get a bit weak and everything is a downhill slide so it makes me wonder again. They load tested but just passed Thanks for all the replies fellas. I appreciate the ideas your coming in with. This is a great forum. Thanks!!

It will do the split second spike to say 15ish or so then yes slowly bleed down to zero. I let the grid do its thing then when it starts its straight to 20-22psi and no drawn down

It will or has been until this morning crank for 10 seconds or so then pop off. Idle will be perfect, no sputter no quitting. In the winter plugged in it would pop off no problem. Once imafyer the initial morning start its smooth sailing rest of day. Shut the truck off for a few hours and it will still start right now. It's just over night. Until like I said earlier I cleaned up the batteries and all connections last night and left the fuel cap open a hair, and this morning it fired right up maybe 1.5 revolutions as per usual. Was +2, +3 celcius when I started it. So that's why I'm almost wondering if it is battery related or a clogged tank vent because something changed

Yes I get that. Just thinking if dirty/bad connection, would cause truck to turn over slower, make it harder to start in the AM with a cold engine. One way to check would I guess to plug it in and see if that changes anything as well. If it pops right off plugged in then maybe she ain't getting enough juice to turn over sufficiently in the cooler mornings

I know these trucks are voltage/amp sensitive and if it dosent have adequate juice that will also produce bad starts. I'm sure the dirty terminals and connections didnt help anything. Ya. The banjo on the back of the head was cleaned and installed with new washers and tee has been checked. I could always change the push on o ring for what its worth.

Ya that's an option if its losing prime but isnt fixing the problem unfortunately. I'm gonna do the moparman route and check for leaks and probably wind up pulling injectors and tubes just for reassurance.

I've done the poor boy test and it's good. I guess when I R&R the injectors I'll do a proper test as well since I'm already there.

You betcha sir. I've got all day and baby powder ha. I'd like to rule out low compression but I cant speculate without do a test. Wishful thinking again! I wonder if cleaning up the batteries and all connections made a difference. I almost wonder if the motor wasnt spinning fast enough when cold to start it immediately

100% agreed. Just wishful thinking it's something less. But...with unknown idea of how many km are on injectors and tubes it very well could be as well. As moparman said, could get some bigger injectors i want anyway and swap em out and bench test the old ones. If they are good then they can be backups

Roger that moparman. I also have a P0380 code, it's been there for quite a while but has never affected anything. I can get injectors fairly cheap which is no prob, probably the only good thing about vp44 24vs lol. New injectors and tubes. In the injectors and tubes were out last year and they looked good but weren't bench tested. I know I know... New washers o rings ect. Truck started and ran flawlessly. Still runs flawlessly just this damn 15 cranks every morning. Except this morning Haha. Next step will be the shop vac in the tank and see what happens. I appreciate the help fellas!!

I cant say for certain how many km are on the injectors and tubes. That is quite possible also. That will be the next step in the process will be removing injectors and tubes if all else fails Its roughly 3 to 4 celcius this morning I'm going to try and start it and count how many seconds to start Ok something has changed since yesterday. 1 maybe 1.5 revolutions and it popped right off like as it should cold. WTS light on for 9 seconds before it popped off. Yesterday I took off all battery cables and cleaned every connection. Wasnt bad but wasnt perfect. I then cleaned up grid heater connections ect. I shoved my hand up under tank and pushed on the fuel lines to to make sure. I also left the fuel tank cap loose. So now I think I'm down to either 1. Something with the grid heater not working properly? 2. Tank vent clogged. At least I know it's not injectors and tubes

Ya I read somewhere that those IAT sensors can shoot up bad and cause all sorts of problems. I'll look into that for sure. I'll get on that sensor, check the vp check valve and check a few other things before I decide to pull injectors and tubes. Probably wouldn't hurt to go over all that jazz anyways.

2001 6 speed. So here's the story. Lately when the truck sits over night it cranks 10 seconds if not more to start. Rest of the day is no issue. I've got 20psi to the vp44. I've parked nose down. I've checked every bolt and fuel line. I've checked and load tested the batteries. Batteries are a touch on the weak side but not bad. I cannot for the life of me figure it out. Fuel tubes and injectors were pulled and re o ringed ect. A year ago. Any ideas? I'm honestly down to replacing the vp44 check valve and the fuel heater on the canister o rings. I understand its losing prime somehow but I'm having a hell of a time finding where. Once it fires up its bump the key and it pops. I'm going to pull the LP fuse next and see what happens. If that dosent help I'll pinch off the return line before the tank and see what happens. Any insight would be great. Vp44 is less than a year old. Wait to start light works as it should as per normal. No excessive smoke ect. Turn the key to on and LP kicks on for the split second as per. Truck runs / sounds as normal once it starts in the morning. Cannot figure this out.