FumminsDan

I’ve checked that and it’s not connected. My understanding is the early 24v like mine is suppose to be like that. But I’m gonna connect it tomorrow and see if anything changes. Thanks

Sorry for the long post but I have to give some background. 08 f250 with 00 24v Cummins. Recently finished the swap and have been driving around for the past month. Truck seems very slow until converter locks up. With a sxe363 63/68/14 and DAP 175hp sac injectors I’m only seeing around 20 psi of boost with 50% throttle and seeing 1200-1300 on egts. I just started playing with tuning on my quad adrenaline (NO WIRE TAP) and was able to get the egts down some but the boost still seems low. Actually lower. At 50% throttle, 2500rpm, lvl3 quad, egts are now 1100 and boost is 16psi. I’ve been told by some that my boost #s are extremely low for my setup. I’ve made a boost leak tester and found a leak at grid heater and did a delete and now have no leaks. I also noticed that my boost reading at the ford sensor (connected to dash daq) in the intake horn (readings I’ve been going off of) are higher than the quad reading. The quad reads about half of what the ford sensor reads at any given psi. (ie- 16psi ford is 8psi quad). I changed the Cummins map sensor today and it didn’t change anything. I just need to know if this is normal for my setup or if it’s way off ? I’ll post my tune below. Truck details are in sig. Thanks Power levels-10 rpm limit-3400 valet power-75% pump tap-none max load timing offset-3.0 low psi timing reduct-4.0 timing reduce scaling-100% light throttle timing advance-5.0 light throttle load limit-0 rpm timing max- 1500-14 2000-18 2500-22 3000-25 3500-26 boost level fueling can bus 0 through 14 psi- 80-94 (increments of 1) 15 through 18 psi- 96-100 (increments of 2) 20-108 22-114 24-120 26-130 28-140 30-150

Codes are listed above. I won’t be able to check the WTS light till tomorrow. I’m on duty at the fire station and won’t be home till tomorrow.

I cleared them twice and they come back. The vp44 only runs when wired to battery. It might not have pulled fuel on its own since I was still trying to bleed it. With the vp wired to battery it would try to start with the fass connected to 12v but not connected to lift pump plug. Also it will not attempt to start at all with the stock harness connected to the vp.

I do have the Cummins pcm installed and hooked up. I’ve used my code reader and have pulled several codes before the ecm was sent off and now it’s still throwing the same codes after repair plus a new one. Codes are p0122, p0123,p0222 (new code) p0237,p0336,p0380,p0382, p1287,p1689,p1698 Note that I do not have the grid heater hooked up.

Ok that makes sense but with the fass plugged into the lift pump plug it’s not pumping fuel to the vp. It cycles on for 2 sec with key on but will not cycle on when starter is bumped. Also with the vp wired to the battery it was not even trying to fire up until I connected fass to 12v. Makes me believe the fass was not getting signal to pump any fuel at all during cranking wired to factory plug. The directions from auto computer specialist also says that I can only use a factory Cummins lift pump. Not sure why. When I get a chance I’ll hook up a test light to the WTS wire coming from the ecm and see what I get.

I just got it back from being repaired by Auto Computer Specialist. They repaired the apps circuit, lift pump circuit, and also changed out the cpu and processor and reflowed the pins. My vp44 was also sent back to Midwest fuel injection a couple weeks before that and they found it had defective electronics. The computer on it was repaired and sent back to me.

When the fass is hooked up to the factory lift pump plug and the vp44 is hot wired to the battery it doesn’t try to crank like it does when the fass is connected to 12v. It also won’t come on after the starter is bumped. I’m not sure about the wait to start light. It comes on on the dash but I’m not sure if it’s turning on by the Cummins ecm or the Ford pcm. I’ve had the ecm repaired already and I’m hoping it’s working correctly. I did read something today about a security lock out within the ecm that could be preventing start up but I’m not sure if that’s actually true or not.

Update. I wired the fass pump to 12v so it’s constantly running and putting out 17psi. I also hot wired the vp44 to the battery and it is now trying to start. I then unhooked the wires and connected the harness back to the vp44 and it just turns over with no attempt to start. I re-checked continuity of all wires from vp plug to ecm and all are good. I also have good ground and good voltage at the plug. I’ve also tried wiggling the plug while someone cranks and still no change. Any ideas ?

Yes you can hear it click on

That is my next step because I just cracked all the lines open at the injectors and cranked for about 30 seconds and I’m barely getting any fuel out of the lines. I put a rag under #3 and it didn’t even wet the rag and the nut was completely loose. #6 does seem to be getting more fuel than all the others though.

DAP is who I bought the pump from. When I sent it in for repair they had me send it to Midwest fuel injection.

Tried hot wire test and I got nothing. Not even a sputter. You can hear the pump click on when you connect it to battery but it still won’t start. I’ve now pulled the breather and nut on pump to check keyway and it’s still in place and looks fine. Not sure where to go from here now. I’ve already sent the pump back under warranty once and they found the computer was bad. Is it possible they didn’t test it and sent it back still broken.

Around 10psi

New here and can really use some help. This might not be the right section to post this but i figured id have better luck here. I just recently finished swapping a 24v into my ford and have been having a problem getting it to start. Before I say this my heater grid is not hooked up and i know its horrible on the motor but the truck will only start with a small hit of ether.Once its started it runs perfect. Idles great sounds smooth and revs up like it should.Once you shut it off and try to start it right back up it wont start. It wont even sputter or sound like its trying to start. The vp44 is brand new and was part of the problem originally when i first started trying to start it. It has since been pulled off and sent back to find it had a defective computer on it. It was repaired and sent back to me but the truck still will not start without ether. I also just sent the ecm off to be checked and they found it had a bad apps and lift pump circuit. It was repaired and sent back and still the truck will not start without ether. Before the ecm was sent off I had a few codes. p0122,p0237,p0336,p1287,p1689. Now that the ecm was repaired im seeing no codes.I also replaced my brand new crank sensor with another brand new sensor just to be sure and still no change. Fass pump cycles on like it should with key on and im getting good pressure at the pump. If anyone has anything they think i can try or check please let me know. Ive been testing wiring and sending parts off for the past two months and im at my breaking point. Thanks for the help.