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    Hardy, VA

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  1. Just wanted to give an update, The big line kit and gauge went in, everything is working great and no leaks!! The gauge looks and works great, and I know the 1/2” big line kit has to be flowing more fuel (easier anyway). Now the down side...... The dealer installed in-tank pump is delivering 8 psi at idle and 6 psi at WOT and 7 psi at cruise RPM. I kind of expected this but really hoped for 10 psi. Looks like a FASS is in the future. One question I do have, does the gauge bounce slowly (.5 psi variance, maybe 1 psi tops) when idling and a little at cruise RPM? I have a snubber and needle valve at roughly 1/8 turn open. Also, 4.5’ of 1/4” hose (long story) between my needle valve at the T on the big line kit and the sender unit. Any ideas? Thanks!!
  2. @JAG1 I agree, better to be safe than sorry. Do these kits generally stay dry after retightening (if needed) or is this something every 30-50k you have to retighten due to engine vibration? I’m just used to going factory spec on installing things back, so a bit of new ground with this setup. The fella at the local hose and fitting shop said the parker fuel hose would probably last longer than the OEM line when around road salt, but I like to wash that stuff off as quick as it gets on. Quick side question, I know some folks have used the add-a-fuse to power the gauge, did anyone use a 1amp mini in the add-a-fuse or just used the supplied in-line fuse holder with the standard prong fuse? Prob should list this on my other thread but the question just hit me.
  3. This is a bit concerning given my bone stock system has never leaked a drop in 18 years. Is it normal to retighten this kit after install or would some OEM seals work better than the provided ones? I was looking to have a “plug and play” situation but it sounds like a “hold your tongue right and pray” . Would cleaning the threads and the mounting spots help? Maybe teflon tape the treads? Free time is thin and fiddling with a new kit sounds aggravating when stock has served well for almost 20 years. Maybe the banjo kit is better but I liked the benefits of a 1/2 line.....I dunno.....just not the comments (although greatly appreciated) I was expecting.
  4. I’m sure this has been covered 100 times but is 18 ft/lbs the torque spec for the fittings (where the banjo bolts were) on a big line install? This would be on the kit between the vp44 and fuel filter housing. I’m guessing 18 ft/lbs on the adapter fittings (both on the vp44 and filter housing outlet) and hand tight on the 90* that screw onto them? Thanks!!
  5. I like it as well. I have some cuts of bed frame just like his to make the bracket. My prob is I don’t have the boost gauge or sender unit yet. I’m guessing the fittings were the same for the bracket you made for his Isspro gauges? I’m shooting from the hip making the bracket with the “intensions” of doing boost later. Its a bone stock ETH so may be a waste of time other than curiosity. But I want to make sure the simulated bulkhead (brass fittings, or steel like your Vulcan made) fittings are the same before I weld everything up. Then again, I guess the steel could rust with no sender or hose hooked up, may just be worth making a single mount for now.
  6. @Mopar1973Man on the bracket Eric made you and the bracket for @mr.obvious, are the threads for both the FP and boost sensors the same? I’m looking to make a similar bracket for both and just leave the boost empty minus the fitting for now. I’m using Isspro EV2 for FP and will use them for the boost when the day comes. Just want to make sure the threads are the same before welding it. Thanks
  7. On the topic of 2010+ in-tank lift pumps, will 2005 and up in-tank lift pumps fit 02 and back tanks? I’ve tried to do some searching on this and got mixed results. Looking at the Carter specs, they are higher psi and gph than the dealer in-tank retrofit kit carter pumps. Of course this is water under the bridge for modded trucks but what about stock rigs? They are true 3/8” feed from the top of the unit vs the smaller dealer kit pumps. Maybe with a 1/2” big line kit, they would be ok? Bigger questions are if the retrofit wiring will pug in and if the fuel gauge would read correct? I’ve also read where jeep liberty sender units will “fit” if using it in the place of a draw straw set up. But, the gauge reads 1/8 tank off or so. I guess the challenge is using factory (or similar) parts to efficiently upgrade the situation. I’ve seen aftermarket parts like the Fleece in-tank drop in. This may be a great alternative and great engineering, but its price makes kits such as Fass or Airdog a tossup on which way to go. Just my $.02
  8. Thanks again!! I hope to get the parts order in soon and get this project rolling. As a side note, I found Isspro used to ( maybe still does) make a kit. It uses the grease gun hose (or similar) with the needle valve on one end with a banjo fitting and the snubber and sender unit combo on the other. Interesting that they offered this given many say it isn’t long enough to lessen the water hammer effect. Food for thought.
  9. @Mopar1973Man Is the banjo fitting you used on the install above still using the factory hard line or the big line kit? I’m guessing the banjo is between the housing and line? Is this a better way to tap the line vs. cutting the rubber big line kit mid way to the vp44? Any clearance issues vs. mid way T’s on the rubber line? I see folks using 1/2” and 3/8” big line filter to pump kits. Given that i’ll prob go fass 95 or airdog 100 when the day comes (prob sooner than later), most of those are 1/2” fuel lines anyway so “in theory” 3/8” could be a restriction point. But as a side note, doesn’t increased volume lower psi (given a stock in-tank lift pump setup)? Not that i’m suggesting factory pumps and hard lines are a better setup, rather food for thought given a fixed lower psi pump vs. an adjustable higher volume/psi aftermarket setup.
  10. Thanks for the possibilities. I think I spoke to Eric at Vulcan a few weeks ago when I started getting serious about installing a gauge. Very knowledgeable and professional to speak with and he reaffirmed the value of this site and its owner when researching material for these trucks and mods. I wanted to get you all's opinion as well given different installs and ways of doing this. The only thing i'm not sure of (need to ask Eric when we speak again) if he offers and what spec air brake line to purchase that is fuel compatible. Also, @Mopar1973Man, does Eric offer the bracket you show in your article? I'm guessing one is the FP sensor and the other is boost? How did you get 5' of line under the hood as well? I'm guessing route it up by the ABS then down to the bracket? Does fuse #5 also dim with the dash lights or do I need to add a dimming devise and did you put and additional fuse on the line off the adapter? I would image the wiring adapter fuse acts for both the power through the fuse box and the line off the adapter to the gauge. I take it that you used a T under the fuel filter on the truck for @mr.obvious rather than an inline spliced T in the hose for attaching the needle valve and line? The picture looks as if it screwed to the bottom of the filter housing.
  11. One of you may have answered this, but is it a good idea to still have a threaded port (valve like on a car tire) on the vp44 side just as it was from the factory for testing pressure or flow? I’m probably over engineering by this point but its only a couple of bucks to add it to the 90* fitting. Has anyone had trouble easily checking the power steering level and getting the twist cap/stick out with the big line kit/test port on the 90* fitting? Or even just with the big line kit? Looks close but not too bad. @JAG1 “Both trucks have needle valve and also Fuel pressure test ports for checking gauge accuracy.” Is this the valve at the vp44 90* elbow?
  12. I'm thinking of installing the Isspro R17033 RV2 fuel pressure gauge (electric) and the bullet mount. I know they offer a mechanical gauge and perhaps its more accurate, but I like the idea of an easy install and no chance of fuel coming in the cab. I'm also looking at the Vulcan big line filter to vp44 kit. I have read Mopar1973Man's article for this install and look to do just the same, however I have few questions for those already having done this mod before: Is there a need for 1/2" over 3/8" big line kit? Depending on the condition of the stock in-tank pump, an Air Dog or Fass would be in the future with its big line kit. Is there a need to have both a shut off valve and snubber? Is the distance from the big line kit to the fender too short to eliminate fuel hammer? Is it just as easy and more durable to use fuel hose over air brake line to connect to the sender unit? (Thinking back to the days of my youth using copper over plastic line for oil pressure gauge installs.) This is the big one: How did you wire this gauge to the factory wiring harness without a bunch of splices or a spider web of connections? I'd like to have the lighting dim with the dash if possible, but won't fuss if that's a bunch of aggravation for not much gain. I'd like to keep it a clean (near factory looking) install and probably won't add anything later unless I go with a Westach egt/boost combo gauge (stock ETH so really no hurry). Thanks for any ideas and help!!
  13. Irie808, are you running a big line 1/2” kit or stock fuel lines? Any issues from 24 psi?
  14. Hey, just thought I'd give an update to the blend door/HVAC overhaul. Sorry, no pics of the tear down. The evaporator had a small leak and some minor buildup. Not bad considering I had been topping up yearly until the last charge lasted 3 weeks before blowing warm. The heater core was in good shape but for a super small rust spot, never leaked coolant into the cab. That was a surprise that it didn't leak, but also that it rusted as the coolant gets changed ahead of schedule. The LMC dash top went in and fit well, the mist grey color match was spot on. I recommend getting the dash reinforcement kit as well, sure can't hurt. Purchased mine through Walking J Designs, great customer service too. The LMC instrument panel cover was also OEM looking. The blend doors were....well....nasty. They copped some pretty good amounts of construction dust and cigarette smoke for a short time. That and age took a toll. Having already purchased the Blend Door USA kit before seeing them was just as well. The kit went in great and functions as it did. I will say for anyone thinking of this kit, one of the OEM doors has a spring door attached (you'll see in the pics). The replacement door doesn't have this. After speaking with someone from Blend Door, he said it wasn't possible to reproduce this function, but wouldn't affect the function as only a small amount of air gets redirected to the defrost vents when only floor vents are selected on the switch. I can't say as i ever noticed. Big thanks to them for answering my questions last minute!! The new doors went in great and function just like new. OEM doors are still available but are more expensive (at time of purchase) than the Blend Door kit. Ironically, the OEM plastic interposer was still in great shape, not even starting to show cracking. I still used the replacement aluminum unit from the kit. Great to have A/C again and the dash not cracked up!! Big thanks to the fellas up in Floyd Va. at the Dodge dealer as well!! I would suggest checking your radiator hoses, thermostat, and antifreeze as this is a great time to service those while spreading parts around the shop!!
  15. Thanks!! Yeah any replaceable seals, gaskets and foam is a good idea. I’ve seen foam kits for the OEM hvac doors, may be an opinion but need to see what i’m working with first i reckon. The dash almost made it 14 years before any cracking, it only got bad in the last year or so but no holes, just a couple of long cracks by the windshield. Thought about protectants and put some on awhile back, but a towel lived on the dash for years. I’ve read the horror stories of the in-tank carter conversion pump, this one has been in since 2004. I drive it like a Mack so WOT isn’t often, maybe this has helped? Spoke to a gentleman i know with 2 second gens, a 12 valve and a 24 valve. Both have around 270,000 miles and mostly open road and farm duty. The 24 valve is still on the factory vp44 and block mounted lift pump (don’t know if replaced). I guess some people get lucky? Knowing my luck, once i know the psi, she’ll throw a dreaded code
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