20016speed

Welp I figured it out. I accidentally swapped the common ground plugs/junction connectors behind the dash. Added pictures and circled.

Update: I swapped the main fuse box and still have the same problems

Hello, I recently bought another truck non running of course, price was good and truck is clean and no rust so I figured why not. I’m going to try an explain everything thoroughly start to finish. The previous owner (diesel mechanic) bought it off a customer and tried to get it running. He lost interest. He had told me the only way he got the truck to run was he cut the bus wires in the injection pump. When I started investing I found the dash harness to be the wrong one, truck is fully loaded heated leather and had a basic dash harness in it. It appeared someone swapped the dash out. (Will make sense later keep reading) I found the correct dash harness for the truck part # according to mopar website and the supersedes/cross reference, I just got everything installed with a new dash and buttoned up. I reconnected the bus wires on the injection pump, truck starts and runs fine now. Here’s the problem I am having, the dome light is getting back fed from somewhere, stays barely lit, even with CTM unplugged, door switches unplugged, dash main connector unplugged, the only thing that shuts it off is the smaller dash connector, or pulling the connector off the headlight switch, here’s what’s even weirder, if I turn the dome light on from the switch it shuts off, and I am able to turn the parking lights on without the fuse blowing under the hood (parking light fuse) 15amp. If the dimmer is set or dome light off when I turn the parking lights on it blows the fuse. I have unplugged rear harness, connector on cab mount, ctm, ignition switch ect, replaced headlight switch with known good one, I have even swapped CTM from my other truck, I was very very tedious when I put the new dash harness in and plugged all my connectors in, I had the dash set up on a table ect, for some reason I think this is why the dash harness was swapped out before, previous owner thought it was that. Also the overhead console lights don’t come on automatically unless I click them on at the lense. If anyone has suggestions I would greatly appreciate it, I also made sure the dash harness color coded wires were all the same. And connectors were fully seated Thank you

Yes, I’ve driven the truck on the road and feels like a stock 24V, I will check for A/C voltage when I get home from work

Good morning everyone! Here’s the story, might be a little long but I want to give every detail so it makes it easier, bought an 01 24valve auto off a used car lot not running dirt cheap. Guy didn’t seem to understand these trucks. Only mods are a fass DDRP, nothing else truck has 140k, and a new reman trans, very carefully inspected truck and no prior meatball repairs or hacked wiring. upon first arriving at the lot here’s what I did. - trucks battery terminals were beat/ corroded, managed to get them tight and partially clean -found fuel relay missing out of fuse box under hood, swapped with horn relay and truck fired, ram very poorly but was enough to get on the trailer. Arrived home - first things first, replaced all battery terminals with HD bolt on style, replaced all terminals ends soldered and crimped - removed what looked to be a capacitor tied between the orange wire black strip by PCM, to ground -truck would start, but cranked, threw communication code for vp (1689), hot wired VP it ran, (originally wired it backwards by accident) found all grounds under D side battery rotted off, and all grounds in poor shape - Redid all grounds, solder and crimped, cleaned all surfaces very well, I’m very detail conscious -truck fires up, as it’s running it is intermittently losing power to vp and coming back, truck would sputtter but would catch itself never stalling, as I’m by the fuse box the fuel system relay had a poor connection as I would touch it and the truck would shut down, I just barely bent the taps out on the relay, pushed it back in and now has a solid connection, all sputtering issues are gone, vp is no longer loosing power, Things I noticed, -ecm leaves the lift pump on all the time, swapped in a spare I had and solved that problem, but I did however swap the ecm back and put the lift pump on a key on power source as I’m still diagnosing this truck and don’t wanna fry a good spare ecm. So here’s the issue left the CEL is on, I’ve tried clearing the codes but they come back immediately after the truck starts , P0252, P0253, truck seems to run great, I’m wondering if the issue is because the ecm is keeping power on at the lift pump, I’ll swap the good ecm and test again, just wanted to get some insights, thank you guys and enjoy the holidays