hex0rz

Aww Schucks... just send me some reputation points, and we can call it even!

Hhehe, yep, I really went wrong getting a 24v vp44. If I had known about it earlier, I would definitely have gone for a 12v.If I ever get enough money to throw around and can p-pump my 24v, I will do it just so I can make it burn just about anything!SCREW the EPA! ...wait, did I say that out loud?

I have gauges. Boost, pyro, fuel. I spent the money on my BHAF, so when I can I will be getting some more gauges. One of them will be also a tranny temp gauge.The guy who rebuilt my transmission did not cover specifically what he put in. He asked how much I planned on towing/hauling and I said around 12k lbs. I don't wanna go over that weight as I can easily exceed manufacturers ratings for the truck.He put in a triple-disk torque converter. I wanted the 5-disk he had, but he said that a triple would be fine for how much I want to haul. He put in a tow/haul valve body to help with the shifting and make the engine work more than the trans.Nothing is billet. He did have to replace some hard parts because of the treatment received before I got the truck. I'm not sure about all what they were, but I know he had to replace the OD unit.

Anyone have any experience with them? Who would be the best?

MMMmmm... ****** chickens! No racial pun intended!I have not had a chance to administer this test yet... Although, even though I suffer a decrease in pressure, even with it drained down, I still never have it go below 15psi.

You are correct! Glycerin is not the a huge problem to some of the others mentioned. Water is a big killer in the process.I have seen that centrifuging is one of the best ways to approach filtration. Although, other filter methods when done right can achieve filtration of less than one micron. Thats alot cleaner than what our diesel filters filter out!It seems to me that a quality batch of homebrew diesel along the lines of 50 gallons or so takes about a week to refine. With the washing and drying taking the longest. There are plenty of tests that can be administered to check fuel quality and also any left over chemicals from the process or unprocessed.My concern has been over the idea of Coking, polymerization, and creation of peroxides. Other things I have been considering is salt content and pH.

I dunno what the longterm effects would be using it in an engine. But I have seen some videos of people using the fuel for engines. I dunno whats necessarily involved in making it clean enough to use it for an engine, but I would probably try and analyze the stability of it and all the things associated that a quality fuel needs to be in order to be acceptable to be burnt in an engine such as our good ol' cummins.

Haha, and they lose all the power needed to get into those tight areas. I could see it being beneficial if it was just on a city street where its all paved and rarely hills.Rural departments, ha! You need the power to carry all that water, gear, men up those roads!I really despise the EPA...

So if its flat, its ok for OD. But I start running into any grades that lugg the truck down, kick the OD off? Just trying to understand how much hill is too much for the OD.

Sorry! I just grabbed the link and did not bother to read!I find it a very secure way to make fire when needed. Not needing anything but some dry fuel and you got it! A very surefire thing to have for those of us who go in the remote areas for whatever.I would like to make mine from SS or aluminum and about 2" in diameter. About 12" long or so as well. Have not done the math on it yet, but it would be the right size or so. With the diameter in account, I was thinking of using a hatchet to attain the required force the rapid compression needed. We shall see!

Hey guys, I got a rebuilt tranny job not too long ago. The guy put a tow/haul valve body in for me. It shifts later than stock to get the engine to rev higher. He said something about the OD button, but I can't remember. Would it still be ok to have my OD or should I still turn it off when tow/hauling?

the fire piston? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_piston I'm thinking about this whole thing and wondering how I can make a larger version and using a hatchet instead of your hand to ignite larger fuels. It fascinates me. How much compression do I need? How fast does it need to be? How hot does the temps get? There is a science behind this that I'm dying to know!

So here is our departments new fire engine apparatus: Purdy right? Just had to show her off to you guys! I do not know the specs on it yet, but I can say it has an International diesel in it. It is definitely alot diff. in how it runs compared to the good ol' cummins sound. She drives like a dream, I would say. BUT there is an acute difference with this engine and the others. New vehicles have to meet that pesky ol' EPA emissions standard now that require 83% less NOx emissions. Manufacturers are resorting to the good ol' Urea or you might as well call it ____, to lower those emissions to meet that EPA standard. FRANKLY, I find that quit annoying to have to refill a tank on top of the diesel fuel just to get it down the road. Not to mention how easily you can screw things up if you're not careful. ON TOP of that, I find it intrusive that if you do not keep up on the DEF, you can be left stranded somewhere and your vehicle will not run, or will run on a limited basis. Wow, being controlled by the good ol' EPA, once again! So, our departments mechanic is a friggin' genius as I would say. He goes down to take a look at how this thing is coming and putting in his input on the design. Instead of going with that darned DEF fluid, he decides to use a reburner! I can't find information on it right now, but it is a HELL of alot better than using DEF! Especially when you have to replace the cat converter. Its 2k a pop for one! Mind you, the simplicity and reliability of the reburner is much better than DEF, it still has to be taken care of. If you drive it for it for an extended period of time or idle long, it needs a cool down period. Just like our turbochargers do when we got her spooled up hot. Anyways, just thought I would share that, and have also wondered myself why other auto makers have not gone with this instead of the damned DEF.

I think he asks that question because alot of people have not gained an awareness of how strict they need to be in refining theirs to overcome these problems that arise from low quality refinement.There are numerous things to take into account when it comes to using biodiesel. Little is needed to run it in a diesel engine and our trucks specifically. Some may think that refining it is much more work than it is worth, but that is to each their own.At the moment, I have not had a chance to brainstorm a setup. I have been more focused on the cause and effect of using it and how to overcome the problems using it in our VP44 IP's.I believe I have a solution to it, but the other question that comes to mind from it is whether or not the parts are made or are going to be relatively inexpensive to make. The method is simple in how it works, however.IF I was going to go with a home made design, I would have to say that the Appleseed holds alot of merit with me... Some disagree, but eh...

From all the responses on this thread, this is all I comment about! It gets me every time too! On the other hand, does it seem like I'am now no longer a dry sponge and have become saturated to the point of releasing some of my excess knowledge? For $900 to get this setup, I would say there is a potential for BIG return! If you can't use it for auto fuel, you sure could use it for other stuff! Say heat?

Another mans junk is another mans treasure! http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/7040-how-turn-plastic-waste-into-diesel-fuel-cheaply.html http://www.kxly.com/news/30192050/detail.html Muahahaa!

mmmmm... I see what your saying! Thanks for the little schooling! :smart:Diesel is still relatively new to me, so I must try and wrap my head around the inner workings, as I have been taught in the gasser world. Applying the volatile principles to compression engines.

I would say I really goofed when I bought my truck. It definitely helped me get my hands dirty in the diesel world, but now that I know what the heck I'm doing (somewhat), I regret buying my truck! Its great truck, but with what I had planned, its not the right one...I can still do what I want with it as I had planned for the other intended type, but it just will never fit my bill. Unless I wanna make it a money pit and still have it never reach my potential, I need to re-figure my priorities before I get into trouble with the wifey!In my neck of the woods, the gas stations do not offer a biodiesel blended fuel. I doubt I will see anything like that for a while too. Actually, not to argue with you, but I would say that homebrewers either are just as good if not better at making quality biodiesel than the big boys. I have read horror stories on both sides. Thats why I intend to do it myself! After seeing what the possible carnage can be, I have definitely promised myself to never cut corners. As that can lead to some expensive repairs!

AHA! Now I know! I may be able to agree with the 1st thread, but not so much with the 2nd. Only because that persons practice in refining is in question. ATSM standards is what should be followed for fuel quality, and I sense this did not meet that standard. I also realize that not every diesel can run biodiesel. Not that their engine can handle it, but because of the fuel delivery method. I'm not familiar with those CR systems. Only got acquainted with the p7100 and intimate with the VP44. I'm confident in being able to run bio through the VP44 with the tricks I have up my sleeve! That p7100 seems like it can handle anything you throw at it... As for emissions, performance, I'm not worried much. I may lose mpg's and energy output, but what I get back is more dough in the pocket in the long run. I'm not interested in getting biodiesel from people who grow the canola in the fields, but from restaurants that have already used it for cooking. Just keeping a recycling type of mindset. The fastest diesel on the drag strip uses biodiesel. http://www.cumminsracing.com/

Not sure what you mean with that link you provided...

Hmm... good point. So some of the energy from the active cylinders is leeched away to help drive the inactive cylinders to overcome the compression stroke, right?This in turn would cause poor performance and higher temps, right? Just trying to get an overall idea of how it would work. Just thinking along the lines of the 3cyl high idle mode.I suppose tweaking the IAT sensor would be a better way to make better MPG's...

Would I still have to pay though?

I bought 2 brand new batteries from NAPA at about the same time I put the airdog in.

I tell ya, the thinking stuff pours in every now and then. So here is my latest thought! We all are aware of the high idle mod and moparmans IAT sensor mod that helps MPG's. BUT, what about a way to modify the whatever (ECM, PCM, etc.) to allow the engine to only inject fuel in the cylinders on demand?Some have the 3cylinder high idle, and that helps in warmups. But what if there is a way to allow the engine to only run on 3 cylinders or less or any amount desired to cut down on fuel and raise MPG's? Surely someone around here is smart enough to know whether or not it can be done?Some of the newer vehicles do the same thing. They run on 3-4 until a certain speed or throttle and then kick in to 6-8 for the full power when on demand. We really need an emoticon to express chin scratching...

Hopefully this is in the right section? Move if need be... Was looking for anyone in my area that would be willing to help me activate my high idle and change the tire size thing as well.Would be willing to pay for the trouble. Or if anyone trusts me enough, borrow theirs to do it?...I know, probably a long shot...