Zekeworst

Well, I’d love to self discover if I had the right tools to do so. ?

Thank you all for the info. Once I get the new VP and get it to the mechanic, I’ll be sure to tell him to look over everything and see what all is wrong with it.

I’ve decided to replace the VP44. She needs it badly. One other side tangent. I now have what seems to be low compression. The truck idles really rough (enough to shake the truck back and forth). There’s white smoke coming out from behind the ECM (on the side of the block) where the fuel filter is (I haven’t been able to isolate the leak yet). I’m wondering what kind of seal(s) could be down in that area and how easily they can be replaced.

If you’d like to call it that. Lol I slept until about four in the afternoon which is why I was up so early.

Yes, you’re correct. It was late when I posted that and I was tired. I was falling asleep when I was typing it. It only runs for a short time when the key is on and after bumping it, it runs for awhile.

So... Update on my truck. I haven’t been able to get anywhere in terms of checking fuel pressure. I recently moved (my old roommate upped the rent on me) and haven’t had the finances to do anything more with it. BUT... I was able to check all of the grounds (finally) and just recently (a couple days ago)I noticed that the lift pump FINALLY decided it wanted to start working again. By happenstance, when I turn the key to the run position, I heard it prime for about 30-45 seconds. If I bump the engine, it primes again for roughly that same amount of time. The stutter is still there. Yesterday when I drove it, it didn’t stutter at all. There was consistent power from both a dead and rolling stop.

Switch only has constant power (white wire) and the other connection on the four prong connector for the brake lights does not trip my test light. Turn signal and constant power work but the other wire doesn’t trip the test light. I’m at a loss. At this point it’s this kind of little sh!t that’s making me want to get rid of it. What bothers me the most is the fact that yesterday they were working just fine (and they have worked for the past 7 months since I got it) and now they just don’t work.

Just checked the fuse. It’s good. Now my brake lights won’t work. I’ve checked the fuse on it, it’s good, and I’ve got power going all the way back to the socket. Now to test the switch...

Also, I was just curious if the pump would prime so I tried bumping it to see if I could hear it prime and It didn’t.

Also: I apologize for all of you who may think I’m asking “stupid” questions. I’ve never owned a diesel before and I’m just trying to make sure I can (hopefully) pass this truck on to my future child(ren). Yup. It’s stock. I see a mopar sticker on it. So... From what I’m gathering, I can either: A. Replace the lift and in tank pump and hope it fixes the problem B. Replace the VP pump (which will most likely fix the problem C. Replace all of those components and KNOW it will fix the problem. Damn owning a diesel is an expensive hobby... ? I also just noticed that there’s a slight crimp on the inlet side of that lift pump. That could be why it’s doing all of this. I’ll see if I can uncrimp it.

I do not have a fuel pressure gauge. So the pump isn’t dead yet? I feel like if I were to replace the lifter pump that it would save the VP pump long enough to squeeze a little bit more life out of her. Where are all the ground terminals? Easy to get to I hope... I know where a few are but finding and going through the rest of them may take awhile.

Here’s what my pump looks like. It’s got torque paint on it so I’m assuming it’s stock. There’s also the numbers 1022204 inscribed on the plate cover.

After looking online and being floored but the amount of money it costs to replace the pump, I came across the DDRP Relocation pump (says it’s designed to go closer to the fuel tank rather than in the engine bay and acts more as a pusher pump) for much cheaper than the OEM part. Could that be a viable (and cheaper) solution to my problem?

Lovely... So I need a new VP pump then? I was also reading that if I replace that that I also have to replace my lift pump as well...?

Is there a way to “manually” probe wires to check the true voltage going to those systems (instead of what the computer is telling me? If so, which wire(s) do I probe? Here’s the codes I discovered.