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fuel canister
Thanks for all the input everyone , like I said drop the tank and pulled the fuel module I hooked a air hose to the suction side of the module and plugged the end of the pick up line and submerged into a 5 gall on of water and pushed about 5lb of air through the line and found 2 air leaks one outside the module at the aluminum suction fitting supplied by airdog where one piece screws into the other and 1 leak at the plastic corrugated tube where the hose clamp connects the the aluminum fitting I guess the hose clamp cut the tube ,anyway I put all back together primed the system and it fired up now I will let it set over night to see if it looses its prime ,it used to start up with 1 crank of the starter but when it got to half tank it got worse we will see I will chime back latter in the week see how far I can go
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fuel canister
I just brought home a alluminum tube the same diameter 1/2 ID it fit snugly into the corrugated flex tube that AD supplied, I used new fuel injection type hose clamps that work great I ditched the nylon tube I am satisfied that I have a very good seal now . The engine return line has a short rubber hose with a quick connect I also changed the hose clamp on that . Dose the return line that come from the AD and the engine just dump back into the tank? Reason I ask the 2 internal flex lines are cut off the TEE and the TEE was completely removed and the 2 lines just hang there. My next Item is to remove the quick connect to the AD on the suction side and on the return I just don't trust them ,I am running out of things to change . Can hooking up the fuel canister cause these hard starts now?:banghead:
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fuel canister
OK ,I have 1 suction line ,coming from the AD, 1 return line coming from the AD there is a smaller line hooked up that is connected to the the other connection next to the AD return line ,is that line needed I have to follow it I think it goes to the back of motor will have to follow it tomorrow after work, instead of the nylon tube connected to the corrugated tube I might switch the nylon for a metal tube - - - Updated - - - I wonder if when I connected the fuel canister back up if that has something to do with the hard starting also ? I purchased the fittings for the top of the canister and spliced in between the AD and injection pump ,I shouldn't get any ill affects from doing that should I?
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fuel canister
OK, I dropped the tank again ,I was at work getting ready to leave the fuel tank was just under 1/2 and it would not start , after 20 minutes It started when I got home I pulled the module out and there are 2 other plastic hoses that were cut off the TEE and the TEE was removed ,these lines are about 7" inches long I think they are the return lines .I want to replace the 2 piece pickup tube with a diesel fuel rated hose (1 piece ) .Does anyone have any suggestions? maybe I can splice the old one together with a brass barbed fitting? I am so fed up with this fuel system .On the top of the module I pulled 3 lines off ,1 supply what are the other 2:banghead:
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fuel canister
yes,Drip you know it ,and yes I have to laugh also for ignorance does not pay ,but lessons are learned it just gets old ,I am going to look at that support brace .
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fuel canister
I agree with that I am contemplating on cutting a access door I am tired of dropping the tank on my back crap falling into my face and eyes ,thanks I will do that ,I will add a flange and use some sort of gasket tape and screw it into place .
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fuel canister
Dripley,I used the recomended kit from AD,I explained to AD that i had a intank fuel pump and the gave me the part number to use I believe I have the right kit I talked to a Mechanic he said to pull the module out and check the clamps and pick up tube for cracks or holes ,his logic is when the tank is full everything is submerged into diesel fuel, as you burn fuel the tank empties and exposes connection points or cracks / holes ,when these holes /cracks are exposed you are sucking air along with fuel which will give you a longer crank he also said where I use a hose clamp I should use some non harding locktite to seal the connection good. SO that sounds like thats what is happening ,now I must drop my tank again and remove the module for the 3rd time to see if that is it ,I checked out all other avenues but that one ,I THINK
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fuel canister
I just purchased the fittings for using the fuel canister ,can't wait to get these before winter . after I installed the air dog I have been noticing when I fill my truck up it fires up real fast and the fuel pressure gauge reads around 17 to 18 psi almost instant as the fuel level drops the truck takes a 1/2 second longer or so to crank and the fuel pressure gauge slowly rises to 16 to 18 psi and the less fuel in the tank the longer it takes to crank the slower the fuel pressure rises, and around 3/8 of a tank it gets even worse I can't drive it unless it has at least 3/8 to 1/2 tank of fuel . whats going on ?
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fuel canister
I just installed a airdog ll about 3 months ago along with a new VP44 I bypassed the original fuel filter canister ,Now I would like to utilize the canister with the water in fuel sensor and the fuel heater mostly because winter is coming upon us soon here in Michigan ,Right now I have a 1/2 line to the VP44 I would like to install a reducer from 1/2 inch to 3/8 and install right to the top of canister and come out of the outlet with 3/8 down to the VP44 is this possible and if so where can I get these fittings ?
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Just installed new VP$$
For the last 3 days now I have been parking my truck with the nose pointing down in the driveway and at work I park in a parking lot that has a slight slope so when I park the nose is pointing down also ,I have noticed that it starts right up without any extended cranking at all is this still a air leak or is it something else?
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Just installed new VP$$
I will try that, parking the truck with the front down hill , OK if it starts to crank over consistently ,is this still a air leak between the VP and air dog ll or is it inside the VP which is new? or where?
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Just installed new VP$$
thanks for the replays I will have to check the return line and connections of the original fittings everything else is new ,I know now after installing the AIR DOG ll I cannot run it passed 1/4 tank or I will loose fuel pressure with the fuel sloshing around.I been working long hour and weekends I will have to look at it when the crazy- ness stops ,I will try parking it with the nose pointing down and see if that helps any --- Update to the previous post... Have another question after the airdog ll was installed I discontinued the original fuel filter and housing ,does anyone know what the factory fuel filter micron rating is and the factory airdog ll , I am wondering if I went back to the factory filter micron rated into my airdog ll , If it was 10 micron filter, it increase fuel flow and pressure then the 2 micron rated filter would. if I am running a 2 micron filter it would clog faster then the 10 micron filter maybe this is why I am having harder starts ,I am just thinking out loud does this make any sense just asking , since I just install approx 2months ago the original fuel pump had a screen on it before it was filtered now it don't so the new pickup tube sucks up all debri in the tank and it goes right to the air dog ll filter ,to me it would clog faster ? any thoughts
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Just installed new VP$$
I have not seen any fuel leaks but I will look closer ,I have a AIR DOG ll DF 100 ,I have the longer cranks after it sets over night and when it sets all day at work ,I was looking at my fuel gauge when I start it and noticed that it take about anywheres around 5 to 10 seconds to reach 15 to 17 psi it lingers down around 5 to 8 then comes up to 15 to 17 . these longer cranks started last week or so but not much to complian, but yesterday after work is when It took longer then the 1/2 second to 1 second crank or so I know there is something wronge when I installewd the new VP it fired up like I had a new truck up untill now.
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Just installed new VP$$
Hey Gentlemen, I am back I just installed a new VP and everything was back to normal for a couple of weeks ,I started to notice the extened cranks, dont get me wronge this new vp flips over 10 times better than the old one but not like it did when first installed ,it takes about 1 complete or 2 complete starter turnovers or around 1 full second to fire up ,when it used to flip over right away ,any thoughts or ideas ,would it be because the fuel is not heated anymore ?
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Bosch certified rebuilders vp44
I bought my VP from DIESEL INJECTOR REBUILD CENTER ,in Bay CITY MICHIGAN ,THEY HAVE A 815 TEST BENCH and claim they were the first to have one in the USA
jasvan10
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