dripley

I must have a bad magnetic field around me wreaking havoc on the electrical system. I am getting a little better with it as I dig into it, but still pretty much electrically cornfused.

I have to agree @Mopar1973Man. My oe last just ove 200k. I had 200k on the replacements when i changed. Bought one from NAPA and one from somewhere else never looked to even see where they came from, I had to have them. The ones I put on around 410k cmae from a member here 6 or so years ago. Paid him $150 for the pair. They were not in boxes nor did they have any writing on the bearings. Hope they last 200k. When i grew up in the 50's and 60's Made in Japan was the sign of cheap stuff. Look at them now. Sure some crappy stuff still comes out of China, but the American co's that use them wont stay in buisness long with cheap crap failing all over the place.

I got another unexpected bonus out of changing out the pump. My engine surging stopped. Has not done it once since changing it out. Been dealing with this for quite a while and got it to stop about a year ago while messing with the map sensor. After resealing my hydro boost the MAP sensor went wacky again and I found a bad splice in the 5v sensor signal wire. Fixed it and the MAP sensor works fine but the surging came back. Now a new lift and no surging.

I just bought a carrier bearing from RA for drive shaft, SKF. On the box made in china. There descriotion states thay make oe stuff for many manufacturers. The Spicer listed below it say they manufacture theirs all over the world. I dont know how you can avoid ending up with things made in china short of going somewhere and seeing the product before you buy it. I also put front hubs on mine about 50k ago and have no idea who or where they were made.

No drop from idle, thats pretty good.

Must be a Cali thing. I have never set a code disconnecting my batteries nor been able to clear one by doing that. How about your fuel pressure at WOT?

My build date was mid 2001 IIRC. I bought it in October of 2001.

The fuel pressure was just a hunch. What is your fuel pressure at WOT? As far as disconnecting the batteries, that should have no affect on anything. Taking them loose does nothing to the computer, nothing. I have never heard of monitor mode. I have disconnected mine many many times and have not noticed anything any different from prior to taking them loose. Is it setting some kind code after you disconnect them. I have heard over the years of folks doing this to reset the computer but to my knowledge it does nothing. So what are you or the smog people seeing that is the problem?

Mine exits out the side with a tin back on it.

Is it cutting out while the engine is under load? Medium to heavy throttle?

Thats good turn around time on the head also.

Welcome. I feel so much younger now at 65. Not so my truck compared yours, 453k on mine. I am pround of miles but 65k would be nice again. I hit that in 04. I like to think i got it to 225 and this place helped me the rest of the way. There is a ground you can do that would help after you check the above article.

Yeah it is a bit cluttered down there. My filter canister only has 2 bolts and can easily be moved if it is in the way. I have never unplugged mine, never had reason to.

The 02 wiring diagram shows 3 but my spare harness has 1 wire in a 2 prong connector with one of them plugged up. Have not checked the one on the truck.

I am living and learning. I never looked at the FRRP's, I wanted something better. The ECM can fry due to the 12v power for the pump coming thru the ECM. The full AD and FASS systems come with a wiring harness that uses the oe pigtail for a relay trigger and the 12v would come from battery or elswhere taking the load off of the ECM. It is a very good long term set up. My thoughts go two ways since you are wanting to sell the truck. One is get the fuel system in good working order how ever far you want to take it. Then represent it as such to prospective buyers, a litle better than than the oe system. I dont mean just cobble something together thats going fall apart a month. A buyer in the know already knows what you have and one that doesnt let him know if he wants to soup it up or drive for a long time he should put a better fuel system on it. Two, go all out on the fuel system and represent it that way and ask a little more for it. I could sleep well either way.