dripley

I have to agree with @Mopar1973Man on that. The ground for cicuit board is in the wiring harness and ties to the passanger battery. I can only assume that strap to the firewall is just for the case for a static charge maybe?? Not sure.

Well welcome to the forum. I cannot help with problem due to my electrical dumbness. But I have had many moments that a stay in a Holiday Inn express has helped my education. My only overdrive hunting issues involve me looking for 7th in the 6 speed.

Over heating with the fan running would worry me. Maybe something is clogged and not allowing either good water or air flow? I know the 2nd gens are prone to the radiator clogging from the crank case breather. But dont know enough about the 4th gens to offer any advice.

Next time I am down by the parts guy I found out of Charlotte I will see if he has a burl bezels and see what wants for one.

I would disagree with one thing. I have no shift linkage except for the stick sticking out of the floor. One less thing to do. All good to know though. Thanks

It is good project especially if you plan to keep the truck for while. And the benefit to your eyes is priceless. Felt like I had a new truck again. Having the AC back was almost secondary. And just to add the method @Gregturley describes is good if you have some help and would definitely make the dash pad install easier. There are 2 screws on the drivers side that are very tough to get to with the dash still in the truck, but not impossible. i have never pulled the steering column to know what time that adds to the job.

I have something that was easier if you have one. A manual tranny. Works like a charm.

I did not remove mine completely the driverside was still hanging on the mounting bolt, so the screws on that side are fun to get to. It was the easiest for me since I was alone for the tear down.

I spent 2 or 3 days on mine. I had time to do it and just did not get in any hurry. Some beer breaks were taken also. My son helped me reinstall the dash. And beings some of the screws for the dash have to be installed from the back having him was benefical. I also rebuilt the hvac box while itmwas out.

Mine have white lights in them. The gauge is the same except with a black face. But I do have little green covers to put on the bulbs to turn them green. They came from ISSPRO.

He has an 01 so it should be. I know it changed in 02 to the switch like I have, one wire to it and not 3. I dont know whether that means some late model 01's might have seen the change or some early model 02's have the 3 wire sensor. Bought my 02 in October of 01 and it has the one wire switch. I seem to remeber a few discussions on here a while back involving a bad oil pressure sensor causing other issues. Thats about all I remember though.

No, 7's at the craps table. So l learned. Thats the first alternator l ever owned for 10 years. All was working fine until l noticed it. Part of the "lf it aint broke dont fix it syndrome".

I have an AZ alternator l put on 5 years ago, 100k + miles ago. Before the WT's ground mod l was at .035 ac volts and after .010. I cant disagree on the crap shoot part but it would appear l got one built on a Wednesday from parts the were manufactured on a Wednesday. On top of that it was free due to a warranty replacement from the one i bought in Oklahoma 5 years prior. On the alternator l came out rolling 7's for about 24 hours straight. Still have oe Denso. I did not stop working but failed externally. Never lost one like that before.

I think the core charge is the least of will440's problem. The shipping and taxes in Britain would eat his lunch.