dripley

I did just over a year on the in tank pump from Dodge. Had couple issues and took it to shop and the only thing they found was low fuel pressure. 5 at at idle and 0 at WOT. They are worse than the block mounted pump in my experience. That pump only cost me $1k. Made the AD look like a bargain at the time.

I will right something up my brain is thinkinng and send it to you. Bit it will be tomorrow.

Do you think that some sort of introduction statement should be up for prospective new members to explain why we are becoming a subscription based forum. So many folks are just used to getting free info almost any where you go.

When I replaced my HG I just reused the stock bolts. It was a 3 step process too. I forget the torque numbers and the first two steps were pretty easy. The last step was turn the bolts 90* more. That was a chore as you mention above.

I would like to know what happened to the first one. 4th had started whining some and next thing I knew it got stuck in 4th one day. Had to pull off the road and hulk it out of gear, didn't know you could jerk on a shifter as hard as I did to get it out. Never went back in after that. Never saw anything out of the ordinary when I drained the fluid. Figured a bearing must of let but did not grenade. I did run that tranny low on fluid once, how long I was never sure. Best I recall It was around 150k to 160k and it let go about around 240k. Bought one from a junkyard with 52k on it and that is th

I run quart of the penzoil synchromesh and have for a very long time. 300k+ on this one but it would be nicr to have someone go thru it. The only time temps got up was towing in 6th. As far as overfilling the 5600 it would only be dodge forums since dodge was the only one use them as far as I know.

I will consume my crow graciously.

You absolutely could be right on that. Now if we could just get @Me78569off his porch he could enlighten us. I have not had enough crow to eat today.

You can separate the body no problem. IIRC the shaft passes thru a whole in one half. There is a piece of stamped metal that connects the plunger inside the hydro boost to the pedal shaft. The connector is the problem. It is stamped on which makes it difficult to remove and reinstall. That is why I did not replace that seal.

The Ducky injectors could be the problem. I hear the spray patterns are not good on the 2nd gen 24v's. @Me78569I believe knows more about that than I do.

Nope, only 28 to 30 psi on the oe hx35. There was another short time member here who found the China ones from Fridays Parts. 15 bucks so I bought 3 of them. Figured what the hell maybe 3 $15 ones might last as long might last as long one $100 or $200 one. So far so good. Funny thing is while dealing with this I find that I last installed my MAP in the IAT hole and the IAT in the MAP hole. It worked but seems to work better in the proper holes now.

That is a $15 MAP sensor. 6 weeks or more and it is working fine. I do carry a SMP spare just in case. The funny thing about those is the used to be 100 bucks a year ago and when I had to warranty the last one the price had gone up to 200 bucks. I believe they had some failures other than mine.

I can only think the oil just drools down and stays off the clutch itself. I am having a harder time with the clutch disengaging without the clutch mashed into the floor of late. Like the the pilot bearing is failing. Just wont know until I pull it all, just dealing with it for now. Lucky I guess for now. I have thought about them. If they could be bolted in with no mods that would be plus. Also thought about a 4500 but I dont think my drive shaft will work with one. I dont tow any these days and always thought one might be a better DD. Though I have always liked my 6 speed. Are G56's a

If man comes up with a good idea for a kill switch and pumps the idea out on the open internet, so much for a good idea.

Did you clear the code after it set and you replaced the sensor?