dripley

Welcome sir.

That does suck. How far out of warranty was it?

Now that does concern me a bit more. My current clutch is a SB con ofe. The one that failed prematurely was a Valair. Think I will just keep driving like always and not think about until any odd noises appear. One thing I hate about warranty is even if they do replace it. You still have to install it. I would gladly buy the bearing if they replace it. Well I can dream anyway.

That is correct. I usually bump mine out of gear and sit there with my foot off of the pedal. I usually wait until the light changes before putting it into gear again. Occasionally I will leave it in gear if I see I will be moving fairly quickly. I do this as more for my left leg than thinking about the bearing.

For the most part thats how I have driven mine. Definitely dont like to sit there holding the pedal down. I was 48 when l bought the truck in 01. Iam 67 now with heavier clutch and damn sure do it as little possible at 67. If the oe last 240k and the second one lasted only 70k, yours only 30k, l'd say the quality bearing is greatly diminished. I have about 100k on the latest clutch and bearing and it better last.

Well I guess since us is a plural we came to a 100% consensus rather painlessly. Just thinking out loud it seems to me you pull the slave and see if it still makes noise. I never tried it even though I had the slave out to shorten the rod.

I dont know how much of a consensus we have since its just you me right now, but that is my opinion. I was also pretty pissed to have pull my 6 speed just to install that bearing. Especially since the factory stuff was still working after 240k when I had it swapped for the new one.

It is my understanding the clutch fork is in constant contact with the throw out bearing and pressure plate. I even shortened my slave cylinder rod in hopes of taking some pressure off of it with no success. Took a quarter inch off and still had the screaching. I did make a few more days and a trip home to change it out. Figure it was just a cheap bearing. I believe the older non hydraulic clutches do not remain in constant contact. I know many years back I have lost a couple throw out bearings and they only made noise with pressure on the pedal, quiet while engaged. I am by far not the clutch genius here but that is my understanding.

Sounds like the throw out bearing. My last clutch lost the bearing 70k after install. Screached and squealed clutch engaged or not. I changed it out and the clutch was fine. A real pain over a fairly inexpensive part.

He means the fuel lines. They tighten against the cross over tubes and compresion seals everything tight.

Thats to good a grease for a Ford.

Have you tried an TPS reset? By that I mean disconnect the battaries for 30 minutes or so. Reconnect them. Turn the to the on position. Press the pedal slowly to the floor the release it slowly. Then turn the key to off position. Now start it and see what happens. That is a reset you are supposed to do any time you hve had the battaries disconnected. If that does not help the only thing I can tell you is buy a Timbo apps. Mike sells them here. And do be fooled by all the cheap ones on the internet. You dont need a DVM with the Timbo. Just to add to this a little since you have lock and un lock issues you probably have to much AC voltage from alternator bleading into the system. That same AC voltage will make these truck do strange things. So if the reset does not help you might put the old in to see what it does. If you get same results the problem is most likely some where else.

I have the AD165 in mine. It runs off of a relay triggerred by oe pump connection. That gets power off of the ECM also. I did'nt know about the mechanical pumps way back when. A lot of folks here run them with very good succes. If mine were to fail again I would probably go with one.

My second set were remans from DAP. Maybe thats why thet do it. They eere popped at 310 per DAP. I swapped out the 50's, DAP, because they were smokey with the Comp. Not doubting what you are saying at all just clarifying what I have. I did forget to add the ECM controls the idle.

I wish I could answer that. While these trucks were created equal on the assembly line some sure do respond differently to upgrades than others. I just have RV275'S on mine and they lope sometimes, almost evrytime I turn the AC on it happens. It does stop after several seconds. Seems several get it with the addition of a Quad tuner and bigger injectors. Mine never did until after I added the Comp and a second set of RV275'S to mine.