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    Kansas City, MO

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  1. If it was Montgomery Wards of the 40's and 50's, I think I'd love to spend a few hours there! Looking at old catalogs they had some really cool stuff way back in the day. I have an old Powr-Kraft table top drill press I used to use until I broke a cast sheave. It's splined, so finding a replacement has thus far proven impossible, even McMaster Carr, etc. haven't been of any use. I agree that NAPA is generally much better, but there are exceptions depending on the store owner's hiring decisions. The O'Reilly's where I used to live had a guy in an office, not behind the counter, and he was the guy you needed to talk to if it was mildly complicated. For instance, a Continental engine, and not a Lincoln Continental... Pretty sad state of affairs these days at the parts houses.
  2. I'll bet a dollar that Mopar1973Man recommends NAPA
  3. You guys crack me up! I'm still in the <235 HP range with my HY35 and stock (but fresh) injectors. Hence my reading older posts about turbos
  4. Yes, that's a perfect example! The lights are amazing.
  5. Yes, that's the one. My truck must have had aftermarket seat covers most of its life, because the fabric isn't faded. It does have a big rip right in the middle, but I run some high-dollar (Covercraft?), heavy duty seat covers, too, so the tear hasn't grown. Otherwise I would have purchased the new fabric, also. Taking the old fabric off was the hard part because of the big clips that snap onto the steel part of the seat. A couple of them were very stubborn. I reused my existing hog rings with the help of two pairs of pliers, they run left to right holding down the center of the seat fabric. I have an 01 so didn't remove the entire seat, have no idea why they say to do that in the instructions; supposedly 94-97 guys have to do so. Cost for just the foam is rather high at $125, but having experienced the change I'd very grudgingly pay twice that. Any higher and I'd just cobble something together under the original foam!
  6. I knew the ECM would modulate the lift pump, but I just looked up the standard operation in the FSM and learned it only does that during cranking! I incorrectly assumed it had an algorithm to know how much to pulse. Before I assume that part of the ECM is dead, is there anything else it could be, like a pressure relief valve that has a "hitch" in it? If not, I'll be doing the IBMobile modification - I currently don't have an operational backup vehicle (1986 military Blazer has sat a long time).
  7. Just took about 30 minutes and installed my new driver's seat cushion from Geno's and I wish I had spent the money 50k miles ago. It is SUCH a drastic improvement. No more smashing my tailbone on the rear crossbar with every bump!
  8. If the ECM isn't triggering the pump to operate, I could have 3" pipe and still not have 18 PSI.
  9. I have 3/8 from tank to stock filter, then 1/2 from filter to IP, all banjos removed. Since the pump puts out great and consistent pressure when jumpered, I believe the ECM is "pulse width modulating" the pump for some reason. For my 400 mile drive home I plan to jumper it just to see what happens. Fuel got to 151 today and it was only 88 degrees out. IAT was 125. Flat Iowa terrain.
  10. I didn't say cooler, I was referring the humidity we have here when I said sauna. It seems you agree our trucks are very different. @dripley The IBMobile mod to which I refer is where the lift pump relay is triggered by a wire (orange and black?) from the PDC that will cut power in the event of a crash, instead of being controlled by the ECM. My fuel pressure rises and falls around 13 to 18 as I drive, but if I shove a jumper in the wiring to power the pump it's consistently up around 18-19.
  11. I get that, but our trucks are about as different as they are similar, so I don't know how much stock to put in comparing temps. The big differences are that I've got dinky injectors at stock pop pressure, a dinky turbo, a slushbox, and operate in a sea-level sauna compared to Idaho. My truck has also been used and abused before I got it (36k pound plates?!), whereas I recall you bought yours new and surely took care of it. And yes, I'm running giant 3rd gen stock tires with my 0.69 overdrive. We have so many differences it's hard to know why my fuel temps are reported as high. For all I know the sensor is bad, my return line is restricted, or since my injectors are small the solenoid has to be energized longer each injection cylce and thus puts more heat in the fuel. Most likely if I did the IBMobile mod the temp would come down. Maybe my relief valve isn't up to snuff.
  12. With relatively fresh stock injectors, 3.55 gears and HY35, is 17* at 1900ish RPM on a slight hill extremely conservative? I see 20* going down hill, that's about it. I haven't tapped the pump so just utilize levels 2 and 3 on Quad. I think I'm running one of your tow tunes for stock trucks that I bought.
  13. Around 118. I think the ECM was doing a lot of pulse width modulating because the pressure would go up and down with a fair bit of regularity, 14 to 17. Then sometimes it would go up to 18-19 for a few seconds. I could not deduce the pattern looking at IAT, boost, load %, fuel temp. I almost tied my relay into the wire that IBMobile recommends if the ECM loses the lift pump circuit, but really didn't want to put a splice in a perfectly good wire.
  14. I don't believe the new pump helped much. Fuel temp reached 141, and it's 10 degrees cooler out. I did have an extra 1,000 pounds in the bed, so the test is far from definitive.
  15. Installed the DRP late this afternoon, bumped starter and achieved 19 PSI. Have over 800 hundred miles to drive this week so we'll see how fuel temps turn out.
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