LorenS

Thanks, Haggar I'll definitely look into the purple Loctite. I also like the idea of the longer screw and a jam nut. I don't really want to mess up the threads in there!

I've had to adjust the screw at least 6 times so far, sometimes after driving only 22 miles or so after driving to work! It's not surprising, I suppose, it seems very loose. Any recommendations on something to 'gum up the works' a little? LocTite Blue seems a little extreme, but I don't want anything very tacky, either, to get covered in dirt and grime and cause other problems. The screw is working its way in, raising my idle speed. As many times as I've turned that screw "out", it'd be all the way out if it wasn't going back it on its own.

"Fixed" the problem with the adjustment screw, but still can't determine what caused the need to adjust it a whole turn or more.

That's what my first thought was, but wanted to make sure it was as straightforward as a bell-crank set screw adjustment, and not a "false" 4.3% reading based on who-knows-what designed in the PCM or body computer, because of a Daimler-Chrysler summer intern designed Rube Goldberg way of doing things.

"Absolute Throttle Position" is now showing 4.3% even with my foot off the pedal and throttle against the set screw under the hood. I still have not unhooked my batteries for a reset of sorts. I haven't touched the APPS in thousands of miles; bought a TIMBO from Mike months ago, and when I went to put it on found out that's what's already installed! So, I have a spare TIMBO. ECT and IAT all seem correct. The MAP sensor registered 14.8 PSIA even with the engine off - that doesn't normally make sense in Kansas City, but NOAA confirms we're at 30.3 inches of Mercury today, aka 14.8 PSIA! Bright blue skies today. Do I follow the "Stopping the Myths" directions to make sure I'm below the voltage? I have not touched the set screw under the throttle cover.

The ECT is used by ECM which then feeds a signal to the dashboard gauge, correct? Or are they a parallel circuit with the gauge and the ECM reading the same sensor but not affecting one another? I ask because the gauge reads the way it always does, but if it's a parallel path then the wire feeding the ECM could have an issue and make it up the idle, right? The fact it all started with the transmission service is the odd thing to me. The "high trans temp" light isn't on, but does the engine high idle to circulate fluid when it believes the transmission is hot but not "so hot I need to light the dummy light"? It's not cold enough to warrant it, but last night I plugged the truck block heater into the timer, so when I fired it up this morning the engine idled at 850ish (did not think to look at ECT on OBDLink). Got to work 25 miles later and the engine idle was up. I did not add a drain (nor a temp sender hole) to my transmission pan, so sure hope I don't have to drain it to wiggle the temp sender wire! Is there another temp sensor wire I may have bonked/tweaked/jostled on the outside of the transmission case?

No tuner of any kind, though I do desire to purchase one! Meant to unhook batteries when I got to work but forgot. Hoping a little battery-free reset will do some good. A fellow here also recommended I check to make sure the MAP sensor is reading correctly, that "if he recalled correctly" the MAP sensor reading can trump the ECM's desire to idle at 850ish. Will read the OBDLink with engine off before unhooking batteries to make sure it reads 0 PSIG, ~14 PSIA, or equivalent in metric. As a side note, the air filter is newish and still very clean. Is it possible that I have a lot of oil blowby though the turbo causing such a problem? I have strong doubts that's the problem because the truck drives the same as always and the idle is super stable. This issue also came up IMMEDIATELY after transmission service. The 8-way electrical connector went back together exactly as one would expect, smooth with a nice click. Could I have done something wrong in the valve body work to cause this? Pressure/temperature sensor connection wasn't removed, and I did push on it just to make sure it was still connected before putting it all back together. While crawling under the truck, I noticed my red CAD vacuum line worked its way out of the elbow (again). I reconnected that while the engine was running, and to absolutely no surprise at all nothing happened with the idle.

I have not adjusted anything near the APPS, which is a Timbo, but I'll look to see if it's at the stop. I'll also look at the TV cable and return spring under the truck. Thanks, gentlemen.

Friday I serviced the transmission, including taking out the valve body to replace plastic accumulator piston with metal one, (manual valve?) to allow flow to torque converter while in Park. I have noticed the last couple of days that the truck - even when warm after 30 mile drive - idles higher than normal, around 1250 versus 800ish RPM. This is in park or neutral. The tach isn't wonky, I only looked at the tach because it sounded fast. Idle while in drive seems normal. I have checked the transmission fluid after 30 mile drive home on interstate, truck in neutral on level ground and it's in the middle of the hatch mark, same as the last 30k miles. Fluid is not "foamy". Anyone have any ideas on what may cause this? No other symptoms or driveability issues. Fuel pressure same as always, engine temp the same, EGTs run the same, voltmeter reads the same, even the MPG estimator seems normal. I'm befuddled! Had over 200 miles on the tank of fuel before symptoms showed up.

If I go WOT in OD, it'll downshift about every time. Engine RPM comes up and fuel pressure goes up. I've never even seen it drop to 5 PSI. I'm hoping next Thursday or Friday I can take a day to address the matter.

I have also purchased a similar spin-on prefilter that uses Donaldson filter to protect the FASS I bought, much preferring a big spin-on to the tiny in-line filter they supplied (and said needed to be changed every 5k miles!) Maybe someday before I break down on the side of the road my wife and kids will "let" me complete this work. When you say you have the same pump, are you on the stock Carter, or did you mean the FASS? If your Carter is putting out 20 PSI, that's amazing to me!

I have read the Caterpillar, University of (Indiana?) and Air Dog, etc. documents about entrained air in diesel fuel affecting power and retarding injection events. Does anyone know if that significantly affects MPG and EGT in our trucks, specifically? It sure seems like my EGT is higher than most (700-800F), my MPG is around 17.5-18 (hand calc) even at 65 MPH in average weather/wind conditions running empty. When I give the fuel a super dose of PDS gray stuff to increase cetane in an effort to advance the ignition, everything improves - but PDS gray isn't free, even if it isn't expensive. I ran Rotella T6 almost 10k miles and had an oil analysis done to check for fuel dilution, coolant, etc. It came back with a good bill of health, including TBN. Before I found this site I had purchased a FASS DRP pump and relocation kit which I have not yet installed, so am still running Carter on the block. I have clean fuel filter, pressure usually in the 8-12 PSI range measured at the VP44 (Vulcan big line from filter to IP), but does drop to around 6 PSI on long grades when I baby it to stay in overdrive (automatic) - with EGT climbing to 1100F . Should I really be looking at putting in an expensive Air Dog, and sell the FASS? The fuel lines from the tank to pump are stock, truck has 300k miles. Should I upsize those and change all gaskets, etc., on the suction side ensure I'm not sucking in air? I do not know the health of the in-tank screen or if it's still there. Symptoms are the same regardless of fuel tank level. Any advice appreciated, even to forget about it because it's normal.

I can think of no persuasive reason to use a 4/0 or even 2/0 ground "crossover cable" to the other battery when you already have 1/0 grounds to the engine block from each battery. The 4-gauge crossover wire will eliminate the voltage drops at each of those connections at the block, better ensuring you have the same voltage at each battery. Sizing it the same as your alternator (4 gauge) wire seems a good rule of thumb. The largest current draw by far is the starter, which grounds through the block - that is why each battery gets a large ground connected to it. If you were to attempt grounding the engine to only one battery directly, then a large (1/0, for example) crossover wire to the other battery would certainly be recommended/required. In that case the ground wire from the engine to the one battery should (probably) be upgraded to 2/0. That said, if you want to spend the time and money to run 3" pipe to your ice maker, yes, it will reduce losses. Mopar1973Man's recommendation to put some engine oil on the cable connections to keep them in great shape will net far greater returns.

I had strongly considered one of those with the green hose. I'm still on the fence as to whether I should change my oil pan due to damage, and the new pans have an 18mm drain vs. the 22mm we all know and love. Until I finally make up my mind on the matter, I won't be buying a drain. I'm also not sure I can justify the $50 cost when I only change the oil a couple of times per year!

I have read the FSM for changing out the center bearing on my 2-piece driveshaft, and looked in the Parts List in the Articles section (which is for 2001/2002). Part # listed is: 04773014. When I go to Rock Auto that part number isn't listed for 2001 models, just 2002 models. For both years, they list options with two different diameters (even when I've selected Diesel and Auto, etc.) 1.5748" and 1.3780". Is there a good way to determine which I need without removing the clamp for the rubber boot and putting calipers on the shaft? EDIT: The difference is in the Wheelbase. If you have a 138" wheelbase (Quadcab, shortbed), you get the 1.3780" bearing. If you have 154" wheelbase (Quadcab, longbed) you get the 1.5748" bearing. Of course neither RockAuto nor other parts retailers care to mention that difference - THANK YOU @Mopar1973Man and your staff for compiling and sharing the parts lists, etc., to aid the rest of the community.