LorenS

Considering I live at 97th, that's likely my place! Thanks!

Anyone have replacement radiator supplier preferences? Mine is leaking at the tank gasket. I don't need a super-duty, haul 25,000 uphill in the desert model.

Rock Auto is the worst. They absolutely refuse to work with a person when dealing with FedEx. Somewhere in this world is a front brake disc that FedEx days was delivered to my dad's shop. FedEx says they have the proof of delivery, yet will not send to me - my dad said he never signed for it - and RA refuses to view the delivery confirmation online or contact FedEx to allow them to share with me. So, I'm out $70. They also sell rear parking brake cables for 2002, 2500 trucks equipped with drum brakes. Unicorns. So, I'm out $11 there, too. They sell brake discs out of one warehouse and pads from another; more lunacy that costs more in shipping. They have good pricing but customer service is awful.

"every A/T3W tire is qualified by USTMA and TRAC for the Three Peak Mountain Snow Flake (3PMSF) symbol" Maybe THOSE will be my next tire! I had a set of BF Goodrich Commercial Traction tires on my old C20 Chevy and my 1995 K1500 Suburban, and they had the three peak mountain snowflake. Absolutely wonderful in the snow and pasture, and they didn't self destruct in the summer heat, either. They did ride a little rough for the poor half-ton Burb, though! Resolved by only running ~30 PSIG. Those BFGs don't come in 17s, last I checked, which is why I didn't buy them.

"under hood mouse nest delete" HA!

I love my tires (see signature). Have 40k miles on them and they still have over 3/8" of tread; they start at I believe 17/32". This is only my first set of tires on my truck, so can't really compare with others. I don't run heavy, around 7,800 pounds, and do a lot of highway driving to construction sites to reach 30k miles per year. Even my daily commute to the office is 98% interstate. I'd buy them again, but plan to try Cooper's American-made tires when I finally need a set, just to support my country. Can't complain about the Yokohamas at all. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+A%2FT+G015&partnum=67SR7G015

I'm very much interested in your Quad. Is this the adapter that is needed? https://www.dieselautopower.com/xzt-data-link-adapter EDIT: Scratch that adapter, I see it's the opposite of what I would need!

My fuel pressure sporadically changes and considering all the prior investigating I have done, I am wondering if a weak Overflow Valve could be the culprit, or if the ECM is commanding full flow. Seems my fuel pressure will go up a little AFTER a long pull, like maybe the VP44 senses its brain is getting hot and needs more flow to help cool it. My fuel pressure sensor is at the inlet of the VP44, which is equipped with a big, long-sweep Vulcan-supplied fitting, not a banjo bolt. I see the procedure for testing the Overflow Valve regulator is on page 14-84 of the manual (1618 of 2939 in the PDF) and seems pretty easy. Has anyone found this item to be a problem? I can't find my exploded VP44 diagram to know if this is before or after the internal pump, not do I know if that would really affect my pressure reading. On the plus side, if this valve is opening earlier and flowing more, that ought to keep my VP44 nice and cool. I have 10 PSIG even accelerating up hill, and sometimes my fuel pressure will go up to 14 (which almost never happens, even cold fuel at idle).

Holy smokes, a fused ankle? Certainly take your time with recovery, doesn't sound to me like anything that should be rushed. I hope you're feeling okay.

I'll be northbound tomorrow in the morning, southbound Wednesday evening. And will do it again every two weeks for at least a couple months. Sporadically after that.

@Blueox01, if you're interested in parting with your HX35, please let me know! I'd like to upgrade from my HY. Every two weeks I make my way up I-29 from Kansas City so should be able to meet you in Bellevue or anywhere around the area convenient for you.

Glad I could help!

If they're molded in, then you'll have to change them on the truck side. The kit I bought for HIDs, I could change it on the light side. I believe this is correct: https://headlightreviews.com/9004-9007-wiring-difference/ Towards the middle of the webpage there's a view from the back of the plugs, if that helps more. https://carhidkits.com/hid-kit-installation-guide/

That's what I figured, but wanted to be sure. Thanks!

Where do the NPT fittings go in this assembly?