Jump to content


Gold Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

27 Unskilled

About Ironforger

  • Rank
    Gold Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Lawrenceville, NJ

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Sounds " cool!" Has a write up been done for this mod? What is actually happening when you flip that switch on? Does it energize the clutch magnet and keep it on constantly 100% no cycling on or off? Thanks!
  2. Thanks @Dieselfuture . That's good to know. I guess I don't need to worry then, since I'm not going much above 1100f so far in most situations. Prolly because of my 4.10 axle ratio. Taking a highway trip soon, so I'll put that to the test! Were you in 6th gear while while driving 65mph? Loving your low RPMS! Do you tow much with that truck? Do you tow in 6th gear? Edit: forgot to ask, what is that AC toggle switch for? Sometimes in my truck I notice the AC compressor coming on while it's set in vent mode, just wanting some fresh air on a cool day without AC. Is that why? I can't figure out why it's coming on when it's no specifically on the AC setting. Thanks!
  3. Hey Guys, Forgot to ask about EGT's. I recently installed boot/egt & fuel/trans temp gauges. How high can I go on the EGT's? At what point do I back off the throttle? Just wonderin what the good operating range is. About where do you like to see the EGT's while cruising at highway speeds? Thanks!
  4. @dripley That's amazing! Especially considering you have the quad cab. When I replaced all of my Ujoints in 2016, it was that same Ujoint that went bad, the one that sits right under the opening between the cab and pickup body. The inside of the Ujoint was bone dry and rusted. (I decided to replace all of them and the center bearing while I had the shaft out). Are there grease/zerk fittings on your factory Ujoints? My original Ujoints did not have zerks, but my replacement Spicer/dana Ujoints do. They are the small flat zerks that require a needle tip nozzle grease gun adapter, which I like, easy to use.
  5. Thanks @Towrigdually , I've got jugs of oil, coolant and drinking water all ready to go! Thanks @Cronus577 , I didnt think of the valves, not sure if Ill have time to do it but I'll try. Good idea regarding the diff fluid. I checked it yesterday and it's looking dirty, thinking it's been in there for 15k and I've been getting some chattering around tight corners lately, so yea time for diff fluid change and LSD (like wow man) additive. Gonna change it today! Thanks @dripley , I just changed the fuel filter, and I have a spare 'ill throw in the the truck. & I just ordered a new non-AC serp belt as @Dieselfuture suggested. Forgot to mention, I greased my U-joints last night. There was some water that came out of the middle U-joint, it's the one that sits right below the opening between the cab and body (are they like this for all trucks? Or just the quad-cab?) It's directly exposed to all rain coming down that gap between the cab and body, and we have had a ridiculous amount of rain this spring. Hoping it's ok, I pumped the grease gently pushed out all of the water until clean grease came out all cups. I last greased it about 8 months ago, I don't remember getting water out of it at that time but we've had an absurd amount of rain over the past 8 weeks. Fairly low miles overall on these joints, about 20k. I always carry my grease gun on the truck, maybe I'll push some clean grease through it again after a few hundred miles. When I get a chance I think I'm going to fab up an aluminum rain sheild & mount it above the ujoint somehow.
  6. Good one @Dieselfuture , not a bad idea to keep a spare non-AC belt with me. I'll be hittin the AC for all it's worth while in Florida, so if it fails, good to have an alternative. @IBMobile , good point, it happens. Honestly a bit nervous about my VP44, I don't know the history of it. Works fine, no codes or symptoms but I have no idea if it's the original pump or not. The yellow tamper tape is torn on the elec connector, that's the only questionable clue. Otherwise it' is indeed the correct pump for the HO w/6speed. I did the right thing when I got the truck, one of the first mods I did was fuel boss mech pump. Been running 2stroke oil since I got it as well.
  7. Good point @Bullet I just put a new belt on, and I threw the old one in the glove box for murphy's law safe keeping! (Old one looks fine anyway)
  8. 02 3500 nv5600 2wd quad cab. 233k. I've been as diligent as possible regarding preventative maintenance, but you know how it is, entropy is a ***** and things go wrong. Now getting ready to put down some serious miles - long distance cross country driving soon, multiple times this spring and summer from NJ to Florida towing a haulmark 20ft car trailer (approx 7,000 gvwr). Here is a list of the repairs i've done, as well as some pro-active maint in anticipation of major highway miles. Is there anything else I should do? Thinking I've got the major failure items covered.. Is there anything else that's know to fail on these 2nd gen 24 valve trucks? Opinions or suggestions appreciated. Thanks! List of recent maint and repairs (in descending order of failure , most recent first - May 2020: 233k Fuel filter, Water pump, idler pulley, serp belt & cam position sensor (FWIW: the cam sensor wasn't bad, I just replaced it pro-actively) - April 2020: 232k Alternator (Also did the W-T ground mod and B+ 150amp circuit breaker ), front brakes - July 2019: pilot bearing, (bronze oilite) rear main seal, trans input and output seals, trans mount, manual trans filter kit and syncromesh lube (overfilled), clutch kit (southbend stage 2), & 4" stainless exhaust - Mar 2019: 229k 4 new rear tires, Front shocks (SACHS 310178, love em! I tried bilstiens up front but they were WAAYYYYY too stiff.) - Dec 2018: 228k: ALL brake lines, brake hoses and brake fluid. - Aug 2018: 227k BHAF (baldwin PA2820) - July 2018: 226k: timbo APPS - Jan 2017: 219k Driver side ball joints, upper and lower, 2 new front tires, differential oil - Dec 2016: New front wheel bearings (and axle nuts) - Jan 2016 ALL U joints and center bearing (dana/spicer) - Nov 2015: Harmonic balancer - Oct 2015: New high flow power steering pump, rebuild vacuum pump, rear shocks (bilstien B46-1908) - Nov 2014 all radiator and heater hoses - Oct 2014: Front suspension components, tie rod ends, idler, pitman, drag link, - Oct - Nov 2013: Fuel boss mechanical fuel pump and big line kit, fuel filter, front main seal, thermostat - Aug 2013 213k rear wheel bearings (all) and seals,, differential oil, calipers (all) new rear rotors, e-brake shoes, puke bottle delete, cleaned radiator, killed the killer dowel pin, manual trans filter kit and syncromesh lube (overfilled) - April 2013 bought truck. 213k.
  9. lol you guys are making me nervous, I have no idea if the vp44 pump in my truck is original or not. Maybe I can call the dealer and have them check by vin# to see if it's been replaced under warranty. At least I'm running 2stroke since the day I bought it in 2013. IIRC it had 213k when I bought it. Now has 230k.
  10. Wow, and how long did that one last?
  11. @dripley How many miles did you get out of your original factory VP44?
  12. Good one! I guess it's not a coincidence then. @dripley how many miles were on your truck when this happend? I'll be checking this more often, like every oil change. I'll see if I can scribe a mark on the mount bracket for future reference to observe if the alternator body is moving position. Good bet there are other trucks out there with this issue without knowing it. Might be worth pulling the bolt to inspect & replace if worn.
  13. I'm replacing this alternator and the mounting bolt. Who knows how many miles it has on it anyway. Could be 230k if it's the factory unit. Getting ready to haul a car trailer next month, can't take chances. Looks like it's been bouncing around for a while, the bolt is worn quite a bit:
  14. Damn was getting ready to do the WT ground mod and noticed the upper mount tab is broken on my Alternator. It's a bosch. Are the bosch and denso alternators interchangeable? I've been shopping around for a replacement but seems to be some confusion about the correct alternator, depending on the eighth digit of the vin. ( in my case it's "C") Advance auto has the actual bosch alternator (based on the alternator part#) but the listing says it's for trucks with a vin: 7 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bosch-premium-100-remanufactured-alternator-al6400x/20851271-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*14999|L3*15587 Rock auto has an alternator for vin: C, the listing says its a bosch, but the pictures are denso. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5778228&jsn=3 Rock auto also has an alternator for vin: 7 and the pictures of it are bosch: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=273175&cc=1441320&jsn=2096&jsn=2096 I called a dodge dealer, they said item is discontinued but at least gave me the part# 5104772AA BUT a google search of that number brings up a denso alternator. A search of the actual part number on my alternator brings up a bosch: 0124525005 Which one should I use? Why is it everyone says my truck vin: "C" should be denso, but my truck has a bosch? Ok so there is a chrysler emblem on my bosch alternator, but who's to guess if it's the original factory alternator. Sure is old and beat up looking regardless. While I was in there I noticed the large positive cable that connects to the alternator (B+)? was rubbing against the top of the alternator body, wire insulation partially worn through. Glad I caught that before shorting out. Pictures:
  • Create New...