portlandareae28

How does the 1" level play into needing adjustable track bars, etc? I am with ya Mike, just not in the cards of my life right now that the truck gets much of a load.

I don't want spray on cap rails even if I do spray in bedliner, I like the look better of a cap rail. I think I would prefer either a smooth SS, or a diamond plate aluminum. At this point I am not worried about the paint, as the paint is already bad. I like the look better of the cap rail on top of the bed, and a tool box on top of the cap rail..

Mine is a 3500 Dually, I don't want to run larger than stock tires which is the 2nd reason I really am swinging toward the rear coming down. My buddy has a gmc dually 4x4 that is way lower than my truck, easier to get into, easier to load in and out of, etc... Anyone have an idea on where to get blocks, and/or how much of the block needs to be removed to get level or very close to it?

This is the direction I am thinking too, but like the wisdom that I can learn here. :-) The rear seems much more simple.

So my truck runs empty 99% of the time and I would really like to eliminate the "rake" in its stance. When I got the truck it had spacers in the front springs and 35's which as everyone here knows took its toll on the front end components. So I have read that as long as the front spacers are 2" or less that it doesn't have too drastic of effect on front end geometry so hopefully less wear on the track bar etc. But I am contemplating just a shorter block in the rear and maybe adding bags for when I do have a load. I would love to hear everyone's thoughts and ideas on this. I wouldn't mind the rear end being lower for easier loading, etc.

Thinking I want to get rid of my plastic bed liner which has rubbed paint, etc and get a set of cap rails and either do a diy or some other type of bed liner. Anybody purchased cap rails recently and have an opinion of them? What cap rails are on your truck and if you can post a pic how far do they wrap over (thinking about covering rubbed paint). Also any opinions on DIY spary in bed liners?

I am not seeing lines on RA either.

Thanks Dave, guess I might need to put on my big boy britches and figure out an alternative route. They say estimated ship date 9/4/19 and I ain't got time for that. :-)

anyone?? hoping to dig into this thing this weekend.

at least you only have to lift the cab to work on them. :-) :-) :-)

Does this look like the right replacement line for plug and play? Not sure how confident I am building my own line. I am looking for the line that runs the frame rail from the front of the truck to the rear diverter. Sorry for the ignorance, I am beyond weak in this arena https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mop-04683310ab?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwkenqBRBgEiwA-bZVtqUWKKY6a8f-bMd3L_akVd4VGoi9OMrS0CBqN0V4SaTZ9xIlO_XEbBoCTnsQAvD_BwE

Front brakes are in, thought I was doing something wrong while trying to bleed. But it seems the fluid was just escaping the system somewhere near the rear 1/3 of the fuel tank as it is all wet and fluid is dripping from there..... guessing maybe a rotten/rusted line back there somewhere unless there is something I am not aware of that could be causing this? Any help is greatly appreciated..

Do you feel it was all worth it? recall which wheel cylinders you went with? I will look into this. I am not sure at this point if the leak is coming from the reservoir and traveling down the lines or if it is coming out of the top of the steering box

So it seems the banjo bolt is different if I were to go to a third gen caliper, so thinking I want everything new in there. Will do a 2nd gen caliper, third gen bracket, pads and rotors. I am going to tear into the rear drums too. I have read about a wheel cylinder upgrade eons ago, is this worth the trouble? I think it was a GM part maybe.

I will find part#'s tonight. Thank you for the feedback!! Thoughts on where to get that brand? I know you have sources that I may not have access to.