jasvan10

He told me that a new pump would be 995.00 ,he also said it has a new pcm,new upgraded diaphram ,there were several new things and some that were reused because there is no reason to change he went over it with me ,I will call him back and confirm all this first before buying. He didnt even try to sell one to me without doing a couple of test first .

I found this company in BAY CITY, MICHIGAN that rebuilds the VP44 and they claim that they were the 1st company in the USA to have the BOSCH 815 test bench and have been rebuilding Injection pumps for over 40 years I would like to know if they are certified by BOSCH rebuilders or they just bought the test bench I really dont know I talked to a guy over there Named Gary and it sounds like he is very knowledgable .

Well ,I agree sometimes I dont feel that I can do something without it taking to long and thats why I took it to a so called professional ,Man was I wronge ,and its winter and very cold and no garage or pole barn to do the work and I end up climbing under the truck drop the tank full of fuel and find this shotty workmenship , I am starting to believe that they delibertly sabotaged my truck to bring in more money and played me for a fool and wanted me to let them fix it right then ,they were Quick on the trigger to diagnose the problem and quote a price in the same Breath I will not condone anyone to bring there truck to this guy . I guess my next step is to start the dissassembly of the parts that will be in my way to access the VP, the weather is getting warmer this week.

I seen the te it did not appear wet I have not looked behind the head where it leads to I will di that sunday, today SAturday I dropped the fuel tank ,pulled all the lines off and pulled the fuel module out I found that when they did the install they broke the plastic clip that holds the sending unit on and pieced it back together also when they installed the fuel pickup elbow onto the top of the module it was loose I removed it and found 4 little raised plastic nubs that the inner washer was up against so I ground them down smooth and installed another rubber washer and tighten back on it has a better seal and its tight also the extra holes that were supposed to be 1/2" to 9/16" were only a 1/4". I put it all back together and went to start it up and it cranked slowly ,now my Batteries are dead ,WHEN WILL IT END< I also pulled the return valve of and tried the air test just didnt seam to work I put a very small wood dowel into the end an was lightly pushing in on the check valve It seamto move very easily ,so Sunday I will go buy new batteries and try to start it ,If this does not work I will surrender and buy a new pump unless there is something else that I might be over looking.:banghead:

OK ,I now see a line that looks like it goes down to a tee ,I have to get under the truck to see where it goes from there so if it goes back to the tank there should be a hookup into the fuel module along with the AD return line and the suction line frome the AD also learning alot here I have to thank you guys for helping I am going to borrow a aircompressor this weekend and see if I can pressurize the tank and check fuel lines for leaks then check the return valve , then IF those too check out I will have to surrender and buy a new VP

is this supposed to be hooked up to what ,Just looked at that and it does not have a line hooked up to it should it?

Sorry ,but I could not reply on this site it would not let me, the box would not show ,any way the old in-tank pump was removed I have it in the Garage ,the truck would not start at all yesterday It just crank till the batteries were low . today it cranked over after 3-4 seconds, it runs good on the road I take it for rides watch the new fuel gauge it drops to 14.5 in 2nd and 3rd gear then back up to 16 -17 psi I dont dare stop anywhere but at home .I talked to a guy in Bay City Michigan that said they were the first to have a BOSCH 815 test bench in Michigan he told me to take a air hose before I do anything else and pressurize my fuel tank to check for fuel line leaks ,he also said they rebuild lots of injection pumps for Farmers and anything that has a injection pump warrenties it for 12 months and puts a new pcm along with several other new parts. I have 3 new 1/2 inch lines coming from my AD 1 return line, 1 suction line , and 1 feed line , I read somewhere on this site that the fuel going to the VP 70% of it is returned back to the tank I think it said its for cooling the VP where on the VP is the return line coming from the VP going back to the tank ?

two were mounted on the engine block and the 3rd was intank and now the AD

this AD is the 4thn lift pump. I had to post 20 or more times before it would let me create a signiture

Yes it is the Original VP , I wonder how accessible gaskets are for replacement of that valve

last nite I took it out and it was about a 3 second crank I have tryied all different combinations of starting it and all have given a relitifly faster start and a long crank it has been sporadic and diverse on all sometimes I do get in and just turn the key and it starts fairly good not like it did prior to AD Sometimes I wait till the pump goes through all the motions and it fires up again quicker then majority oif the time I am starting to loose faith in the VP,I will go out and make a adjustment today and see if this will help. Even my pressures while cranking has been inconsistant now I have seen 7-8 - 10 -15 psi is there any Validity in what Hex says in the overflow valve ?

so there is nothing else that I can look at that may cause the hard cranking if you all agree that the AD pump is working like it should ,the longer cranking occurrs durning the 2nd pump cycle then this maybe the VP ? can bad injectors be a issue ? I dont have a problem driving it down the road it runs good its only the hard starting . my long cranking durning most of the time seems to be around 15 psi sometimes lower

I just came in from starting the truck went through all the motions just as before but tryied cranking when I bump the starter the pump came on again as described before but tryied cranking while its running and all it did was crank . My question is are the pressures seem a bit higher then they should and If I turned it down a bit there will be less pressure on the VP and maybe it will crank over faster like it used to do, just thinking --- Update to the previous post... So, if this keeps starting like it has the last few day I would have to hope to folow the sme procedure as I did today if it continoues does this mean this is the new normal or is it a sign that that the VP is starting to go ,when started it runs good no hitches I drive 20 miles to work everyday how can I tell if the pump is starting to fail?

I seen just as you described, turn key to on, pump run 2 seconds ,bump starter, pump runs again for 25 seconds turned key to crank and it started up about 1 1/2 seconds the gauge said about 15 psi while it cranked ,at idle 18 1/2 to 19 -20 psi let it set for about 2 hours then repeated the same thing ,this time all the pre funtions with the pump were the same but this time while cranking it said 10 psi +- and started right up agin about 1 to 2 seconds . Then I took it for a ride ,as xcelerating it said 16 -16 1/2 psi in the lower gears as I got onto the highway WOT never dipped below 17 psi ran good for 5miles gauge always read between 17psi and 19 psi at 70+ ,only on lower gear xcelerating it dipped down to 16 -16 1/2 psi .

I have jumped into the truck and just turn the key to crank it and the few times that I did that it did start up faster , but not like it did before the AD I used to just get in wait for the wait light to go off and it fired up quick . Now when I get in and let it prime and wait for the wait light to go off it just cranks and cranks and cranks

well ,I did not have a chance to put the truck through the paces today just did not have time tomorrow I have all day to figure out whats going on ,Its been pouring rain here .I think that I am going to turn the pressure down to 15 psi and see if it makes a difference I dont know if 3 to 4 psi will make a difference but first I am going highway to see what it reads when I accelerate . I went to the user cp and I dont think that I am allowed for a signiture it just wontlet me type anything in the box ,mabe I have to post more

Thankyou all for waiting I just came in from working on this wiring and gauge, its all wired and I cut the fuel line hooked up the tee and sensor and I fired it up ,and it works ,I didnt take it for a ride but at a Idle its running at between 18 and 19 psi ,when I pulled the quick diconnect off the fuel poured out of the VP when I installed the tee and fuel sensor I got in the truck turned the key to start and it took about 1 to 2 seconds and it started let Idle for a while and the gauge flickered between 18 and 19 psi and did not change ,now tomorrow I will pull it out of the yard and take it for a spin I will have to duct tape the gauge to dash untill the correct one shows up --- Update to the previous post... I tried to go to user cp and I can only find edit signiture I cannot find anything on createing one

Ok, just recieved my gauge today and I started the wiring on it before I was rained on so hopefully tomorrow I will have the electrical done and cut into the Brand new fuel line going to the VP ,MAN I just get nervous cutting into new stuff but It will have to be done ,Oh they sent me the wronr pillar pod not for my year of truck so that wont be installed till they ship me a new one, I havent been driving my truck the last few days I will be posting again in a day or two

I just checked my invoice from Bridgeway Cummins and the Tech said, he hooked up the insite and found 1 code 211 active. --- Update to the previous post... I found this at a web site Called Diesel Service Parts.com and this list .I dont know if this is all of them or just a few [h=1]ISB fault codes: A complete list of all Dodge Cummins codes for ISB diesel engines[/h]Having trouble finding what your Dodge Cummins codes mean? Here is a list of all Cummins fault codes for the Dodge Cummins diesel engine. Just scroll down the list for a discription of your specific fault code. 111 Electronic Control Module ECM Microprocessor 115 Engine Speed Sensor ESS Circuit 121 Engine Position Sensor EPS Circuit 122 Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor Circuit 123 Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor Circuit 124 Intake Manifold Pressure - Engine Protection 131 Accelerator Position Sensor Circuit 132 Accelerator Position Sensor Circuit 135 Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit 141 Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Choice 141sn Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit 141sw Oil Pressure Switch Circuit 144 Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit 146 Coolant Temperature - Engine Protection 153 Intake Manifold Air Temperature Sensor Circuit 154 Intake Manifold Air Temperature Sensor Circuit 186 Wait-to-Start Lamp Circuit 211 Vehicle Electronic Control Module 234 Engine Overspeed Circuit 261 Fuel Temperature Sensor Circuit 264 VP44 Fuel Temperature Sensor Error 278 Lift Pump Circuit 283 Engine Speed Sensor Supply 284 Engine Speed Sensor Supply 291 Datalink Circuit 334 Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit 352 Sensor Supply Circuit 362 VP44 Fuel Valve High Current Error 363 VP44 Fuel Pump Control Valve Feedback Error 364 Electronic Control Module ECM to Pump Communications Error 365 Fuel Pump Voltage Out of Range Error Low 366 VP44 Fuel Pump Voltage Measurement Error 367 VP44 Fuel Pump Speed/Position Sensor Signal Lost 368 VP44 Fuel Pump Can Not Reach Commanded Timing 369 VP44 Fuel Pump To Engine Synchronization Pulse Not Recognized 372 Idle Select High/Low 373 VP44 Fuel Pump Fuel Shut Off Error 374 VP44 Fuel Pump Calibration Error 375 Electronic Control Module ECM Fuel Calibration Corrupted 376 VP44 Fuel Pump rpm and Fuel Error 377 Fuel Pump Power Relay Stuck-On 381 Intake Air Heater Relay Circuit 382 Intake Air Heater Relay Circuit 383 Intake Air Heater Circuit 386 Sensor Supply Circuit 387 Accelerator Position Sensor Circuit 391 VP44 Relay Coil Supply Circuit 418 Water-In-Fuel Sensor Circuit 429 Water-In-Fuel WIF Sensor Circuit 431 Idle Validation Switch IVS Circuit 432 Accelerator Pedal Circuit ISS 433 Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor Circuit 441 Unswitched Battery Supply Circuit 442 Unswitched Battery Supply Circuit 443 Accelerator Position Sensor Circuit 517 VP44 Fuel Pump Valve Feedback Error 613 Engine Misfire Detection 621 Engine Misfire Detection 622 Engine Misfire Detection 623 Engine Misfire Detection 624 Engine Misfire Detection 625 Engine Misfire Detection 626 Engine Misfire Detection These are all the Dodge Cummins codes available. For more Cummins fault codes list for different engines, choose your engine from

Yesw I have a AD ll DF100 its for stock trucks up to 500 hp which my truck is all stock I am starting to believe its my VP but untill I get my gauge I will be able to answer a lot of questions . Dripley I went to blue chips web site again and there is a lot of information there and how to's I read all of the info on cold cranking hot cranking and all others but no sevice engine lite has went on and the cummins techs only found a 0211 code nothing on the VP

OH ,you know I was thinking about that last nite if it was ok to run it through the original filter canister to utilize the water in fuel sensor that is still hooked up and can you also use the filter in it also or would that be a restriction. After I bumped the starter and checked the flow coming into the seperator I closed it and tryied to start it and it would not turn over several cranks went on 3 times about about 4 seconds each before it turned over on the 4th try. YEP there is something wronge for sure I am going to wait till next week after I get my gauge installed before I buy a IP, and get familer with what has to come off and what tools I will need to get to do this change I guess if anyone is going to screw up my truck up its going to be me I tired of bringing it in for one thing and I always have bigger issuse after I get it back ,I will be in touch with all you thats help me, I thankyou again I will keep reading and keep trying to find the problem when I get my gauge I will chime back in :banghead:

yes I will call AD again on wedensday or friday I should have my gauge installed by then .Dripley ,I did what you said I put a oil pan under the AD and bumped the starter the pump turned on I then opened the wing nut on the water seperator and the fuel did not come out as I would of suspected ,It came out in a steady stream without any preasure is that normal

thanks I am good at making a mess I will try that tomorrow

thanks for replyin ,Yes, I know that I have to figure out which pump rebuilder/retailer is going to give me the better value and I agree with you on what each puts into there rebuilds is how long they last and time will only tell ,I did called airdog on Friday and basicly he gave me a test to do and I perfomed one of them and that was to pull the power to the pump and see what happens and the second was to pinch one of the other lines I cant remember which one it was something about air being sucked into the pump , but he made it clear that he only interested in making sure the airdog was working correct which is understandable ,there was another test to make sure there was no air leaks was to pull the suction line off the tank put it into another fuel can with diesel and try to start the vehical that way and see what happens I seen that I blue chips site , I checked the fittings on the airdog but its hard to tell what happened in the tank itself

I ordered it 2 or 3 days ago so it probally I hope by tuesday , the hook up two the airdog went down under the old fuel canister and too the center of the block ,I got my big self under the truck and the connector looks like its plugged into to where the old connector was plugged ,yes I am seeing now the importance of this gauge I wish I would of registerd on these sites long ago ,I wasent untill I bought a 2008 Super duty with the 6.4 that I started visiting the diesel sites with the issuse I HAD with it but it was under warrenty now it gone, 4.5 years of that was enough --- Update to the previous post... Thanks Dripley, for directing me to this site the more folks I talk to the better off I will find the solution <I did go to blue chips web site and yes these pumps are pricey but if they are what he says they are then to me reliability is more important then looks ,this truck is my daily driver I work in the construction Industry and travel around a tri county area or more so its important that I fix it still cheaper than new