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  1. yes they did indeed. At least that's what they claimed, they applied the torque procedures in accordance to the ARP head studs instructions. I was not there unfortunately. Never again I let someone else touch this truck, I would much rather do it myself that way I know for sure what was done to it. Right now I am back in the limbo, and other than pulling the engine and have a highly rated builder rebuilt my engine, I don't know what else to look in the meantime. My plan now is to buy the most cheap oil brand to top off when needed, which by the way I founded to be the tractor supply brand "tra
  2. I have only drove it about 2K, truck only have 92K on it. I thought it was the turbo but it was fine.
  3. What's strange to me is that I just did all that. The head was completely overhauled. I even pulled the valve cover gasket to double check if any valve seals worked themselves out few thousand miles post repair but they were all secured. They did not looked like the picture you shared with me. Only option I have left is pulling the engine and have someone overhaul it. Yes. Although I did not had an opportunity to see the head being cleaned before work, I hope is not old oil residues. Totally makes sense with regards to the assembly fluid, may be it is just residuals from
  4. Hello everyone, I am back on this thread for further advice, as mentioned before, I had to rebuild the entire head cylinder as result of an abnormal oil consumption I been experience for some time. The whole verdict led to “bad valve guides”. Despite the repair, I am still yet to see any improvements. Last week, I pulled the exhaust manifold to investigate any further anomalies and founded a weird looking “black-sticky residue” on the upper walls of #1, #2, #3, and #4 exhaust ports. It was verily visible on #5, and #6 ports. Can someone please comment, or shear your experience if y
  5. Thomas


  6. Yes sir am gonna have to take the valve cover off and look inside. But what is strange to me is that I just got the truck back from the repair shop getting head work done. And they founded all 12 exhaust, and 2 intake valve guides bad. They replaced them new guides and seals, no additional damage to the head founded during the pressure, magnafluxed test. Even the turbo was good. Unless am looking at a potential oil control rings being stuck now? . But yet, compression was good. On additional note sir, the blue smoke tale noted happens only during acceleration with low engine temp
  7. ***UPDATE-REPAIRS DONE-STILL DRINKS OIL-HELP NEEDED*** After a tedious and painful search for a valuable-trustworthy diesel repair shop in my area, I finally founded one and commended them to work on my truck. The final verdict pointed to multiple bad valve guides and steam seals being bad. So, a complete cylinder head overhaul was needed. Of course, I told the tech to ensure that the aforementioned was the only real problem causing the issue and that nothing else such as a bad turbo, abnormal compression readings, leak down test, signs of cylinder wall wash down, gouges, and nicks were n
  8. Does anybody here knows if there is a thread on this site that points out how to conduct the Cummins recommended nanometer compression check task? That would help a lot. Ty
  9. You think it would be wise to conduct a compression check just to discard any possibilities of a bad ring, if so, what method would you use either nanometer test, or regular compression test gauges ? Ty
  10. Did you noticed the blue smoke coming out soon after you started her up, or you had to depress the gas pedal to able to see the smoke? My truck smokes black when it first start, then blue smoke starts to come out only under throttle load, then clears out.
  11. Yes it’s very frustrating, given the fact that there is no oil leak anywhere. The truck only smokes blue during first start, under light load and clears away soon as temperatures rises. I’m rooting for valve seals first, then I guess am gonna have to pull out turbo and rebuild.
  12. That leaves me with only two options there, Valve seals and turbo. Everything else have checked ok, and truck doesn’t have any leaks anywhere. It sounds economically logical to start with valve seals, then turbo if valve seals don’t fix it. Which of those two can go out first, turbo or valve seals? Ty
  13. Just the normal, 4 inch exhaust, edge comp box, air intake, big bank waste gate, 90 degree elbow on turbo, fass 150. I don’t know if I have bigger injectors though, for what it seems yes. I wish there was a way to tell other than removing them. Thoughts?
  14. Good day everyone, Wanted to discuss with you guys alternative methods before a complete engine torn down. In a nutshell, I have been dealing with an abnormal oil consumption since I purchased the truck with 80K. I’m considering using the Valvoline Premium Blue Restore oil treatment as a final solution before parking out the truck for rebuild. I have my doubts about this oil, though it was designed for ISX Cummins engines to fix some of their new engine oil rings carbon buildup and is 10w30 viscosity. Please advice if you have used this product. I cannot think of anything else other than
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