Tbird9140

My 2000 1Tn, 4wd, auto with 340K just started giving me the above engine code. Looking it up, it stands for TURBOCHARGER BYPASS VALVE OPEN. Does anyone have experience addressing this problem? Where do I start to identify where the problem is? (Please don't say "Turbocharger" ) Is this likely a minor problem (adjustment or small part replacement) or is this likely a major problem (replacement of the turbo)? What are the driving symptoms of this problem code? The truck starts and seems to drive OK even with this check engine light on. (I am not getting any other stored OBDII codes.) Any help on how to address the problem would be appreciated. To Moparman1973 as I know that you read all the posts: My name and address does not seem to appear on the Members map in any form. Is there a reason for that? You can reply via "Messages" if you prefer. Thanks.

LorenS. What year is your truck? Were you planning to swap turbos also? What are make and model of your injectors, and why did you specifically choose these? Would love to hear about your results once you get them swapped.

LorenS Does your post mean that you want to sell your 100 hp injectors?

Thanks for the feedback guys. I am not sure what "popped to 320 bar" means. Sorry for the ignorance. If I buy these injectors do I need to take them someplace and have them "popped" If so, what would be the right bar number for these injectors for my application? Again, thanks for the help.

I have recently been offered a set of 125 Hp DAP Performance Injectors at a good price. I have a 2000, 3500, 4wd, auto Ram with 330K miles. I am looking to get a bit more power when towing and generally replace the likely, worn out/tired original stock injectors. I know they are not Bosch, but some people have given these good marks. Does anyone here have any experience with DAP Performance Injectors, 125 Hp or other, and would these injectors be appropriate for what I am trying to accomplish with my rig. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Sorry, I forgot to mention that the injectors I am considering are DAP 125HP Performance Injectors 8x0.009 VCO- VP8X9VCO125

Thanks Dieselfuture and Mopar1973Man for giving me some ideas for getting a bit more power from my 2000 Ram 1tn. I am a bit confused however as to the best course of action. I will show my ignorance of the situation by asking a couple of followup questions. First of all, I understand that no matter what upgrades I do to the truck, I should probably start with a boost fooler (programmer?) Everyone seems to recommend the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Right so far? With regard to upgraded injectors, I hear RV275 thru +150 hp injectors. Confusing to me as RV275 are rated at only +40 hp which gives me quite a range of options. Do I understand from Mopar1973Man that RV275 injectors are not typically pop tested and flow matched? I do have A column gauges (fuel pressure, EGT and boost) With only the mild RV275s would the Quadzilla still be desirable? Dieselfuture mentions the desirability of getting 62/68/12. I am not clear on what this means. Finally Dieselfuture also says "if you want to spend money,leave the HX35 alone and go with tweens" Again I am not clear on what "tweens" means. Two turbos? My truck is pretty stock with only 5 inch exhaust, K&N air filter, Airdog Raptor lift pump, twin disc transmission and Big Line Kit aftermarket additions. While I am not sure, having bought the truck used, I suspect that I am running with the original injectors at 340K miles. Therefore I am not sure of the condition of the injectors but I suspect that I am currently not getting more than 200 hp from the setup. When I pull a long grade towing a car trailer, I notice a quickly escalating EGT to 1300 or so and a lack of power. I'm not trying to make a drag truck out of my rig, but having said that, what is your guys most cost effective suggestion for me to develop say, a reliable 350-400 hp? Any thoughts would me appreciated.

Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to all you guys who have tried to help me with this noisy issue. The very night I solved this problem I was scheduled to drive the truck to the West Coast and pick up a classic car I had in storage. With packing, traveling and other issues with the truck during the trip of some 5000 miles (See 911 Forum for these headaches) I just haven't thought much about responding to an already solved problem. Anyway, like most issues the simplest solution is frequently the best solution. As it turns out, neither the wheel bearings, balancers, intake hoses, or U joints had any thing to do with my loud sounding noise. Remember, it only appeared when I decelerated, and the more aggressive the acceleration when decelerating the louder the WHIRRR. Following some suggestions I also removed the rubber air intake tube to the turbo but could find absolutely no play up or down, or side to side of the turbo shaft. The local diesel pickup repair shops were all too busy to look at my truck, so on an off chance I stopped by the Kenworth dealership. The took pity upon me and let one of their mechanics do a 5 minute ride-along. He grinned when he heard the loud noise after less than a block in the truck. When we returned to the Kenworth repair bays he asked me to pop the hood. In less than 30 seconds he called me over and said "there's your problem" Anyway, with all the work that I have recently done on the truck, including replacing the pan gasket, I apparently inadvertently loosened the bolts that held the exhaust flange to the back of the turbo. (I am pretty sure I did not wrench-loosen these) My recent trips to Chicago, et al, had cause the bolts to completely back off and fall out hence allowing the exhaust flange and exhaust pipe to move back about a 1/2 inch from the turbo - most of the gap being at the bottom where it was harder to see. Apparently, as it was explained to me, when you decelerate the waste-gate purges the turbo of unwanted air by channeling it out the exhaust. With the higher exhaust gas pressure and the gap between the flange and the turbo, it created a situation like blowing through old style whistle to create a sound. Guess the truck was only trying to get my attention. Anyway two bolts and 15 minutes later the mechanic had "silenced" my truck! (Not that you can ever silence a Cummins 5.9) I feel pretty stupid not finding the source of the noise, but in my defense, the flange gap was mostly visible from underneath the truck, and further it was pretty much impossible create the noise from inside the cab and simultaneously be under the hood to see where it was coming from.. I am now faced with another possible challenge that I would appreciate any thoughts you guys might have. My 2000, 4wd, auto, 3500 now has 340,000 miles on it. I have owned the truck from about 200,000 miles. I have pretty much babied it since I owned it. (I don't think it has ever seen 3000 rpms) I do feel, however, especially on this last trip, that it has lost some of its towing power. The stock turbo appears to have no shaft wear movement and the truck used only two quarts of oil for the entire 5000 mile trip. (Pretty good huh, for an old horse?) An associate has offered me a set of slightly used (approx. 500 miles) DPT(?) +75 injectors for my truck for $500. I looked it up and the retail for the injectors was approximately $800. Would this be a reasonable investment for me to make on the truck? Is the price for the injectors fair? Would the stock turbo provide adequate boost to take advantage of the larger than stock injectors? Some forum responders have commented that my existing turbo boost seems a bit low (See comments in other replies of the 2nd Gen forum), but I understand that turbos for auto, 4wd, one ton Rams were set up originally a bit lower that stick and 2wd units. In any case, will I need to replace my stock Holset HX35(?) turbo, and if so, with what? Finally some local guys have suggested that adding performance items to a 340K motor is a waste of money - but the 5.9 does seem to be still running OK. Any thoughts?? Thanks for all your help.

I finally got home with the intermittent Brake and ABS dash lights keeping me awake, off and on, for the last 1000 miles. Haven't noticed the "Boom" now for some time on startup. Time now to address the brake warning light issues. It was recommended that I replace the front wheel ABS (Speed?) sensors to see if this fixes the problem. As the sensors are about $10 each on Ebay, I guess this means that I should simply replace BOTH sensors to try and fix the warning light issue this way??? If this doesn't permanently fix the problem, any suggestions on what I should do next?? I also plan to go to my local Oreilly's and have them do an OBDII code read for me. Maybe this will give me some additional info on the brake light issue.

If you ever figure out the "boom", please let me know. After a 150 miles of no dash warning lights, the ABS and Brake lights have come back on. When I start up truck, I get a ,"check brakes" notification for about two seconds, then it turns off. No "Check Engine" light while driving. I appreciate the help.

My speedometer appears to work fine. Regarding "boom" on startup, I am not aware of any under the hood after market additions on the truck. I certainly have not added any. Further, the boom has been there since I bought the truck. The only times I have not heard it (I recall) is when the ABS and Brake lights have come on. I plan to limp home and run the OBDII checks and sensor replacements you have suggested. Thanks.

Thanks for the possible solutions. After driving 50 miles the ABS and Brake lights turned off. Further, when I started the truck after a lunch stop l again heard the under the hood "boom" which had been missing all the time the ABS and Brake lights were on. (I am not sure if they are related), maybe you can educate me on the boom. In any case unless the brakes get worse, they are not great at stopping, I will probably try to limp home where I have more resources. Thanks again.

( 2000 Ram 1 tn 4wd diesel auto, 340000 miles) Now that I got my fuel pressure issue solved, my brakes have decided to act up. They have been "spongy" and not strong stoppers for about 200 miles. I was going to wait till I got home to address the problem. Now however the Brake and ABS dash lights have come on permanently when driving. I also do not hear the semi loud "boom" I always heard in the past when turning the key on. I am aware of the sensor on the rear differential, but is this the kind of symptom that a failed sensor would cause? Also is there not a 6 pin brake switch somewhere that occasionally fails. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. Booster, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, etc. ????

OK guys, thanks for all the suggestions. This week when I have a bit of time, I will check the turbo for play and the harmonic balancer. I didn't notice the fenders being close to any boots and I did not notice any distorted rubber mushed or sticking out as a result of oil contamination. While I don't have the crankcase vent mod, my blowby is routed down from the canister to the back of the engine underneath. As I don't take the truck off-road, I don't see any extreme grades so this setup has worked for me. Please keep in mind however that I ONLY hear the noise as the rpms DROP after taking my foot off the accelerator. Any suggestions that would create a noiseother than during this time is not likely to be my problem. Regarding the turbo, when I get a few dollars together, I was planing on changing out both the turbo and injectors. I am not trying to produce a drag truck, but would like a bit more torque/horsepower when pulling a loaded car trailer up a 5 mile 6% grade in the Rocky Mountains. I was thinking something like +75-100 Hp injectors, and a new turbo. I some time ago I overhauled the tranny to twin disc, so I was not planning on changing anything there - maybe adding a trans temp sender. Does any of you have a turbo/injector recommendation which meets my goals and has been reliable for you.

Lots of replies about wheel bearings. Don't think that is my problem. Went to a steep hill, put it in neutral and coasted down hill, and no noise what so ever. Then drove back up hill accelerating - then took foot off pedal, got noise until rpms dropped. Checked exhaust don't hear or see any leak. Started truck and left in park. Revved it up to 3000 rpm and then quickly took foot off accelerator. I could hear the noise but interestingly, not nearly as loud as when driving down road and did same thing. I don't have knobby tires, use truck exclusively for towing cars on highways. This started up about two weeks ago and I have not messed with tires, exhaust, or anything that I can think of around or shortly before that time. Did put a set of A column gauges (fuel pressure, exhaust temp, and boost) about a month ago. Not sure this is related but driving down flat highways at 45 mph my boost shows practically nothing (maybe 2 lbs.) When I accelerate from a start at a stop light with no load maybe the gauge goes to 6 lbs. Pulling trailer and full sized car at 55 mph up long incline, never have seen more than about 16 lbs. As far as I know (bought truck used) I am running stock turbo and injectors. Do these numbers seem correct for a truck with 335,000 miles, uses no oil and has no known driving issues. Could I be losing my turbo resulting in the noise? I am pretty sure that the noise is engine or tranny related, it just doesn't sound like anything else, especially as I don't get it except when I am decelerating. Thanks guys for at least trying to diagnose my problem. Sorry, forgot to mention. No exhaust brake. Can't get noise with any amount of "coasting" Only loud and persistent when driving and let up on accelerator. Like decelerating for a stop light or slowing down while accelerating when an idiot pulls out in front of me. at 25 mph. My truck is normally pretty loud from exhaust noise so I guess it could be there when I am accelerating. But I don't think so. When I take my foot off accelerator on every occasion, I hear noise. The harder I was accelerating (higher rpms) the louder the noise. I may need to drive the truck again to the West Coast soon to pick up an old TBird (I restore them) and don't want to start out with a "ticking time bomb". Regards All.

If its not one thing its another. With the help of you guys finally got the obvious issues resolved with my white beast. Now however about a week ago the truck started producing a new quite loud sound when I let up on the accelerator. Hard to reproduce in letters but sort of a "whirrr" or "rurrr" noise that starts the moment I take my foot off of the fuel pedal and continues until the rpms drop. The harder I am accelerating when I release the pedal, the louder it is. I do not hear it when I am accelerating but at that time the exhaust noise may be covering up the sound. I don't notice any driving issues (truck seems to be running normally) and no check engine light, so can't report any consequences of the noise. The noise starts up loud and trails off as truck coasts slower, ceasing when the rpms bottom out. Can't really say if it is coming from 5.9 or 47RE. Don't want to be driving the truck if this is the sign of a bigger problem as I have had to already replace one VP44. Any thoughts or suggestions? Any tests or checks I should undertake of the engine or tranny to diagnose my issue. It is a bit unnerving to drive in the city and hear this noise every time between traffic lights. Thanks again for any help.

I can NOT say that that the problem is definitely NOT the ignition switch. But when I have have the no start/everything off problem, I have tried cycling the ignition switch several time and gotten no response. Wait a few hours and it all seems to work again. No, I almost never use the tilt column as I am the only driver and it was set for me 5 years ago.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm not sure however how worn starter contacts would cause everything in the cabin to shut down. Same with a bad fuse. Mopar1973Mans suggestion of a possible bad ground cable is the only cause which I understand would shut down everything when I try to start the truck. . I will use one of my jumper cables to check this possible problem problem next time the truck doesn't start. But as the other battery is also grounded to the block, would this ground have to fail at the same time also? A cracked fuse which could not be identified from visual inspection would likely cause the starter not to function, but would it also turn off all the lights and buzzers in the truck (everything OFF)? How would worn starter contacts would cause all lights to shut off - i.e. no power anywhere? I did inspect the fuses and didn't find any obvious problem. Will ohm test them now. But again I don't understand how any single bad fuse would cause everything in the truck to shut off when I try to crank the starter. (I have no dash lights, no head lights, no radio, no entry light, no courtesy lights, no key in ignition buzzer, nothing!!!!) Sorry, but as you can see I am pretty much an electrical dunderhead.

A few times now since I got my oil leak stopped, I have tried to normally start my truck and got absolutely NOTHING. Before I turn the key to the start position everything appears normal. Dash lights, key in ignition bell, etc. all work. The moment I try to start the truck, ( after checking that the "wait to start icon" is off) , I hear a "click" and everything turns off - no dash lights, no starter, nothing! It is like I have no battery installed. Thinking that my massive oil leak may have caused an electrical connection problem, I cleaned all terminals and reattached all battery and starter cables, and checked battery voltage, and checked fuses. All seemed in order. I got back into truck and turned the key to run. All lights and alarm bells again operated properly. But again when I turned the key to "start", no starter crank and everything turns off. No amount of key cycling makes any difference to dash lights or starting. Sometimes when I go out and bang on battery terminals, wait a minute and get back in truck, I again have dash lights and alarm bells, but turn the key, and everything again shuts down again. Being home, and not needing the truck, I walked away in frustration and used one of my other vehicles. The next morning, I went out to the truck, got in the cab, and turned the key - everything worked and the truck cranked, and started normally. Moved the truck around the house, ran an errand and returned home. When I tried to restart the truck, it would not start and I got the exact same symptoms. Now if I wait some time (i.e. 6 hours) and bang on the battery cables, there is a 50-50 chance it will start. If it starts and I shut it down immediately, it will usually start again. But shut it down and wait and hour, and it is likely it won't start. The banging and such may be coincidental and it only requires time to operate. - I simply don't know. It has gotten so that if I need the truck, I now keep it running the full time while I am using it - for fear that it won't start and leave me stranded. I now never turn off the truck unless I am home and it is parked out of the way. Any thoughts out there from the gurus in 5.9 24v land? Love my truck but this is frustrating.

For those of you who have been following my frustrations with a massive oil leak from my 2000 4wd, 1 tn, auto, flatbed Ram, you will be happy to know that I finally got the problem solved. As the problem and its solution are, I believe, somewhat unique, I thought that I should post my experiences here on the Forum for all of you to get a chuckle. My problem developed a couple of months ago as when returning from a cross country trip the truck started losing massive amounts of oil. The entire under carriage of the Ram and even the car trailer I was towing was covered in oil. I was using about a gallon of oil every 100 miles. Anyway I pulled into a diesel shop in Kingman, AZ and got the diagnosis of a leaking tappet cover gasket. They said that they were too busy to get to the job for at least a week, but if I endeavored to keep oil in the truck on the 1200 miles (12 gallons of oil) remaining, I shouldn't do any damage to the engine. With a grin the mechanic also commented that at least I wouldn't have to worry about any rust in the near future. To make a long story short, I limped home putting oil in the truck every 100 miles. When home I went to the local diesel mechanic who said that he couldn't get the job for at least two weeks. So with the help of Mopar1973Man and others, I took on the job myself and finally got it done. Anyway, a week after my tappet gasket replacement, I needed to take a 1000 mile round-trip to the East Coat to pick up some parts I had purchased. I had not gotten 50 miles down the road when it became apparent that I had not stopped the oil leak. As I had no choice. I again pulled into the local Walmart, bought them out of diesel oil, and continued on my trip. When I got back home, I went to a different diesel mechanic and asked for a diagnosis of my problem. He crawled under the truck and informed me that I had a significant pan gasket leak. When I asked him to fix the problem, he informed me that he was booked up for at least 3 weeks. So again with help from members of this forum, I undertook the job of replacing the pan gasket. While replacing the pan gasket, as the truck motor was jacked up and partially torn apart, I took this opportunity to also add a "big line kit" to my VP44 inlet, replace the solenoids and accessible sensors in the transmission, and add "A column" gauges of fuel pressure, boost, and exhaust temperature. While doing all this work I discovered a badly deteriorated engine mount bushing ( from being soaked in oil ) which is now on my to do list. To be able to more easily work in and around the pan and transmission, I also cleaned the entire undercarriage of the truck. You can imagine that I was quite proud of my completed work. I had no more than completed the gasket replacement when I got a call from a friend near Chicago (450 miles from me) who said that he had found a Ford Falcon camper van for me to buy at a ridiculous low price. As he knew I had wanted a Class B R/V, I immediately took off in my Ram and car trailer to pick up the motorhome. Heck, what could go wrong after a pan gasket replacement and a few new gauges? Again, I had gotten no more than 50 miles from my home when I nearly ran out of oil. Now I was really pxxxxsed off! With again no choice, I stopped at the local Walmart and bought 12 gallons of oil. Along the way I stopped at two diesel repair shops and got diagnosis for my problem of a leaking rear main seal and a failed head gasket. In both cases they were too busy to get to my problem for at least 10 days. When I arrived in Morris, IL, I explained my problem to my friend who suggested that I should take my truck to a local repair shop where he had had good results. Anyway I called them, explained my problem. and they took pity on the poor out-of-town traveler and agreed to see me the next morning. The next morning I arrive at D&R Racing before they opened. After hearing my sad story the D&R Manager informed me, that as they had recently hired a mechanic who used to work for Cummins, they would put him on it right away. The mechanic took about 10 minutes inspecting my engine above and below with a flashlight and turned to me with grin on his face. His only comment was "that oil seems to be coming from a strange place." He next got out his tools and removed the bolts holding the diesel filter in place. As I had recently put a rubber big line kit between the VP44 and the filter, replacing the metal fuel line, it was easy for him to move the filter completely out of the way without removing it. He had no more than moved the filter when he called out to the other mechanics, " Hey guys, come over here, you gotta see this!" When they all departed chuckling, he called me over and explained. "The Cummins 5.9 block and been cast for many years and used in many different applications without much in the way of changes to the basic configuration. Early 5.9's and some nonautomotive applications had even used a mechanical fuel pump to provide fuel to the engine. Anyway as a provision for a mechanic fuel pump the basic block had a hole in its side allowing the pump lifter arm to ride on a lobe of the cam shaft. In normal and later applications this hole was covered by a gasket and a cover plate which was held in place by two bot holes machined into the block to secure the mechanical fuel pump. In my case someone had removed the plate, or never installed it originally, and attempted to close the hole with simply gasket material covered in RTV and held in place by the two retaining bolts- only one of which was still screwed into my block." The mechanic comment that in 30 years of working on 5.9's he had never seen this. I may have mixed up his explanation a bit, but sure enough, while I was watching, he started the motor and oil was pouring out of a 1/2 inch diameter hole only partially covered with torn gasket material. As I had purchased the truck with 175K, and I had never tampered with this area on the block, and as it now has 330K on it, it has taken at least 155K miles for the gasket material patch to break through. Heck, the mechanic said with a grin, " They may have forgotten to add the cover plate at the factory." With a 1/2 hour of labor, a new manufactured cover plate, and some new gasket material and RTV, I was back on the road. It turns out that all the gasket repair work I did was unnecessary. Hundreds of, if not thousands of, dollars for oil and replacement parts were spent when only a 2x3 inch plate and some gasket material would have solved the problem. I don't usually mention diesel repair shop names, but under the circumstances, having gone to 5 other diesel mechanics and gotten erroneous diagnosis, I would recommend now that if any of you are in the Morris, IL area (about 50 miles south of Chicago) and need diesel repair help, you know my experience with R&N Racing. The final chapter to my story is that during the nearly 500 mile return trip home, I did not use a quart of oil! Only thing remaining is to get back under the truck now and again remove all the slimy undercoat - aw heck, I might just leave it as a rust preventative. Oh, by the way, I am having a garage sale this weekend, the featured item being a really good price on 12 gallons of unused diesel motor oil. PS. For all you 5.9 owners, you might should get out a flash light and a mirror and look behind your fuel filter, you never know!!

Thanks guys. Next time ? I will buy a gauge (ISSPro?) with a warning light as an included component. This time however I have already bought my Glow Shift gauges. Following your responses, I prepared a 4 inch wire with eyes on either end. One end goes around the idiot light sender 1/8 NPT and the other slips on to the negative pole of my gauge sender. I had to put a washer over the idiot light sender threads between my new ground wire and the "T" as otherwise even strongly tightening the sender onto the "T" did not compress the ground eye sufficiently to always make a good strong contact with the sender housing. Hooked it all up and now I have an idiot light for the idiot. Hurray! One quick question here. Should I be concerned about the air that got into my fuel lines during installation of big line kit and senders? Does cycling my Raptor, turning the key on 5-10 times for a minute without starting the truck likely solve all air problems? Or do I need to bleed the system? If I need to bleed, how so? Cracking my injectors? I'm doing all this to protect my VP44 and would hate to screw it up now because air damaged the injection pump Cracking the injectors would only remove air after the VP44. Again should air be a concern or can it safely be "flushed" through the system? I have not thoroughly checked any leaking on my mods as I am waiting to possibly address the entrapped air consideration before I pressurize the system. One last issue. Since my truck has about 325K on it and I bought the truck at 200K, I have no knowledge of the age, size or type of injectors it is currently running. I do have the impression however that it has lost some power in the last year or so. (Other than loss of power my truck does seems to run/drive fine - no excessive blowby, oil burning, or smoke, etc.) I am therefore considering putting some new aftermarket injectors on it. I may also upgrade the turbo. I'm not looking to make a drag queen out of the truck, only giving it a bit more oomp on those long 5% grades while towing my 28' boat or 5th wheel. I am leaning to putting +75 to +90 injectors on it. Do any of you have any thoughts on my plans, and/or what sizes, brands, or types of injectors I should look for, or stay away from? Similarly, is there any combination of injectors and turbo which you have had good luck with and think I should consider? I did up grade my 47re to twin disk about 75K miles ago. Finally, if I do go with a mild power upgrade as discussed, do I need to add a transmission temperature gauge or other monitoring sensors? Thanks again guys. Thanks Mopar1973Man for your thoughts and advice. Plan to do bleed as suggested before starting the motor. Cycling Raptor without starting motor got my no running fuel pressure up to 18 PSI and thankfully the idiot light turned off. Question for 015point9: Why is 5 PSI alarm light worthless in your opinion? I don't want to start an argument or rehash old posts, but EVERYTHING that I have read says that with the motor in stock configuration, the VP44 can run all day long without damage at 5 PSI. Anything below this - a problem! Several non Bosch companies I see have run tests to confirm this. I understand that an alarm light at 10 PSI gives more margin for error. However it is my plan to immediately pull over and shut down the engine anytime my 5 PSI alarm light turns on while driving. At that point I will immediately look for the common low fuel pressure problems: a clogged filter; a failed lift pump, or a leak which developed somewhere in the fuel lines. Last question. Have any of you replaced the engine mount bushings on a 5.9.? When I was working under the truck to replace the oil pan gasket I noticed that my bushings were in pretty bad shape (325K miles). I understand that is best to do one side at a time and raise that side just enough to take pressure off the through bolt. Remove the mount by removing the three bots which secure it to the block and loosening the through bolt. On the driver's side it might be necessary to raise the engine further or remove the starter to get clearance for through bolt to get by. Plan to use Prothane bushings which I have already bought. Any experience out there with these bushings or this job? MY first reaction is that I am not sure how I am going to access all 3 bolts which secure the mount to the bock. A couple look nearly inaccessible. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks guys. Next time ? I will buy a gauge (ISSPro?) with a warning light as an included component. This time however I have already bought my Glow Shift gauges. Following your responses, I prepared a 4 inch wire with eyes on either end. One end goes around the idiot light sender 1/8 NPT and the other slips on to the negative pole of my gauge sender. I had to put a washer over the idiot light sender threads between my new ground wire and the "T" as otherwise even strongly tightening the sender onto the "T" did not compress the ground eye sufficiently to always make a good strong contact with the sender housing. Hooked it all up and now I have an idiot light for the idiot. Hurray! One quick question here. Should I be concerned about the air that got into my fuel lines during installation of big line kit and senders? Does cycling my Raptor, turning the key on 5-10 times for a minute without starting the truck likely solve all air problems? Or do I need to bleed the system? If I need to bleed, how so? Cracking my injectors? I'm doing all this to protect my VP44 and would hate to screw it up now because air damaged the injection pump Cracking the injectors would only remove air after the VP44. Again should air be a concern or can it safely be "flushed" through the system? I have not thoroughly checked any leaking on my mods as I am waiting to possibly address the entrapped air consideration before I pressurize the system. One last issue. Since my truck has about 325K on it and I bought the truck at 200K, I have no knowledge of the age, size or type of injectors it is currently running. I do have the impression however that it has lost some power in the last year or so. (Other than loss of power my truck does seems to run/drive fine - no excessive blowby, oil burning, or smoke, etc.) I am therefore considering putting some new aftermarket injectors on it. I may also upgrade the turbo. I'm not looking to make a drag queen out of the truck, only giving it a bit more oomp on those long 5% grades while towing my 28' boat or 5th wheel. I am leaning to putting +75 to +90 injectors on it. Do any of you have any thoughts on my plans, and/or what sizes, brands, or types of injectors I should look for, or stay away from? Similarly, is there any combination of injectors and turbo which you have had good luck with and think I should consider? I did up grade my 47re to twin disk about 75K miles ago. Finally, if I do go with a mild power upgrade as discussed, do I need to add a transmission temperature gauge or other monitoring sensors? Thanks again guys.

Greetings Guys. Back again with more fun. Just completed replacing tappet cover gasket, upgrading transmission solenoids et, al. and pan gasket replacement with help of the site. Thanks guys for all the assistance. If these three projects were not enough pain in the ***, I decided to replace the engine mount bushings and add a big line kit and a set of A Column gauges (egt, boost and fuel pressure). Yeh, I know, a real masochist. Anyway my truck (2000 flatbed, extended cab, 1 TN, 4WD with 325K miles) currently has an idiot light for fuel pressure which I originally installed a couple of years ago when I added a Raptor lift pump. I would like to keep the idiot light just in case I don't happen to notice a falling needle on my new pressure gauge. (See - they named the light after me!) Everything went fine with the big line kit and gauge installation until I got around to testing my handiwork. The gauges work fine, but the low fuel pressure light does nothing. I tested the light - good. I tested the (+) lead to the light - good. I tested the (-) lead to the light - NO GROUND. Then it occurred to me. When the Low Fuel Pressure light was originally installed it was attached to the Banjo Bolt and got its sender ground through the metal contacts to the engine. Now the sender is attached to a "T" in the middle of the rubber big fuel line between the filter and VP44, hence, no ground. My big line kit replaces the Banjo bolts. (As I understand it, the low pressure sender internally is normally grounded but when it sees 5PSI (in my case) the pressure opens the contact and you have no ground contact between the sender threads and the wire attachment point to the low pressure light.) In my case now since there is no ground to start with, my light never functions. Then it occurred to me. What if I can provide a ground to the sender threads then it would function normally? So, now if I got a large ring wire connector that would fit over the threaded end of the sender and run a wire to the (-) battery terminal or another ground source, would not I solve my problem? The new fuel pressure gauge sender 2 inches away has a ground lead and I might just tap into that. I would only have to be sure that when I tightened my sender into the "T" in the big line it made good contact/compressed with the wire ring and did not leak. Has any of you gurus out there in Cummins' land faced this problem? If so, how did you solve it and does my proposed solution make any sense? Regarding the fun of my engine mount bushing replacements, I will have to get back to you on that. I may be over my head on this one. If I get these done, I'm thinking of moving on to injectors and turbos. Never a dull moment.

Thanks dripley. Any thoughts on the vacuum line or is that plastic circular thing on the end just the way they normally block off unused vacuum hoses?

While replacing the tappet cover gasket on my 2000 4WD 3500 Ram Automatic (VP44) (Thanks Mopar1973Man as I used your 2 great "How to" posts extensively to replace the gasket), I came across two lines near the back of the tappet cover which are currently not hooked up to anything. Before I complete the installation, and before I seal everything up, I thought that I should ask the Forum if these two lines should be connected to something that I have overlooked. I have attached a photo with a yellow note pad as background. One line appears to be an electrical plug with up to 4 connections. It stands out in the photo. The other, at the top of the photo and barely on the yellow pad, appears to be a plugged or broken vacuum line. It seems to have a black 1 inch piece of plastic around the end. It is not obvious what these lines are supposed to be connected to. I guess it is also possible that during my removal of the tappet cover, I somehow broke or disconnected one or both of these lines. I certainly was careful and tried not to do this, but I must admit that the tappet cover was a bit difficult to remove as I chose not to disconnect the 3,5, and 6 injection lines from the engine. I am hopeful that these two lines are simply a function of Chrysler using generic vacuum and electrical harnesses to accommodate all vehicles, some with options that don't apply to my truck. If anyone knows the answer, or use of the two lines, I would appreciate knowing. I feel that it will be a bit disconcerting driving down the highway knowing that there are to lines under the hood which are not connected to anything! Maybe one of them is necessary for a panic break stop.

Can I get cavitation in a VP44 pump system with the frame rail mounted Raptor? If possible, how do I tell, as I sense no vibration or reduction in performance?