Tbird9140

My 2000 1Tn, 4wd, auto with 340K just started giving me the above engine code. Looking it up, it stands for TURBOCHARGER BYPASS VALVE OPEN. Does anyone have experience addressing this problem? Where do I start to identify where the problem is? (Please don't say "Turbocharger" ) Is this likely a minor problem (adjustment or small part replacement) or is this likely a major problem (replacement of the turbo)? What are the driving symptoms of this problem code? The truck starts and seems to drive OK even with this check engine light on. (I am not getting any other stored OBDII codes.) Any help on how to address the problem would be appreciated. To Moparman1973 as I know that you read all the posts: My name and address does not seem to appear on the Members map in any form. Is there a reason for that? You can reply via "Messages" if you prefer. Thanks.

LorenS. What year is your truck? Were you planning to swap turbos also? What are make and model of your injectors, and why did you specifically choose these? Would love to hear about your results once you get them swapped.

LorenS Does your post mean that you want to sell your 100 hp injectors?

Thanks for the feedback guys. I am not sure what "popped to 320 bar" means. Sorry for the ignorance. If I buy these injectors do I need to take them someplace and have them "popped" If so, what would be the right bar number for these injectors for my application? Again, thanks for the help.

I have recently been offered a set of 125 Hp DAP Performance Injectors at a good price. I have a 2000, 3500, 4wd, auto Ram with 330K miles. I am looking to get a bit more power when towing and generally replace the likely, worn out/tired original stock injectors. I know they are not Bosch, but some people have given these good marks. Does anyone here have any experience with DAP Performance Injectors, 125 Hp or other, and would these injectors be appropriate for what I am trying to accomplish with my rig. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Sorry, I forgot to mention that the injectors I am considering are DAP 125HP Performance Injectors 8x0.009 VCO- VP8X9VCO125

Thanks Dieselfuture and Mopar1973Man for giving me some ideas for getting a bit more power from my 2000 Ram 1tn. I am a bit confused however as to the best course of action. I will show my ignorance of the situation by asking a couple of followup questions. First of all, I understand that no matter what upgrades I do to the truck, I should probably start with a boost fooler (programmer?) Everyone seems to recommend the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Right so far? With regard to upgraded injectors, I hear RV275 thru +150 hp injectors. Confusing to me as RV275 are rated at only +40 hp which gives me quite a range of options. Do I understand from Mopar1973Man that RV275 injectors are not typically pop tested and flow matched? I do have A column gauges (fuel pressure, EGT and boost) With only the mild RV275s would the Quadzilla still be desirable? Dieselfuture mentions the desirability of getting 62/68/12. I am not clear on what this means. Finally Dieselfuture also says "if you want to spend money,leave the HX35 alone and go with tweens" Again I am not clear on what "tweens" means. Two turbos? My truck is pretty stock with only 5 inch exhaust, K&N air filter, Airdog Raptor lift pump, twin disc transmission and Big Line Kit aftermarket additions. While I am not sure, having bought the truck used, I suspect that I am running with the original injectors at 340K miles. Therefore I am not sure of the condition of the injectors but I suspect that I am currently not getting more than 200 hp from the setup. When I pull a long grade towing a car trailer, I notice a quickly escalating EGT to 1300 or so and a lack of power. I'm not trying to make a drag truck out of my rig, but having said that, what is your guys most cost effective suggestion for me to develop say, a reliable 350-400 hp? Any thoughts would me appreciated.

Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to all you guys who have tried to help me with this noisy issue. The very night I solved this problem I was scheduled to drive the truck to the West Coast and pick up a classic car I had in storage. With packing, traveling and other issues with the truck during the trip of some 5000 miles (See 911 Forum for these headaches) I just haven't thought much about responding to an already solved problem. Anyway, like most issues the simplest solution is frequently the best solution. As it turns out, neither the wheel bearings, balancers, intake hoses, or U joints had any thing to do with my loud sounding noise. Remember, it only appeared when I decelerated, and the more aggressive the acceleration when decelerating the louder the WHIRRR. Following some suggestions I also removed the rubber air intake tube to the turbo but could find absolutely no play up or down, or side to side of the turbo shaft. The local diesel pickup repair shops were all too busy to look at my truck, so on an off chance I stopped by the Kenworth dealership. The took pity upon me and let one of their mechanics do a 5 minute ride-along. He grinned when he heard the loud noise after less than a block in the truck. When we returned to the Kenworth repair bays he asked me to pop the hood. In less than 30 seconds he called me over and said "there's your problem" Anyway, with all the work that I have recently done on the truck, including replacing the pan gasket, I apparently inadvertently loosened the bolts that held the exhaust flange to the back of the turbo. (I am pretty sure I did not wrench-loosen these) My recent trips to Chicago, et al, had cause the bolts to completely back off and fall out hence allowing the exhaust flange and exhaust pipe to move back about a 1/2 inch from the turbo - most of the gap being at the bottom where it was harder to see. Apparently, as it was explained to me, when you decelerate the waste-gate purges the turbo of unwanted air by channeling it out the exhaust. With the higher exhaust gas pressure and the gap between the flange and the turbo, it created a situation like blowing through old style whistle to create a sound. Guess the truck was only trying to get my attention. Anyway two bolts and 15 minutes later the mechanic had "silenced" my truck! (Not that you can ever silence a Cummins 5.9) I feel pretty stupid not finding the source of the noise, but in my defense, the flange gap was mostly visible from underneath the truck, and further it was pretty much impossible create the noise from inside the cab and simultaneously be under the hood to see where it was coming from.. I am now faced with another possible challenge that I would appreciate any thoughts you guys might have. My 2000, 4wd, auto, 3500 now has 340,000 miles on it. I have owned the truck from about 200,000 miles. I have pretty much babied it since I owned it. (I don't think it has ever seen 3000 rpms) I do feel, however, especially on this last trip, that it has lost some of its towing power. The stock turbo appears to have no shaft wear movement and the truck used only two quarts of oil for the entire 5000 mile trip. (Pretty good huh, for an old horse?) An associate has offered me a set of slightly used (approx. 500 miles) DPT(?) +75 injectors for my truck for $500. I looked it up and the retail for the injectors was approximately $800. Would this be a reasonable investment for me to make on the truck? Is the price for the injectors fair? Would the stock turbo provide adequate boost to take advantage of the larger than stock injectors? Some forum responders have commented that my existing turbo boost seems a bit low (See comments in other replies of the 2nd Gen forum), but I understand that turbos for auto, 4wd, one ton Rams were set up originally a bit lower that stick and 2wd units. In any case, will I need to replace my stock Holset HX35(?) turbo, and if so, with what? Finally some local guys have suggested that adding performance items to a 340K motor is a waste of money - but the 5.9 does seem to be still running OK. Any thoughts?? Thanks for all your help.

I finally got home with the intermittent Brake and ABS dash lights keeping me awake, off and on, for the last 1000 miles. Haven't noticed the "Boom" now for some time on startup. Time now to address the brake warning light issues. It was recommended that I replace the front wheel ABS (Speed?) sensors to see if this fixes the problem. As the sensors are about $10 each on Ebay, I guess this means that I should simply replace BOTH sensors to try and fix the warning light issue this way??? If this doesn't permanently fix the problem, any suggestions on what I should do next?? I also plan to go to my local Oreilly's and have them do an OBDII code read for me. Maybe this will give me some additional info on the brake light issue.

If you ever figure out the "boom", please let me know. After a 150 miles of no dash warning lights, the ABS and Brake lights have come back on. When I start up truck, I get a ,"check brakes" notification for about two seconds, then it turns off. No "Check Engine" light while driving. I appreciate the help.

My speedometer appears to work fine. Regarding "boom" on startup, I am not aware of any under the hood after market additions on the truck. I certainly have not added any. Further, the boom has been there since I bought the truck. The only times I have not heard it (I recall) is when the ABS and Brake lights have come on. I plan to limp home and run the OBDII checks and sensor replacements you have suggested. Thanks.

Thanks for the possible solutions. After driving 50 miles the ABS and Brake lights turned off. Further, when I started the truck after a lunch stop l again heard the under the hood "boom" which had been missing all the time the ABS and Brake lights were on. (I am not sure if they are related), maybe you can educate me on the boom. In any case unless the brakes get worse, they are not great at stopping, I will probably try to limp home where I have more resources. Thanks again.

( 2000 Ram 1 tn 4wd diesel auto, 340000 miles) Now that I got my fuel pressure issue solved, my brakes have decided to act up. They have been "spongy" and not strong stoppers for about 200 miles. I was going to wait till I got home to address the problem. Now however the Brake and ABS dash lights have come on permanently when driving. I also do not hear the semi loud "boom" I always heard in the past when turning the key on. I am aware of the sensor on the rear differential, but is this the kind of symptom that a failed sensor would cause? Also is there not a 6 pin brake switch somewhere that occasionally fails. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. Booster, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, etc. ????

OK guys, thanks for all the suggestions. This week when I have a bit of time, I will check the turbo for play and the harmonic balancer. I didn't notice the fenders being close to any boots and I did not notice any distorted rubber mushed or sticking out as a result of oil contamination. While I don't have the crankcase vent mod, my blowby is routed down from the canister to the back of the engine underneath. As I don't take the truck off-road, I don't see any extreme grades so this setup has worked for me. Please keep in mind however that I ONLY hear the noise as the rpms DROP after taking my foot off the accelerator. Any suggestions that would create a noiseother than during this time is not likely to be my problem. Regarding the turbo, when I get a few dollars together, I was planing on changing out both the turbo and injectors. I am not trying to produce a drag truck, but would like a bit more torque/horsepower when pulling a loaded car trailer up a 5 mile 6% grade in the Rocky Mountains. I was thinking something like +75-100 Hp injectors, and a new turbo. I some time ago I overhauled the tranny to twin disc, so I was not planning on changing anything there - maybe adding a trans temp sender. Does any of you have a turbo/injector recommendation which meets my goals and has been reliable for you.

Lots of replies about wheel bearings. Don't think that is my problem. Went to a steep hill, put it in neutral and coasted down hill, and no noise what so ever. Then drove back up hill accelerating - then took foot off pedal, got noise until rpms dropped. Checked exhaust don't hear or see any leak. Started truck and left in park. Revved it up to 3000 rpm and then quickly took foot off accelerator. I could hear the noise but interestingly, not nearly as loud as when driving down road and did same thing. I don't have knobby tires, use truck exclusively for towing cars on highways. This started up about two weeks ago and I have not messed with tires, exhaust, or anything that I can think of around or shortly before that time. Did put a set of A column gauges (fuel pressure, exhaust temp, and boost) about a month ago. Not sure this is related but driving down flat highways at 45 mph my boost shows practically nothing (maybe 2 lbs.) When I accelerate from a start at a stop light with no load maybe the gauge goes to 6 lbs. Pulling trailer and full sized car at 55 mph up long incline, never have seen more than about 16 lbs. As far as I know (bought truck used) I am running stock turbo and injectors. Do these numbers seem correct for a truck with 335,000 miles, uses no oil and has no known driving issues. Could I be losing my turbo resulting in the noise? I am pretty sure that the noise is engine or tranny related, it just doesn't sound like anything else, especially as I don't get it except when I am decelerating. Thanks guys for at least trying to diagnose my problem. Sorry, forgot to mention. No exhaust brake. Can't get noise with any amount of "coasting" Only loud and persistent when driving and let up on accelerator. Like decelerating for a stop light or slowing down while accelerating when an idiot pulls out in front of me. at 25 mph. My truck is normally pretty loud from exhaust noise so I guess it could be there when I am accelerating. But I don't think so. When I take my foot off accelerator on every occasion, I hear noise. The harder I was accelerating (higher rpms) the louder the noise. I may need to drive the truck again to the West Coast soon to pick up an old TBird (I restore them) and don't want to start out with a "ticking time bomb". Regards All.

If its not one thing its another. With the help of you guys finally got the obvious issues resolved with my white beast. Now however about a week ago the truck started producing a new quite loud sound when I let up on the accelerator. Hard to reproduce in letters but sort of a "whirrr" or "rurrr" noise that starts the moment I take my foot off of the fuel pedal and continues until the rpms drop. The harder I am accelerating when I release the pedal, the louder it is. I do not hear it when I am accelerating but at that time the exhaust noise may be covering up the sound. I don't notice any driving issues (truck seems to be running normally) and no check engine light, so can't report any consequences of the noise. The noise starts up loud and trails off as truck coasts slower, ceasing when the rpms bottom out. Can't really say if it is coming from 5.9 or 47RE. Don't want to be driving the truck if this is the sign of a bigger problem as I have had to already replace one VP44. Any thoughts or suggestions? Any tests or checks I should undertake of the engine or tranny to diagnose my issue. It is a bit unnerving to drive in the city and hear this noise every time between traffic lights. Thanks again for any help.