MRSNAFU

Yeah I'm not THAT afraid of the 53 block. For me it's more that I WANT the P-Pump and if the 12 valve I have is probably stronger any way why not use it too. I know the VP really isn't that bad either but it's just not what I want. I like the fact that I can tinker with the pump and directly affect power and fuel economy. With the VP I could just buy a box and plug it in and get the same result with the push of a button but.... what fun is that. :lol:It for me is the same with the 47RH versus the 47RE. I just want less computer making decisions for me. I won't get rid of the ABS because I have seen first hand how much safer it can be. I want to be able to play but safety is safety! ABS WORKS.

Yeah I am not sure either but, it seems like everyone is afraid of the 53 block so it's seems to be hard to sell. I figure IN the truck maybe whoever buys it won't be aware of their reputation. I know that sounds like I'm trying to pull a fast one on someone but, it's NOT CRACKED and even though they have a reputation the vast majority of them are JUST FINE! After sleeping on it I THINK I will need to get another 98.5 PCM. I need one in the 98.5 to run the gauges even though it will be a 12 valve. I will also need a 98.5 PCM in the 96 truck to make the 47RE trans shift even if I pull the 3 wire trick I read about to run a VP44. I think I'm right??? If so that may have made my decision for me. I am not willing to put too much money out to make the 96 truck come to life.

Thanks mopar1973man. So if I understand whats happening here correctly, I should be able to just swap all sensors,sending units and computers and I should be in good shape on both trucks. Do you know if the pin outs are the same on the computers from 96 to 98.5? I sure don't want to smoke one. I hope they are then all I should have to do would be add the wires to the sensors on the 24 Valve and for the 47RE in the 96. Right? No vineyardmh62598, I think you missunderstood the plan. I am going to use the 12 valve and the 47RH in the truck I plan to keep. That truck is the 98.5 QCSB 4X4 2500. I really don't need this heavy duty of a truck very often, the heaviest thing I usually haul is a 230 pound dirt bike and I prefer short beds. Lol The 24 valve (with the 53 block) and the 47RE will be in the 96 ECLB 3500 4X4 with a 10 ft flat bed and a Tommy gate. No I'm not sure it will be worth the work but I hope to sell it when I'm done to re-coupe some of the money I have in this project. I have had a 53 block before and had ZERO problems with the truck. I did some work on a friends truck with a problem VP and I just don't want to deal with that again. If I do build the 96 back up (which I probably will) I want to do it right. I don't want to make it a piece of junk for the next guy I just want to recover some cash. At this point I have 5 grand in both trucks. I figure I need about 1K or a little bit more for tires. (I plan to get BFG All Terrains 315/75r16 and I already have the rims I want.) Then I figure about another grand for redoing the interior and other misc things like a 2000 sport grille with a bumper I plan to fab myself. If I can make this a good running truck and get close to the 5K I will be happy. I know many people are afraid of the 53 block but a good running rust free Cummins powered truck should be worth at least close to 5K shouldn't it? If not maybe it will get stuffed into an old rat rod or rock crawler. Lol Thanks rancherman, I am good on the cab I live in Arizona so everything I am working with is completely rust free and I already had the cab that will end up on the 98.5 because the original plan was to change the cab on the 96 to get the back doors. The 98.5 was just a great deal I lucked into.

What do you mean CCD? The general story here is, I have the two trucks, the one I started with is a 96 3500 EC 4X4 5 speed with a 10 ft flat bed. I traded the NV4500 for a 47RH and all the fixin's. The one I plan to build for me is a 98.5 QCSB 4X4 that I bought wrecked. The guy I got it from slid sideways off the side of the road into a tree. This pushed the drivers side A pillar in all the way to the frame and also bent the left lower control arm (or whatever you call it). The frame is not bent, I measured it every which way I could. It has a 24 Valve (with a 53 block) and a 47RE. I want this truck as reliable as possible and I prefer it to be as mechanical as possible (Cummins with a P-Pump) to but I still want an auto trans.(47RH) I drive in too much heavy traffic to enjoy a clutch with a bad knee. My Plan for the dually is to put it together with the left overs and sell it (if I can get 5K for it I'll have my truck free) or trade it for an off road toy like maybe a Jeep. I don't want to sacrifice anything from the 98 to get the 96 running. I am good at wiring but don't want do more work than I need to. I am not sure what the 96 would have even had a PCM for? I also don't know what it would take to make the shift? I planned on swapping the computers anyway but the gauges on both trucks worries me. I hadn't thought of that.

Hello all, so here's the deal. I'm building my dream truck out of basically two trucks. What I will have left will be a 96 3500 roller and a 98.5 24 valve with a 47RE behind it. Does anyone know what kind of wiring problems I will have, to make it run and shift? I do have the 98.5 computer. Is the main harness at least close to the same or, will I have to make a copy of the 98.5 harness? I do have it but I plan on using it in the 98.5 truck, which I plan to keep.The 96 started out life with an NV4500.

Thanks again for all the thought provoking ideas to everyone who gave me any input.With that being said… I WON!!!! :thumb1:WooHoo What I finally found was a partially plugged pre cat. My theory on what was actually happening is #4 and #5 were not able to expel exhaust gas and therefore were running rich. This caused the computer to lean the whole bank then #6 would lean misfire. I guess the length of the exhaust manifold must have been the difference. It runs better than ever and I finally get to tell my friend to get it out of my driveway.

Ok so first of all, Thanks for the ideas guys. I am running the Ranger ECM and it has a coil pack (1 coil with 6 high tension posts) I would like to do a leak down test but don't have the tester and all I have for a scanner is the ole Snap On red brick MT2500 and a code reader. Can't justify spending the cash on a new one because I don't bend wrenches for a living anymore. Since I was here last I have done the following. Checked fuel pressure. 62 psi spec is 60 to 65 psi Changed the fuel filter. Added seafoam to the fuel tank. Added Marvel Mistery oil to the crank case. Used GM engine top end cleaner, (I've had GREAT luck with this in the passed) Added 91 octane fuel. Driven the truck 50 miles, with absolutely no success. I do notice it pinging when I drive it. I am able to make the light come on every time within a quarter mile. If I floor it it shifts at 5k rpm then I count to 3 and there it is EVERY time. I drove it to work babying it like crazy and made it 12 miles before it came on. While sitting here racking my brain I keep thinking LEAN misfire!!!! I just went outside and pulled cyl #5 & #6 plugs. #5 is dark with a slight black soot look to it (kinda rich) #6 is white. I'm right it's lean! I haven't been able to find any vacuum leaks but wtf else could it be? I think I am going to go and get a plug 2 steps colder and see if that works but even if it does why is it lean???? Any ideas ? I WILL BEAT THIS TRUCK!!!!!!!!:banghead:

Hello all, I’m a new member here. I got some great help on another project from mopar1973man (thanks again brother) on another forum and figured I'd come over and try to get help on this nightmare.I will try to keep it short and sweet. I am working on a 2006 base model Ranger 4x2 with a 3.0 L auto for a friend. After more low compression problems than any vehicle should have in a lifetime ( bad valve seats), we have just replaced the engine AGAIN. The replacement is from an ’06 Taurus. I finished the install and took it on a 15 mile test ride. 1 mile from home the check engine light came on. Cyl. 6 misfire.Checked compression on a couple of cylinders obviously #6 included and they were at 160 PSI.The replacement engine was pretty complete so I have a few test parts.I swapped #4 and #6 spark plugs. No change, it’s not the plug.I replaced the plug wire. No change, not the wire.I installed the Taurus ignition coil. No change, not the coil.I replaced the entire set of injectors with the set from Taurus, with the thought that the flow rate could be different but if they all match it should still run good. No change, injectors are OK.I also swapped the crank and cam sensors and last but not least I tried seafoam in the fuel and oil with the thought maybe the valves in #6 could be sticking. Still get the light EVERY time.I was a line tech mostly at dealerships for about 25 years so I’d like to think I have a good idea what I’m doing but, I don’t have access to much tech info and don’t have a good scanner anymore. ( Stupid thieves) That being said, I despise just swapping parts without knowing they are bad before I replace them but I need to get this thing back on the road and you do with what you have right?Their isn’t much left that I can think of that could cause a misfire. I don’t want to condemn the computer without absolutely knowing but what else could I have missed?Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for any help or ideas you may have.