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This article is being put together to help walk you through the fairly simple steps of replacing the grommets at the fuel return t and the washers on the banjo bolt at the back of the head. Symptoms that lead me to start changing these parts were... -Hard starts with the nose of the truck pointed up hill after 4+ hours -Loss of prime -Longer cranking of the engine -Point nose down hill the truck would fire up no problems. Starting with the T on the fuel return lines. The easiest way to locate this T is to find your return banjo on the VP44 (looking down at it, it's the one of the left) and follow that hard line towards the back of the engine. Eventually you will find a brass T with one line coming down from the back of the head (we'll cover that later) and another line going down towards to the fuel tank. You can use the Part number lookup tool to find the Part Numbers The following diagrams might help as well. Part #3 in this diagram Part #29 from this diagram. You'll be replacing the grommets that are #32 in this diagram. It'll look like this You'll need a 16mm wrench to get the caps off. It's easiest to get all 3 loose to the point where you can unscrew them by hand, that way you avoid the T from spinning. Once off, you can twist the T to let the fuel lines slide out. The end of the fuel lines will have a belled or flared end, like a trumpet or other brass instrument. It will look like this once out. Old grommets on top, new on bottoms. One thing of note here, the old grommets didn't look that bad. If I wasn't having fuel issues I don't think I would've changed them so keep that in mind. At the time of this article the cheapest I could find these grommets was from Geno's located HERE part #3905351 From here it'd be a good idea to clean things up a bit with a scotch bright pad or something similar. I cleaned the fuel T and the fuel lines. I sprayed the fuel T with brake cleaner and then dried it off with compressed air. Re-assembly is the same as taking it apart. Just get the nuts on there loosely at first until all 3 nuts are on the fuel T and then tighten them down equally as you'll see once things get tighter the fuel T will want to move. Tighten the nuts down so they are firmly snug, but not over tightened. Otherwise the nut will just keep compressing the grommet to the point it's ineffective. It helped me to disconnect the oil dipstick and other connectors that are in the area to free up room for wrench operation. **************************************************************************************** Next, the washers on the banjo bolt at the back of the head are also culprits which can cause hard starts and loss of prime and if you're experiencing the issues stated before, you might as well replace them. In this diagram the banjo you want it #2 and the washers you'll replace are #4 &#5 which are the same even though listed differently. **Obviously with a cold engine** The best way to tackle this job is to get some thick moving blankets and lay them on top of the engine bay and get ready to crawl! While laying on top of the engine, reach around the back of the engine on the left side. You'll be looking (read:feeling) for this. Using a 17mm wrench you can get the banjo off. Remember that righty tighty lefty loosey will be backwards in this instance! You don't want to snap off the banjo in the head!! Once out, clean up things to help with re-installation. Here is the banjo removed with old washers on the left and new on the right. I got the washers from my local dodge dealership part #05016555AB but you can also get them from Genos HERE Replacement is straight forward. Just make sure that you get banjo washers on both ends of the banjo. Like this With final installation make sure that you get the banjo bolt tight, but again DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! The bolts are somewhat fragile and could/will snap off if tightened too much.