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So, I have been running my compound setup for 3 weeks now, and I am impressed on all levels. For 1500$, I have instant boost, 24 MPG, and even when I fuel it like a dragster, The highest EGT I can get is 1280*. Because of my awesome experience, I have decided to share the entire installation and give a few tips for anyone who wants to go this way. The kit I purchased is the Evilfab525 kit, here is the website link : http://www.evilfabperformance.com/shop To start this project I inventoried all of the pieces in the kit, verified the S366 T4 turbo was clean and operational, and then set out on disassembly. Problems encountered here - The factory downpipe / 5 bolt manifold had a bolt already broken off, and another one broke on me as well. Repair involved a drill press, tap and die kit, lots of lubricant, and patience. So moving on, the T3 HX35 uses 4 studs, two on manifold and two on turbine housing. Trash them! This kit requires inverting the exhaust manifold, so the HX35 will be 180* and will require restudding / drilling out threads as required. The instructions provided very good info on this, and the fabricator Riley can answer any questions quickly before you get into trouble. Also you will need to knock out the rear oil drain freeze plug, and chopsaw your HX35 drain pipe for the S366 Drain. Read the instructions on this part carefully! After you have your length of drain tube, here's a tip: you should have 2.5- 3.5 inches of straight pipe. take electrical tape and tape the end you intend to tap into the block, marking a depth of 1 - 1.25 inches. There is nothing to limit the depth, and you don't want to hammer the tube all the way into the oil pan. Also a 1" or 15/16" deep socket slides over the other end nicely and gives you a part to hammer on without damaging the tube. After getting your oil drain prepped, get the hacksaw out and cut off the exhaust pipe about 24 inches forward of the transmission cross member, this gives you room to mock everything up. I cut mine right where the 3.5" down pipe expanded to 4". Tip # 2: go buy 1 or 2, 4" exhaust clamps (if you already have a 4" system) and if you are running a magnaflow system that has a 3.5 - 4 inch downpipe, you will need about 16 inches of 4" pipe to splice to your exhaust, unless you plan a new exhaust at the same time. This is where I started mocking up the kit. Problem #1 the waste gate actuator was in the way. Remove the actuator and with great finesse and care, Grind off the mount from the compressor housing. Problem #2, The heater pipe has a mount which bolts to the exhaust manifold. This does not fit with the manifold inverted.Its also in the way of the hot pipe. You have to options: Delete the pipe and replace with rubber hose, or Cut the mounting tab off. I cut the tab off, because I was being cheap. Now its time to start assembly. I fabricated a bracket to hold the waste gate actuator from 16 gauge plate steel from home cheapo. I used a piece of thin cardboard to template the T3 Bolt pattern, and measured the distance from the flat surface of the actuator mount on the comp housing, to the gate arm. using that measurement, I utilized a Drill press, Sawzall, Bench Vice, and Ball peen hammer to make my bracket. For rigidity, I started by bending the plate 90* in half, and then started on it with the sawzall. After I got it shaped right, I used my little mig welder to put a bead in the corner for extra strength. a bolt works just fine too. you will have to notch your bracket to give clearance for the HX35 oil drain. I painted it with black header paint to look nice and put it off to the side.