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Showing results for tags 'scangauge'.
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Evening Gals and Gents, Having Issues with my Scangauge. It doesn't report load(LOD) correctly. It's showing 0 LOD at idle. This results in 0.0 GPH at idle. I have contacted Scangauge and am currently emailing with them to hopefully find the problem. For those of you with a Scangauge what do you show for GPH and LOD at idle? How is LOAD calculated? I can even see 0 LOD when TPS is greater than 0. I found this out while coasting downhill in neutral and slowly pressing throtle down. I do have codes stored: 0622, 0743, 1595, 1765 I believe most of those codes were related to the Mystery Switch Lockup control Other Known Problems are Alternator VAC to high(cycles between 0.065-0.156 at idle) Thanks! Currently running a 2002 Ram Cummins 2500 Quad Cab Automatic. Mostly stock except RP-100 and edge programmer.
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Has anyone else had trouble with their display showing black boxes where the letter or number should be: Mine does this intermittently. If I unplug it and plug it back in, the display returns to normal. Also, some of the time it doesn't connect automatically with the truck. The gauges show no data. I have to unplug it and plug it back in for it to connect. Sometimes I have to do this more than once. Most of the time it works perfectly but these two problems are annoying. I emailed Linear Logic and they said to send it in for repair. I just want to make sure these aren't common glitches that aren't going to go away with repair. Not bad average mileage. Must be the 2 stroke oil.
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I did some more measuring and testing for the MPG crowd. Before I start I will say that I just verified my SGII and its right close to being on the money (off by 0.2 gallons). I'll assume that a slight error between the ScanGauge and the fuel pump. Now I my truck conditions are Edge set for 5x3, IAT fooled to 143*F, Engine coolant varied from 188*F to 197*F, winter fronts still on. Actual weather was high of 65*F (actual IAT was ~90-105*F) Now since I was on I-84 down in southern Idaho today I figure I open the beast up and let it fly low for once. So I set the cruise for 75 MPH and reset the current MPG counter and measure for about 20 miles of highway. I was pulling roughly ~13 MPG. Then after shopping in Nampa, ID and got back on the same stretch of highway again and set my cruise this time for 65 MPH then reset the ScanGauge II again and measured about 20 miles of highway again. I turned out ~18 MPG. Then even with all the playing driving fast and slower I still pulled in the yard with a total of 22 MPG. So from this rough measurement I found that roughly for every 10 MPH above 55 MPH I lose roughly 5 MPG. This is calculated numbers here. According to Google Maps its 300 miles round trip what I drove. Time to travel distance 300 miles / 55 MPH = 5.4 Hours 300 miles / 65 MPH = 4.6 Hours (0.8 hours less than 55 MPH) 300 miles / 75 MPH = 4.0 Hours (0.6 hours less than 65 MPH, 1.4 Hours less than 55 MPH) Amount of fuel consumed 300 miles / 21 MPG = 14.2 Gallons (@ 55 MPH - not a true 55 MPH because of testing) 300 miles / 18 MPG = 16.6 Gallons (@ 65 MPH) 300 miles / 13 MPG = 23.0 Gallons (@ 75 MPH) Cost difference @ $4.019 Gallon (which I paied for) 14.2 Gallons x $4.019 = $57.06 16.6 Gallons x $4.019 = $66.71 ($9.65 more than 55 MPH) 23.0 Gallons x $4.019 = $92.43 ($25.72 more that 65 MPH, $35.41 more than 55 MPH) Another tidbit. I get the same MPG's towing my RV at 55 MPH than I do driving empty at 75 MPH. Also the fuel consumption rate at 75 MPH is just about the same as climibng a 5% to 6% grade at 55 MPH. This shows that amount of rolling resistance and wind drag differences between 55 and 75 MPH.
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- distance
- drag coefficient
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I know alot of folks have temp fluctuation but I think it usually swings low instead of high. I had this trouble a few months ago and fixed it with a new water pump but its back again. I just had the radiator cleaned and rodded but it hardly had anything in it. Its got another new water pump and I have ran two different radiator caps. I have 3 different t-stats and they all fluctuate the same, two are 190 from napa and one is a cummins 180. I generally see swings from 190-203 or so, usually cruising it stays around 190-194 but will jump up to 197-199 for a second then back down. That doesent bother me as im reading those temps from the ultra-gauge and I think those are fine but when im getting on the interstate or accelerating it gets up to 203 or so and stays there for a few seconds on both the ultra-gauge and the dash gauge. I took it to the radiator guy yesterday and he put some kind of tester on it that is supposed to change colors if there is carbon dioxide present and it didnt change so im hoping its not the headgasket. When I come to a stop or so it goes back to 190 and pretty much stays there or gets cooler so i dont think its the fan clutch. Also after it idles for 10 minutes or so and I turn it off the fan clutch will spin for a few seconds after I turn the engine off but if I get off the highway and let the egts cool to 300 then turn the engine off the fan will stop just about as fast as the motor. I dont think I could put any kind of loaded trailer on this truck or it would probably overheat. Im lost here and just shy of pulling the head.:banghead:
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- ect sensor
- engine temperature
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