98whitelightnin

Every diesel I have ever had looked like it smoked in other cars headights at night.

Got the new slave installed and it shifts better. Going into 1 or 2 from a stop is alot easier now and with the rear tires off the ground and the clutch pedal held to the floor, the tires barely move. The pedal is harder to press now and the clutch engages at the very top of the pedal. If I didnt get it bled good enough, would it make the pedal harder to push? I feel like i bled it real good but im paranoid since this is y first one

This new slave has a bleeder, like a brake caliper. Do I need to remove the entire setup from the truck to bleed it of do yall think I can get all the air out with it still on the truck? Would anyone with an nv4500 and dd clutch be willing to do me and favor? Jack the rear end of your truck off the ground and with the truck idling, hold the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, go through the gears and tell me if the tires spin at all. Do they spin when you initially go into gear? Do they spin the entire time its in gear? Do they stay completely still?

SB said they have had to use that jeep slave on a few of their triple disk clutches but that i shouldnt have to on a dd. I got the feeling that ive been blown off and they want nothing to do with me or helping me at this point. I had every intention of going with valair again but was told that sb was better by a friend that installed and ran both.

I may have figured out the issue with my truck not wanting to shift. SB has a hydraulic testing procedure that states to remove the slave cylinder and put a steering wheel puller in its place. Tighten puller down as far as you can with fingers and then tighten another 7/8” with ratchet. I jack the rear end off the ground and do this and the tires spin while in gear, as do they with the slave installed and pushing the clutch pedal to the floor. Go in another 3/8 of an inch for a total of 1 1/4” deep, and the tires do not spin. I get a small bump of an inch or so when initially going into gear but that’s it. To remedy this I ordered an adjustable slave rod but Ryan at SB says the extra length of that rod will just cause the slave to push back in on itself and not actually allow for more slave rod travel, this would have been nice to know before ordering but getting anyone to answer the phone has been tough lately. He gave me a dorman part number CS360047, which is a metal slave for a mid 90’s Jeep Wrangler. He said that the rod for that slave is actually shorter than their slave but it it’s got a longer stroke and will push it out to the 1 1/4” that I need. I’ve ordered that and it along with the adjustable rod will be here tomorrow. Hopefully I can finally get this thing shifting as it should, I’m tired of being under it daily trying new remedy’s that don’t work.

Standard transmission and gear on ft worth Tx. Really a good group up there and they seem to want to help me but havent got it fixed yet. I called sb a few weeks ago and left a message but never received a return call.

The installers had the truck for a week a few weeks ago and instead of dropping the trans and seeing what the problem was, they put two new sets of hydro's in it. I followed sb hydro testing procedure and ruled out hydro issues before I too it back to them. Now im playing the waiting game. This was the best shifting nv4500 I'd ever driven before this clutch went in.

I feel the same way and this is the reason I do everything on my truck myself, but I just didnt have it in me or my back to tackle this job alone. Maybe we should both head to Idaho and assist Mike in doing the jobs correctly.

Close to two months. The sbdd organic doesnt fully disengage and the truck lurches when im at a stop and trying to get it into gear. Hard shifting and hard on synchro's

Im still going through the same issues, no one wants to pull the trans for free to fix an issue since install.

Welcome aboard

Torque king site says to put a light film of tacky grease on the bearing retainer. This is what I’m thinking my installer didn’t do and somehow it’s binding.

Does the input shaft bearing retainer need to be greased or maybe graphite lube?

I was informed that the adjustable rod on SB's hydros is only for pedal placement, nothing at all to do with how far the slave moves the throwout bearing. They guys at Blumenthal recommend 5 qts in the nv4500, I ran 7 with fast coolers.

There is definitely a problem with it disengaging and I don’t have to jack up the rear end to notice it. I haven’t had any slipping yet, clutch holds the power great. Sometimes right after changing gears during a hard acceleration, it seems like I can feel one of the disks contacting late. I believe it was an install error and they should have greased something they didn’t. I installed a valair dd 6 or 7 years ago it never had any issues with it, even with off the shelf parts store hydros. I never ever have anyone else work on my truck for this very reason but I just did not have it in me to pull this trans at this point in time.