New Southbend Dual Disc Not Disengaging

[6cyl$$pit]

So the other week I installed one of Southbend's street dual discs, along with an upgraded input shaft and upgraded southbend hydros. I noticed that it was very hard to get into gear, and yes I have the pedal adjusted above the brake about 1"and I understand its a heavy dual disc. Figured it just needed to drive it a bit and put a  couple miles on it. Long story short I needed to replace my transfer case tailshaft seal. Then when pulling my truck out of the garage I noticed that when trying to put it in reverse the truck was moving slightly backwards, telling me that the clutch is clearly dragging.

 

My first attempt to solve this issue was to call Southbend this was what they had me do.

First I measured the free play of the clutch fork till it bottomed out against the clutch, this was 5/8" measured to the outside of the bellhousing. According to southbend this is what is should measure. To me this means that my fork, throwout bearing, pivot ball (with washer removed) and pressure plate are all in the correct relation to one another.

Since this was correct I moved on to the next step, using a puller to actuate the clutch. Ryan (Southbend guy) said this was to rule out bad hydros. So I used an H bar style puller bolted in place of the slave, ran it against finger tight then went in 7/8" more. Apparently this is how much the slave should move the fork. No dice. Still hard to get into gear and still moved the truck when trying to get it in gear. Next Ryan had me run it in more for a total of 1.25" of actuation from finger tight, much better but I could still tell it wasn't the best and the truck still moved slightly, albeit better but still not right. I suppose Ryan didn't want to have to tell me that the clutch was junk so he said put about 500 miles on it and call him back. He warned me not to force it into gear, which I knew was just eating my synchros alive, but still suggested I drive it anyways, while magically not being hard on the trans. Which in the current state more or less needs to be moving or forced into gear. A few times I even put the transfer case in neutral then the trans in gear, which obviously it went in great. At this point I only had 15 miles on the clutch. Truck has 70K original miles not trying to put another equivalent 200k on my trans from my synchros trying to move my truck. So moving the "slave" another 3/8" past the correct point will equate to 500 miles of wear? Not buying it. 

 

So that left me to see if anyone could point me in the right direction. I think one of the discs must be tweaked and is still dragging, couldn't be sure though. Ryan said after 500 miles if it still has problems he will make me hydros to actuate it further, but clearly thats a band-aid solution, I'm not into doing stuff like that. Any help is appreciated, truck isn't my daily and gets parked most of the winter anyway but I would love to have the clutch working correctly. Thanks in advance.